Pete M

The STS are an all-terrain and excel in those areas where all-terrains excel; namely sand, snow, pavement, etc. Stay away from the mud and the sidewalls don't have much protection from rocks. I have a set of baby 29 inchers on my 86 that use to be on my sister's TJ.

If I remember this right, when a clutch pedal does that (pushing slowly does little, mashing or pumping makes it work normal) it seems to be a bad master.

Cooling is always a concern with anything bigger than the 4.0L. If it was going into my rig I'd get an engine with aluminum heads (or even an aluminum block if I could afford it) to keep the weight down and it MUST have fuel injection. Carbs just ain't my thing. But then my plans are for a stroker 4.0. Bolts in and makes good power. :D

Undoing those bolts would still have opened the hood.

Don't remember. Where ever the instructions said to. :dunno:

Short answer: no. But if you want 5 more gallons, it's easy to strap on a military jerry can. :D

The fan is old, the wiring is old. Current draw goes up as age and corrosion sets in. The one in my 88 used to dim the lights a bit when you turn on the blower. Blower doesn't work any more though, so problem solved. :D

Maybe there's an add-on out there somewhere I can, um, add on to the site. :dunno:

I was recently informed that I'll be in Georgia for Christmas this year. :dunno: 95-96 boosters are the ones you want. For booster tips, see this link: http://www.madxj.com/MADXJ/technical/technicalfiles/ARbrakeBoosterUpgrade/BrakeBoosterUpgrade.htm I found it hard to find pre-made brake lines in the store to match the new parts, so I bought bulk line from Advanced Auto and borrowed a double-flare tool and used all the fittings that came with the junkyard parts. Now's a great time to redo all the lines in your truck. Be repared to break stuff and replace more than you originally intended. I snapped off a bleeder nipple in my rear axle and suddenly had to take apart the guts of the drum to replace the cylinder inside. :( Overall it went fairly smoothly but took quite a while for me to do it all since there's so much involved in replacing just about everything associated with the braking system. But I should have a truck that stops better than new when I'm done. :D Oh, and if I didn't mention it earlier, I got a mid 90s Dakota rubber line for the rear.

"Except" I love those brackets! Very creative! :D

Nah, it stalled for a bit due to sudden increases in class work and/or decreases in outside temperature. Neither of those excuses can apply tonight though, so I hope to get the clutch line together and maybe figure out what's up with the brake lights.

4.5" on stock arms? That's kinda scary. :hmm:

Image Not Found More here: http://www.race-dezert.com/forum/showthread.php?t=13908

My guess is that the space behind the bumper was empty and some engineer found a use for it by putting the vacuum canister there. :D

New MTRs may be overpriced, but I picked up my set of used 31s for a song. :D

The main leafs went easily with just a schmuck highspeed steel bit and some oil. The arched lower leafs killed that same bit instantly and I had to resort to the expensive bits I have. Not sure what they're made of. :hmm: Cobalt I think. It was like a hundred for the set of 29 bits.

Maybe that site doesn't allow hotlinking of pics? Don't forget that you need a in back.

I see a "Notify me when a reply is posted" choice in the list below where I'm currently typing this. Is that what you're looking for?

Rust you see above the rear wheels is usually NOT surface rust. Our trucks generally rust from the inside-out in that location. There's a ledge inside the fender right above the tire and it collects dirt over time. This dirt attracts and holds moisture (at least that's what happens in locations that have moisture like here in Michigan) and rust-out is inevitable. :(

There are no factory 3.73 MJs until someone can prove to me otherwise. 3.73s were found in ZJs and a few XJs with the tow package.

Sure, I imagine that would work fine. Only way to know for sure is to try it though. All packs are not created equal since any given explorer might have sagging ones.

Amen! If only everyone could go out and quickly snap pics of what they're talking about. Life would be soooo much easier. CW could stand to figure out how to make them a tad smaller, but now I'm just splitting hairs. :D

The inspection plate is a thin piece of metal that bolts to the block and bolts to the bellhousing. There are bolts going towards the front of the truck, and bolt that go towards the rear of the truck. Little bitty annoying screws that are easily hidden by oily gunk and dirt. Ask me how I know... :roll:

I added an aftermarket tach to my 88 years ago. It was a simple setup. I think it was just a power, ground, and feed to the coil. The instructions came with the tach.

Eh, regardless, I'm moving this to the pub. Definitely not tech. :D