Pete M

The t-case is mechanically shifted, but if the assembly underneath the trucks is loose, then I guess it is possible that you might be stuck in 4wd. Not likely, but technically possible. If I remember right, in older MJs, the light is tripped by a switch in the engine compartment that goes on when vacuum is applied. The little switch could be stuck too.

Doesn't really matter. 95+ will have the external slave which is better, but in your case it seems it's more important that the trans be affordable rather than the best-of-the-best. This site should help with a lot of what's involved with bolting in an AX-15: http://www.jeeptech.com/convtrans/ax15swap.html Other pointers are to replace those top 2 bellhousing bolts with long studs. It will help with guiding the trans in and then you can use regular ol' nuts to secure. Try to get EVERYTHING that comes with the trans and t-case. That includes the shifter, the bellhousing, and everything inside the bellhousing. Try to buy the trans ans t-case together. This eliminates any chance of them not going to gether properly and can usually be cheaper than buying separate A search here might bring up more pointers I'm forgetting.

Sure. :D

car-part.com might be helpful to you.

Ohhh, I though you meant you bled the one master 3 times. Dang I'm stumped then. :hmm:

But I bet YJ/XJ/MJ owners would eat it up. :D

Could be a faulty master. It's happened before. :(

Some of us go wheeling with a C02 tank and have zero problems reseating a bead by removing the air stem innards and using an air gun (flows more volume than a regular tire inflater). But on the other hand, fire is cool. :D

Ouch!

It might look better with square headlights too. :roll:

Only 2 door XJ seats fold forwards.

Oh wow.... :roll:

Damn. I had a sweet pic of inflating a swamper with fire, but it went bye-bye with the harddrive of my laptop. :( Damn.

:needpics:

:hateputers:

It is not a direct swap. The 4.3L is a 90* V-block and the 2.8L and 3.4L are 60* V-blocks. They use completely different parts and bolt-ons (trans/exhaust/mounts/etc). It has certainly been done before though and the 4.3L puts out good power. See advanceadapters.com for what you would need for a 4.3L.

If I Remember Correctly There's a 12" difference between an XJ wheelbase and a shortbed MJ wheelbase, so I'm guessing the rail will be about 12" short.

car-part.com might be able to help you find MJ leafpacks.

If it just clicks it could be a weak battery or corrosion in the cables.

Would have been worth it if I had known about the grade 12 stuff. We got by using the big Grade 8 bolts I brought as a backup (in case the rod wasn't quite long enough, at the time I never doubted it's strength). What a night of fun. :D Limping along at 25 mph really late at night with flashers-a-blinkin', orange flags flappin' everywhere and a chase vehicle. Many-a-cop passed us reeeeal slowly, but no one ever stopped us. Sometimes it's better to attract as much attention as possible so no one thinks you're doing something nefarious or dangerous. :D

As many as you can make/find. It's all just sheetmetal up there and the front two that hold up the stock bumper don't even count as anything. They were designed with only crash in mind and are only capable of holding up the bumper until you hit something. On the drivers side I used 2 steering box bolts and another 1/2". Here's a shot of the pass side. The uppers are 5/8" and the lower (that I drilled a hole for) is 1/2". All grade 8. I'm even contemplating a 4th on each side like I originally intended.

And some people wonder why I always recommend upgrading ASAP... :hmm:

Dana 35?

Are these going to be offroad only?

If it makes you feel any better, I didn't find it by accident, but the more traditional way. I hunted for more than a month in auto ads and junkyards looking for the 78-79 Ford 1/2 ton axles (with 4.10 gears) while I was researching/planning the axle swap. It was advertised in autotrader for like $1500 so I went to check it out. It was a non-running piece of rusty garbage, but all I wanted were the axles so I made an offer and waited patiently. Couple weeks later he accepted and I drove up with a Buddy's truck and a tow bar and we hauled it away. :D P.S. And just a lesson-learned to share with everyone, the long lengths of threaded rod you see for sale in the hardware store aren't very strong. Or at least not strong enough to be used to secure a tow bar to a Bronco frame. :roll: It lasted about 1 mile and snapped when we pulled into a parking lot to double check everything before hitting the main roads. The good news is that I no longer had to worry about draining the radiator, seeing as the towbar pushed right into it. :D