Pete M

I've got one brute force and it has held up fine thus far.

If this is the case, why would it start up so easily with a jump? And that's why I thought it's a bad cable or cable connection that's not letting enough juice flow. I've seen perfectly fine looking cables or connections that simply did not let the truck start. I'd replace a cable or clean a connection and everything magically worked again. Don't forget to examine every battery cable and every connection between the battery and starter that would carry the starting current.

Primer doesn't really keep out moisture all that well. I'd suggest primer it, then hit it with some primer-colored paint. :D

There's no such thing as too many MJs. :D I don't own a single square foot of property myself and I have 3. Which superswampers did you buy?

Central Axle Disconnect. It's the vacuum actuated device on the front axle that locks the passenger side shaft halves together.

CADs were available through 92 and car-part shows them as a choice through 93. ALL MJs came with the CAD except for a handful of 86s with the fulltime case (although something in the back of my head says someone said they too had a CAD).

4.0L/manual/2wd/30"-ATs/open-diff. Under acceleration it started spitting out ring and pinion teeth. Also found out it was slightly bent, but have no idea which one caused the other. With a 2.5/auto/31s you should be fine. But that doesn't mean you shouldn't plan for the future. :brows:

I carry a spare 35 shaft and I don't run a 35. :D

I vote 78-era Ford! :D Of course, you'd need to swap in the Dana44 too. :P

Yes, longer shackles can contribute to springwrap. Springwrap can cause wheelhop, but you can still have 'wrap without the tire doing anything funny. A common indicator of springwrap is when the rear end of the truck drops significantly when you hit the gas.

I changed a 4.0L waterpump on the side of the freeway in maybe an hours time. If they say they have to remove the rad, they are lying or idiots, either way I wouldn't let them touch my truck.

Only way to know for sure is to try. :D

There's a huge difference between powering the lights/radio and turning over the engine. Did you clean up the cable connection at the starter? But aside from that, I once took apart a starter to find that inside the copper plunger that contacts to flow the juice had some severe wear. Cleaned it up with a grinder and it worked just fine. But that vehicle would start maybe 50% of the time I turned the key and the odds didn't improve if I was getting a jump. Many auto repair places will check out your starter and battery for free.

I recommend retaining your main leaf and build down from there. Explorer leafs should lower it a bit. Can't you just use drop spacers? It's SUA after all.

Unfortunately I don't have extras of what he needs. :( Have you tried car-part.com ? Midwest Auto Recycling in Cudahy (1-800-419-1990) Seems to have some and they aren't that far from Burlington.

Notice the second from the bottom is only touching the leaf above it at the tips and the middle.

My experience with the MJ leafs is that the second from the bottom is what provides much of the lift. I'd bet your truck will sag some and no longer match the other side if you replace it with the next one up. But since there's no way to tell what shape everything is in, the only way to know is to try. Also, that second from the bottom has the leaf alignment thingies in it.

S-10 rad won't fit. MJ/XJs have a very short and long radiator.

This is what I do: Step one is to clean up the battery terminals with a wire brush and examine the cables for corrosion or cracks in the plastic. Step 2 is to take the battery to an auto parts store that checks them for free. If you can jump it with another car, then I'm guessing your starter should be fine.

I second removing the blocks and adding another leaf. I used a main MJ leaf, cut the eyes off and added it under the main in my packs. That should be good for an inch and it'll help control springwrap. My newest MJ is getting the same treatment, but I'm using a main from a code-F Explorer pack.

You could route the battery to the bed or even behind the seats.

You have to move the spring perches no matter what you do. XJ perches will not work under an MJ, even if you go SOA.

I'd like a drivers side floor... :(

No problemo. I was about to type it all out, but figured this way you could know and then direct questions to the guys that actually know what's going on with the AW-4s. :D I'm a stickshift guy.

You mean changing out the axles right? You can't simply swap in gears without setting them up, and junkyard gears don't always take well to being re-setup.