Jump to content

Pete M

Administrators
  • Posts

    40049
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    114

Everything posted by Pete M

  1. Converting a system from R-12 to R-134 is pretty easy so don't let that be the reason for passing up on an otherwise good deal.
  2. Yes it will work with some minor mods TJs had the AX-15 through 99. After that they had the NV-3550 (or the 3500, one of those) which is an even stronger trans if you can find it. You'll need these parts from an MJ/XJ: -t-case shifter linkage, -trans mount -trans shifter handle, And the t-case will be clocked (rotated) slightly higher than an MJ/XJ so there's a chance of minor clearance issues with the floor pan. Oh and yes, it'll be an internal slave.
  3. Them thar's some big tires. :D
  4. Yes and no. Not with Jeep parts. But if you can find a bellhousing from a Dakota that had an AX-15 behind the 4-banger, you could.
  5. Any 5 speed found behind the 2.5L will work. :D
  6. Isn't there a ground up under the dash?
  7. Yeah, but I'd have to sell a kidney to fill them up. Near me? Chances are slim. I'd rather not buy anything from the rust belt again. I'll add in a flight and fuel to get home (from Colorado or Florida or somewhere rust-free) into the price.
  8. Keep the change. :D
  9. I've noticed several ads for the big fords and burbans advertising a new trans installed.
  10. SOA = Spring Over Axle (leafs mounted on top of the axle) SUA = Spring Under Axle (leafs mounted underneath the axle)
  11. Then what's the computer and harness for?
  12. Are you contemplating an auto? Or a swap to a newer year engine?
  13. Huh? A manual tranny is a manual tranny. No computers involved with our Jeeps. I think the only wiring I did was to splice the backup lights into the new transmission's switch.
  14. Yes. Extra bonus points if you get them from a Wrangler. There are differences from the XJ/MJ versions that will have to be worked around (trans mount, t-case shifter linkage, trans shifter tower/stick) but the YJ/TJ trans clocks (rotates) the t-case up a bit which equates to a bit more ground clearance. :brows: And if you're going with leafs, you'll want to strengthen up the front frame.
  15. No quad cabs. Not enough room. Besides, I'm not in the market for one just yet. I've got no money, only a Dak R/T and I'll need to convert it into cash first. 8)
  16. Sand blast, primer and paint. And then very careful assembly. I got some leafs from Florida and called it close enough. :D It'll take years (maybe decades) before they get like my old ones.
  17. Yeah, but who's "they"? That truck makes me want to change my rules a bit. :brows: Too bad it probably would cost too much. Excursions aren't any wider than a regular Ford superduty truck. Duellys are like 2 feet wider than regular pickups. That black Dodge above is a dually. Notice the extra wide stance in the rear. On a weird side note, the pull-your-part near me had a wrecked Centurion conversion in it not too long ago. If I had unlimited funds I might find one of those and pimp it out with a new drivetrain. :D
  18. :eek: Did the hood fly off?
  19. I'd also go with a diesel Excursion if I could afford it.
  20. Problem is those same price increases have hurt the value of my Dakota R/T. :( Not too long ago it was worth almost 9Gs. Dodge did have a 4-door in the late 90s, but they were half-doors. The 7.3L Fords were first on my list until I discovered the 'Burbs and if I was to go with a pickup, I'd go Ford over Chevy. But I don't necessarily need the biggest, baddest engine in existence as much as I need a reliable hauler. Both engines are plenty capable of dragging my MJ around, the tie-breaker will have to be something else. Possibly the conclusions from the truck bed vs. interior bed debate.
  21. Where's your patented camera mount? :brows:
  22. 1. essentially any diesel that meets the "new enough" category would qualify. Early 90s had some non-turboed diesels. 2. absolutely, as long as it has four full doors. None of that half-door crap. 4. yup that's what I thought too. But I saw a couple ads for diesel Burbs that said they were 1500s so I included it for the heck of it. 6. The cummins kinda gets screwed over because of Dodge not having the crew cabs early on. Anyone know what year was the first for the crew cab dodges? Actually I know very little about the 6.5 diesels other than they are supposed to be good for 20+ mpg in the 'Burbs. Still have to do that research.
  23. Pete M

    Fay is on the way

  24. But am still open to suggestions. This is all theoretical at this stage because I'll need to sell the Dakota to fund it. The requirements: -1. Diesel. Turbo diesel at that. And no 6.0L Fords -2. 4 full doors (I want to bring 4 or 5 people long distances in comfort) -3. 4x4 (don't plan on needing it, but I once got a 2wd Durango stuck on the side of the road when flat-towing my MJ. We had to disconnect the MJ to allow the Durango to get back on to pavement. I don't want that to happen again.) -4. No half-tons (I want the upgrade in brakes and axles) -5. No duallys (I'd like to be able to park the dang thing) -6. Needs to be around 5-7k (the general range of worth for my Dakota) and yet still be relatively new (want reliability), under 200k miles, and without needing major work (although I'd take a much newer rig if it had body damage but everything important still worked). The price range would obviously be modified if I have more funds available. Any other details I should be looking at? I'm leaning towards the 94+ 2500 Suburbans with the 6.5L diesel. :brows:
×
×
  • Create New...