Pete M

I was trying to stick with the old color scheme and yellow meant "new". I may tone down the shade a bit though. :roll:

Hey, it won a few battles, but I won the war. :D

I added an extra main leaf (with the eyes cut off) to my MJ packs and got a small bit of lift (about an inch) and didn't notice any change in ride quality.

Ok, so I'm playing around with the images in the subgreen forum style and made up a munch of little MJs to replace the generic icons. I started with the "topic" icons. If you haven't cought on yet: Gray = read topic Yellow = unread topic Red = "hot" topic (lots of replies) ones with the little rollbar and hood scoop mean that you've posted in that topic. and if you ever see an MJ icon with flat tires, that means that the topic has been locked. I'm sure there will be more to come. :D

That's a bummer for sure. :( Although, with all this new-found time on your hands, I may have a project for you. :brows: PM sent...

Well, try again! :D

Still more progress than I've made on my newest MJ. :D The only thing that's changed is that the one front tire went flat. :shake:

Runs and drives and isn't rotting apart? Sounds like a great deal to me. :D

So the plug that says "don't remove" doesn't do anything in particular? A Jeep practical joke maybe? :clapping:

Time for some rocker guards and bumpers. :brows:

I just did something similar to mine. I made a small cut in the corners, and folded the metal over using channel locks and a hammer. Not the cleanest way, but as you can see, there's not much left of the original steel in that area so it doesn't really matter if I smash the paint.

I had that happen to my Peugeot once. After a lot of frustration on the side of the road, I just kicked it real hard. It popped right out and never did it again. :dunno:

Were those supposed to be 2 different pics?

No it won't. I just made a mess. :D But then my pilot bearing had half-disintegrated and so there wasn't a smooth surface touching the dowel I used. I eventually removed it with a pilot bearing puller. But anyway, after I saw that pilot "bearing", I was far more comfortable with using the bushing that replaced it. At least the bushing can't suddenly lose it's bearings.

I don't remember getting a plate with the AX-15 that went into my 88. So I guess the Peugeot one worked. :dunno:

And if the bumper is rusty at all, I wouldn't use it. It's mostly just sheetmetal and can rust from the inside-out.

That's pretty much all you really need. That article even covers the seal that a CAD axle needs (slightly different than a non-CAD axle). Just install the newer axle shaft like the instructions say (including the seals in the new locations.) For the CAD itself, just remove the guts and silicone the housing back on. Or you can just shim the fork and call it a day. If you're going through the effort of swapping in a new shaft, I would go with the newer shafts that take the bigger U-joints and do both sides.

For what it's worth, my 4.0 has overheated 3 times now (2 of them very badly) and did not damage the head gasket.

Yup. http://www.madxj.com/MADXJ/technical/te ... dSeals.htm

Somebody has to host it, and my impression was that this site was hosting the attachments. Someone please correct me if I'm wrong. But if I'm right, then we can't do that and stay within the current annual costs. Maybe later it'll happen, but not right now. It is nice to know we can do that eventually though. :D

Um, where are the pics stored if not on photobucket?

What's an "attachment thingy"? :hmm:

If both vehicles are 4.0Ls, then the front driveshaft will work. It's the rear that won't.

I don't recommend hooking up the disco on a vac Dana 30. Just permanently engage it and plug the lines. :D

Sounds like you're cooling system needs some TLC. Do you have access to an infrared temperature gun? And a swap to a full gauge cluster sounds like a good idea too.