Pete M

Probably offroader. :thumbsup: He volunteered to help with the classifieds section.

When I had a similar thing happen in my 88, the water was leaking from the hood seal (the one at the back of the hood), dripping into the engine bay and following an wire down through one of the firewall holes.

The frames are different, the pinch welds are different and the wheelbase is different. I think it'd be easier to start from scratch and build your own than to attempt to alter an XJ unit.

Check the ground located behind the drivers side tail light.

I hate 3.07s and I feel your pain Rick, but regearing is one of the few things that even I won't do. It's a mix of science and voodoo and if it doesn't come out right, you can end up with a noisy axle or even a burnt up axle. Is your MJ your daily driver?

I punched mine through the frame and welded it to both sides. :D

Where along the frame are you measuring? The frame's width changes along it's length. I tucked my guards in nice and tight.

I've never gotten an owners manual with an MJ (and I've purchased 5 over the years). :( They are on eBay though. :thumbsup: And I don't know exactly how many seconds the truck will run without the resistor. Could be 1. :dunno:

Or you can email it to me and I'll upload it for ya. :thumbsup: petermontie@hotmail.com

If the Jeep fires up and runs, then dies after a couple seconds, it could be a problem with the fuel pump resistor. It's the whit/gray ceramic block on the drivers side fender with 2 wires running to it. The pump gets direct current for a couple seconds, then power is switched by the computer and fed through the resistor (it lowers the voltage slightly to reduce pump noise). Try pulling the wires off the resistor and connecting them directly together (don't worry, you can't hurt anything. 1987 MJs didn't even have it yet).

You have to find the leak first. Check the condition of your vacuum canister (in the front bumper on the passenger side) and the lines running into it. They are a typical leak point.

I did the same with my 90. But then within a mile of driving I developed a bad leak out the tailshaft. Don't know if it was related or not, but I swapped in a driveshaft from a AW-4 MJ just for good measure (the AW-4 is an inch longer than my manual trans and so the driveshaft is an inch shorter).

I find it hard to imagine it having spark and fuel in the combustion chamber, but no sputtering. Where is he checking for the spark and fuel?

Try organizing your photo addresses better (one address per line of text). You've got IMG tags all over the place. :typing:

Yes, they are different and not interchangeable. (unless you find a 4cyl Dakota bellhousing, but that's a whole other can o' worm)

This is what I did:

Centering an axle side-to-side only takes a tape measure. Just don't measure off of the sides of the differential. They aren't always even (as I found out with my 9"). I eventually got it right when I measured from the ends.

Oh good, you figured out what was wrong with the first attempt. And just as I fixed it for ya. :D Welcome! :wavey: Does the truck run alright?

A vacuum leak can cause the defrost problem. That's the default setting for the controls and it takes vacuum to move it. Is the tach original to the truck? Does 1000prms feel like 5000? Or does it just stop at 1000 like there was something in the way of the needle?

I'm feeling a little better about this weeks team. :D

What condition are the battery cables in? Old cables can suck the power before it gets to the starter.

Whoops. Yup, I meant 1310. :oops: I corrected the original post. 1330 is what the Explorer axle comes with (if it comes with anything. most junkyards would rather unbolt the flange than cut the driveshaft).

What's a CADD file?

It's pretty straight forward. -new leaf perches (get the Mopar performance perches from your local Jeep or Dodge dealership as they are cheap and beefy) -a 1310 sized Flange adapter (I do believe that Areostar minivans and Crown Vics with the 8.8 had this size, search the internet to confirm) -4 flange adapter bolts if the axle doesn't already have them (get them from the Ford dealership, they are cheap, metric, and wicked strong. Hardware stores will likely not carry bolts strong enough for this application) -95 Dakota rear flex brake line (might as well replace your 20 year old one while you're there) -pick a way to adapt the e-brake lines if so desired (there are a few different methods out there in cyberspace) -and anything else that your particular axle needs to get into shape

Please don't sink any money into regearing a Dana 35 rear axle.