Pete M

I find it hard to imagine it having spark and fuel in the combustion chamber, but no sputtering. Where is he checking for the spark and fuel?

Try organizing your photo addresses better (one address per line of text). You've got IMG tags all over the place. :typing:

Yes, they are different and not interchangeable. (unless you find a 4cyl Dakota bellhousing, but that's a whole other can o' worm)

This is what I did:

Centering an axle side-to-side only takes a tape measure. Just don't measure off of the sides of the differential. They aren't always even (as I found out with my 9"). I eventually got it right when I measured from the ends.

Oh good, you figured out what was wrong with the first attempt. And just as I fixed it for ya. :D Welcome! :wavey: Does the truck run alright?

A vacuum leak can cause the defrost problem. That's the default setting for the controls and it takes vacuum to move it. Is the tach original to the truck? Does 1000prms feel like 5000? Or does it just stop at 1000 like there was something in the way of the needle?

I'm feeling a little better about this weeks team. :D

What condition are the battery cables in? Old cables can suck the power before it gets to the starter.

Whoops. Yup, I meant 1310. :oops: I corrected the original post. 1330 is what the Explorer axle comes with (if it comes with anything. most junkyards would rather unbolt the flange than cut the driveshaft).

What's a CADD file?

It's pretty straight forward. -new leaf perches (get the Mopar performance perches from your local Jeep or Dodge dealership as they are cheap and beefy) -a 1310 sized Flange adapter (I do believe that Areostar minivans and Crown Vics with the 8.8 had this size, search the internet to confirm) -4 flange adapter bolts if the axle doesn't already have them (get them from the Ford dealership, they are cheap, metric, and wicked strong. Hardware stores will likely not carry bolts strong enough for this application) -95 Dakota rear flex brake line (might as well replace your 20 year old one while you're there) -pick a way to adapt the e-brake lines if so desired (there are a few different methods out there in cyberspace) -and anything else that your particular axle needs to get into shape

Please don't sink any money into regearing a Dana 35 rear axle.

Seems like it'd be in the way. :hmm:

I think he's asking about the t-case skid plate.

I thought MJ axles were 60"? :hmm:

How hot do the wires get?

Yes, front XJ brackets would fit an MJ.

Please don't spend the money until you know what the popping and vibrations are from. You'll be spending a small fortune and it may not fix the issues. I have a spool in the back of my MJ and it pops and squeaks everywhere I go. Hubs wouldn't change that.

Wide track or narrow track?

What condition are the battery cables? It's possible to have juice enough to run the fan, but not enough to start the truck.

:needpics:

I would suggest finding out what is in your differentials before deciding on spending a huge chunk of change on hubs. My guess is that there is a locker in the rear. :thumbsup: Also, unless it is indeed an NP-242 t-case under there, I'd avoid using 4wd on pavement. :cheers:

I'm a bit of a Disney World freak. Once upon a time I was responsible for repairing lasers as big as a car. I use the Legacy control setup when playing Halo (curse you Golden Eye!). There was a time in my life where my short term memory was so bad that by the time I got to the 4th frame in a comic strip, I'd already forgotten the first. I developed an allergy to antifreeze at one of my prior jobs.

Does it pop when in 2wd? Or only in 4wd?