Pete M

Either by disconnecting it at he simplest joint, repositioning it, and then reconnecting it; Or or jack up the body and reposition it.

Should work now for everyone.

Sorry, I linked it from another site. I'll upload it myself in a minute.

Do you have the stock LCAs?

Oh, I just remembered that the guy did confirm that the Jeep Freedom concept (the convertible XJ) was demolished years ago. RIP

Where are they rubbing? How much lift? What rims? What tires? Don't make me do all the research... :fool: :D

This member has a ratrod look to his truck. Right down to the whitewall tires. :D viewtopic.php?f=7&t=6087

I have the same drill and it's frickin' sweet! :D I have the sawzall and the normal drill too. The right-angle and saw both fit neatly in a toolbox for when I hit the junkyards. Makes life soooooo much easier. :clapping:

Have you done any work to the valve cover recently?

Me too. He's much better about it. This one seemed more humorous than anything else. Well, it made me smile anyway. :D

See this post for plenty of opinions about swapping gears: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=13056

I'm not about to read any of that, but it almost sounds like a traffic post. One that is so stupid that people around the internet flock to it and give the site more traffic. :shake:

Yup. I routed turn signal duty to the little trailer lights. Looks like all that turkey and pie has affected my brain and I can't tell the diff between i and img. :D

I don't remember seeing a fullsize Jeep pickup anywhere. But we didn't get to pull up every car cover and I'm sure there's more to see in other buildings. :yes:

Nothing fancy here, just big and brutish (and cheap). The bumper mounts are more important than the bumper itself if you've looking to winch off it. I intend to make a receiver platform for my future winch so it can go in the front or back. About half the time I've been stuck, backwards was a better option than forwards. http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL91/512063/7859168/103751626.jpg

All it does is makes the passenger side into a one piece axleshaft, just like every other Jeep since the early 90s (XJ stopped in ~92, wrangler stopped in 95). It does not give you AWD. You t-case will still function exactly like it does now. :thumbsup:

If it's longer than you need, then yes, it can be cut down.

Notice how long the bumper brackets are. This is good for strength when extracting from the mud, as well as stiffening up the front end. The cracks I speak of happen in the frame between the steering box and the track bar bracket. Rick (xjs4ever) had that crack and after welding it up, made a brace that runs from the track bar bracket to the opposing side. I don't have any pictures of that on hand though.

How old are your shocks?

I was once a self-taught machinist. There was a small millling machine at one of my prior employers and I needed to use it but no one showed me much of anything beyond turning it on. It can be a dangerous piece of machinery and should demand respect. Out of ignorance I've shot my fair share of steel across the room. Then in college I took a machining course and learned all about feeds and speeds. The machinist handbook is your friend. :thumbsup: A full face guard and cutting oil are also your friends. :thumbsup:

Well, there's a one inch difference between the auto and manual so the front d-shaft should be fine and the rear will suddenly be 1 inch shorter than it is now.

Gotta do something about that rear bumper. did you ever get that chrome front from the j-yard?

Your CAD (central axle disconnect) probably isn't engaging. Most guys just bypass the problematic vacuum systems and shim it to be engaged all the time (making it just like all the Jeeps that never came with a CAD). See here for how to do that: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=12795

It is certainly possible for XJs to develop cracks in the unibody that can cause problems. This usually takes an extreme amount of flexing over time (think rock crawlers), but has happened in lesser rigs too (pretty rare though). An MJ frame is waaaaay stronger than an XJ (designed to carry 2200 pounds after all) and I don't remember ever hearing of it developing crack anywhere but around the steering box (not due to flex, but due to the push-pull of the steering vs the track bar). I suggest a support similar to the C-rok brace or just a good strong bumper that hold the front frame rails together (like mine).

Are you adding lift too? I know the rear shaft will be an inch too short.