Pete M

I wanted to do more of a cargo/troop-carrier/whatever-they-are-called top, but was too lazy to build a rear hoop. :laughin: Next spring I'm going to make the whole shibang.

As I was scrolling though the camera looking for something, I came across this one. Not sure why I would take a front pics without a rear pic, but maybe I was shooting some other aspect. :dunno: Not sure how much "worth" this gives the thread, but here goes...

We didn't really have enough lights to do the house justice, so we decorated the crap out of the playhouse. :D

Personally I would use a 360. Same amount of work as a 318, but with much more power. :D You guys are contemplating different axles, yes?

I'm still in, but you guys needs to figure out a centralized location.

I threw a camo patterned tarp over the bed/rollbar just to give some protection to the bed contents this winter. No pictures though. Not until I get back home on the 6th at least.

What on earth is an 03 Bronco?

Which is surprising since I'm out in the driveway trying to find some wi-fi (with the laptop sitting on the Liberty's hood). :typing:

Personally, I'd go with 4.10s all day long. :thumbsup:

:hmm: What brings this question up?

:clapping:

I didn't crawl underneath. If it's still there, I bet it's also rust free. :D The vehicles aren't exactly very high off the ground. Getting the tank out might be a challenge.

A couple typical spots for leaking are the bottom of the tank (usually due to rust), the back side of the tank (rust again), the fittings as they enter the fuel tank (the metal lines can crack with age), the rubber lines coming fromt he fuel tank, the fill line coming fromt he fuel tank, and the rubber lines as the go in and out of the fuel filter.

4.10s and 4.56s would both be fine on the street and the trail. 4.10s would be cheaper/easier since you can get them ready to go from the junkyards. And you CAN do this yourself. There was a first time for all of us. It's simply a matter of gathering some tools, gathering some info, and taking your time to follow the steps. Space is a concern though, but many members here have done similar conversions in one car garages, in driveways, or even on the gravel/dirt next to the house. :thumbsup: Don't sell yourself short.

I just want to add that anything from 86 really should be inspected first hand to be sure. There's so much variation that it's hard to say for sure. My 2.8/5speed has 4.10s.

Well, looks like I'm going xmas shopping at the mall tomorrow morning instead of junkyarding. :( Oh well. I wonder what days they'll be open next week. :brows:

Ahhhh, so it's required to run one of your other goodies. Gotcha. :D

nope. All were regular XJs. At least as far as I could tell. The grilles were all messed up or missing.

I found myself in the area today and so I stopped by pull-a-part North. Lots of picked over XJs and one MJ. the MJ was rust free, but lived a rough life. If anyone is looking for rustfree bedsides it might work for you, back left corner of the bed was dented (right under the light). Bring a sawzall. Tailgate was ok too. Some surface rust, but no rot. The truck looked like it had spent it's life in the desert. Bery nice weathered patina on it. :D Only a couple of the XJs had anything worth while (couple fenders here and there, no front facias intact, no good seats, no 2-doors). Tomorrow I hope to hit up South and East.

IMHO, C-clips eliminators and lockouts are both overrated. If they come with the axle already, so be it, but I wouldn't pay for them. My hubs are only used on the road because I have that stupid minispool up front (which I hate and am removing) and you have to break a shaft before the C-clip becomes an annoyance. Good luck with that. :thumbsup: And take some video of it happening. :clapping:

Problem is, there's no easy way to do it. It either requires a lot of work, or a lot of money (or both). :(

I couldn't tell if you're turning everything by hand or with the engine, but if the engine is turning everything, do NOT engage fulltime 4wd without a rear shaft installed. The t-case can't take that much differentiation. I think the 242 shifting gate (the little framework that the shifter handle runs through as you pull back) is different from the 231 shifting gate. Did the 4wd shifter assembly come from that same donor XJ? This is the adjustment procedure for the 231. I assume it should also work for the 242.

x2. What transmission is coming out?

Before doing anything drastic I would: -give it a tune up (including making sure all the sensors and in good shape) -eliminate any restrictions (poor mufflers/intakes or clogged cats) -new fuel injectors (5.0 mustangs) -Timing chain (to get everything beck into spec) -gears, gears, gears. If you want a real kick in the pants, gearing will give that to you in spades. :thumbsup: Even street-based MJs can get huge benefits from a bump in gear ratio.

I didn't have much of any tools for heavy vehicular surgery when I decided to build up my 88. So I bought them. And I still don't have a welder. Didn't stop me from building my own. :thumbsup: And mine is a lot more, um, custom than yours will be given your criteria. I still haven't done an engine swap though. I've pulled a couple, but haven't installed one yet. It's on my to-do list. :D Gear setup I'd still leave to a pro. Buy: -3 ton jack and a 2 ton jack at least 6 jackstands, I like a mix of heights; 3 ton, 4 ton and 6 ton (I also have a pair of 12 tons) -folding engine hoist (if installing an engine) -ratchet straps -hand tools -big hammer, at least a 3 pound sledge -angle grinder -sawzall -and other things I'm forgetting, if you really need a list, we can provide you with more details :thumbsup: