Pete M

Nope. It will behave just like any Jeep axle that didn't have the stupid CAD. Jeep did away with it in XJs in the early 90s and the YJ after the model change in 95. Our best guess is that it was done on the theory that preventing the front driveshaft from spinning in 2wd would reduce wear on the parts and increase mpgs. It does neither of those to any measurable degree. The one bad-ish thing that could happen is that you'll find out that one of your front driveshaft U-joints is worn out if you feel vibrations on the highway (since it's now spinning all the time).

I've purchased plenty of things I didn't need, purely because they were in good shape, the right price, and in front of me. :D

CAD stand for Central Axle Disconnect. :thumbsup: And select-trac is a Jeep term that esentially means there is an option in the t-case that permits all-surface-drive (meaning running on dry pavement won't hurt the t-case). The 242 has that, the 231 does not (and should not be used on dry pavement). I don't recommend the Posi-loc. All you need to do is shim the CAD to be engaged all the time and it'll never fail on you again. :thumbsup:

I believe I did something similar to what you're thinking, only with square tube, I had to cut through the spare tire sheetmetal (though I can't seem to find a good pic showing that). If you have any interest in towing or extraction, I suggest using way more (and bigger and stronger) bolts than stock.

And I believe all Wranglers had the command-trac. Early models had the 207, later ones got the 231. Through 95 will have the dreaded CAD.

My bet is that this place has what you're looking for: :thumbsup: http://www.therangerstation.com/

I don't know, it sounds too much like chairman. Which in turn makes me think of Chairface. :D

You don't have to tow with it, I used the tow rating to indicate that the Libby is my minimum standard for being a real SUV, not a tall little car. Everything is a bit beefier and stronger in the Libby. I just looked up the 06 models and this is what I found for rated mpgs: 4wd 4banger CRV - 20/25 4wd 4banger Escape - 18/22 4wd 6cyl Escape - 17/21 4wd 6cyl Libby - 15/20 Hands-down I'd want the V6 Libby out of that group.

Have you shopped around yet for their competitors' prices?

The t-case handle is all the evidence you'll need. If it is lubed and aligned, it'll just feel right when you shift into 4-hi (but never on dry pavement of course). In my opinion, the front CAD and that silly light should be done away with. Heck, my 88 doesn't have either since it was 2wd from the factory. Never had an issue with knowing what the t-case was doing. :D But if you simply must have that light, route the vacuum from the t-case straight to the little switch that activates the light. I think it's on the passenger side on the engine bay. :thumbsup:

While we're on the subject, this is my current setup:

If they are nice and affordable, I would get them. You can always get straight slider tracks from another XJ/MJ if they prove to be to tall. The seats themselves (good condition ones at least) are the hardest things to find.

Maybe. I kept the mounts in the same position relative to the leafs and the stock shocks weren't long enough to give me full articulation. I was short an inch or so both up and down. Was never really a problem though. But I do look forward to my next trip out now that I have the long MX6s. :D Make sure your bumpstops are stopping your uptravel, not your shocks.

And avoid the XJ seats with the curved sliders if at all possible, as they will sit higher than normal by a couple inches. Can be good if you're short, bad if you're tall.

Well, how soon do you need your truck? Can this be delayed? To save 500 smackers I'd find some way to haul the truck back home. The last 4 MJs whole I've purchased were cheaper than that. :fs1:

Your truck likely feels weak because of the 3.55 gears that are in the axle.

Couple things I learned with my "scoop". On the freeway, air is continuously being sucked out of the engine bay due to an apparent lower pressure above the hood compared to below the hood. And anything that escapes out the hood area can be sucked in to the cab through the cab intake. I found that I could smell the oil from the engine bay. But thankfully, when I turned on the fan it forced the stinky air out into the airstream going over the truck and the smell went away. :thumbsup: I had to leave the fan on continuously for 4 days straight out to Moab, but lesson learned. :doh:

I used to go play in the snow in my 97 minivan. Maybe you need better tires? :D But seriously, I totally understand the love of 4wd. Just be sure to weigh in the fact that the Libby is a rear wheel drive rig with a 5k towing capability and the CRV/Escape are just tall cars. I've flat-towed my MJ with the Libby (albeit a CRD). My friend's Escape can't get out of it's own way. And in the rust-belt no less. :D It's been in the family since new. And it has the 3.3L, which apparently is a god-send. I've heard some great odo stories from people with the 3.3. Not-so-much from people with the 3.8. :dunno: This engine is doing so well that I would not hesitate to swap it over to a new van and keep on going (should rust or an accident steal my baby from me).

Ok, so maybe a Peugeot truck can retain it's peugeot slave when swapping to an AX-15 (with the internal slave), but if someone is replacing just the slave on their truck, it's important to get the proper part. Meaning the internals fit, but the hoses are different between the generations.

:eek: And that is why I do my own labor. :(

I had rain water finding its way past the rear hood seal and down through my firewall to end up under my carpet. So I'm a little paranoid about opening up new holes in my hood. :( Of course, that didn't stop me from popping that big hole for the exhaust fan in my 88. But I tried to keep out the rain as best I could.

Personally, I'd find a 2.5L/AX-5/4x4 donor XJ and swap over the whole drivetrain to get overdrive and the 4.10 geared axles, but this all depends on what you want in the end. What are you looking to do in this truck?

Just checkin'. :D

Have you done the math yet to see when the payments on this new vehicle will be surpassed by the mpg savings? It's typically hard to beat "paid for" for bottom line cost savings. :thumbsup: And for what it's worth, my 10 year old 209k mile Chrysler minivan with the 3.3 engine gives me a reliable 24+ mpg highway and will do so hauling way more than a CRV ever could.. :D

I was actually about to ask you guys about that. All I see is a blank space there. :hmm: