Pete M

You don't need a 4x4 MJ for that. :thumbsup: But you will need some extra cash to buy the lift and tires.

That's proven to be an issue on the street, let alone the trail. :D

77 and earlier small broncos are low-pinion. 80+ are TTB. 78-79 have cast wedges. But it's certainly possible that it was a 75-77 F-150 that was swapped in.

I always thought it should bolt up to all the 'older 21 spline rigs. :dunno:

It's a cute idea, but is it a bit too cutesy? :dunno:

If you can borrow a known-good ECU I'd try it and see. :cheers:

Cool. Not sure what happened, but let me know if it happens again. :dunno: My email is petermontie@hotmail.com

As far as I can tell, that name is still "active" (hard to know for sure since the forum software upgrade moved all sorts of things around on me and I don't see the same checklist as before). I set your password to "comanche", try that.

Trees, off camber situations, trees, and possibly a lapse in concern about needing to securely strap everything down. :dunno:

Who needs the floor? Just slap a cover on the bed and go. :D

Oops, yes, as a couple have pointed out, there is an email in his sign-up info. I forgot to add in my post that I sent a message to that one already. :doh: :shake: :dunce:

He hasn't opened my PM yet and I need some info from him quick. An email addy would be awesome if anyone has one. PM it to me if you do. :cheers:

or on the flip side, just about any small truck bed might work (with enough creativity and fab skills).

Have you confirmed that you have spark?

I don't know how bad it is, but try to get the headliner out intact and see if you can repair it if at all possible. They can be hard to find in any condition.

I would always add in the extra main leaf (to help support the original main). Then the 2nd one down (if you want more capacity but without a lot of extra lift). The 3rd one down is responsible for a lot of the "lift" in an MJ pack (as I discovered when experimenting with a bastard pack under my 90).

On the contrary. At 3" with stock control arms, your caster will be off and your tire won't be centered in the wheel well. And your stock track bar will pull your axle to the side. And your sway bar will be tweaked without extended links or the drop brackets. Why the need to another couple inches? Your truck looks great as it sits right now. What are you planning? :brows:

"Start easier"? :hmm: You'll need way more than just the engine and trans to get an HO. If you install the new engine but retain the old electrical system, you'll still have a Renix (and there will still be a bunch of adapting to be done). If you want the HO system, then you'll need the entire wire harness including the stuff in the dash. I complete donor vehicle is preferred.

The weld generally starts cracking at the top of the weld closest to you as you open the door to look at the hinge. Next time you come over to the 90 at my parent's place I'll show you. :D

Rip out that carpet asap so you can see the true extent of the rust and nip it in the butt before it spreads any more (chances are very good the carpet insulation is soaking wet). Also, the rear fenders rust from the inside-out. That's not just surface rust you're seeing there. Other than that it looks like a sound foundation. :thumbsup:

Did you set the camera to the "macro" setting? It'll take closeups better. It also helps to have the camera set on something when indoors to eliminate twitches of the hands that can show up when filming in darker conditions. :thumbsup:

Nice. :D

I would use an electrical contact cleaner on the fuse box.

Does the tapping rate increase with the truck's speed?

I believe one of our "suggested" guidelines covers it.