Pete M

Never tried. But then, my aux fans seem to die when the housing cracks into tiny pieces. :shake:

The FSM covers caster angles for lifted trucks?

:rotf:

Yeah, definitely put a project thread together about your truck. :thumbsup:

I was just about that ask that. What about the engine makes you think it's ready for major reconstruction?

One more vote for RE. Remember though that lifting is only part of the plan for running 33" tires if you plan on wheeling the truck. You'll want to look into upgrading the gearing in the axles, replacing the rear axle if you've got the Dana 35, upgrading the U-joints/shafts in the front axle (late model XJ/TJ shafts will go right in and have the bigger U-joints), and lockers, lockers, lockers. :D

Depending on how bad the interference is, you could trim the skid to clear the steering. You've aligned the truck, yes? Adjusted to get the proper caster? Adjusted the trackbar so the axle is centered?

Something like ~$40 for a thousand. It might be awhile before I need more though. ;)

Got a picture? Are you doing any other installments at the same time? What was your caster before?

There's always the chance that he wife was sick of the pile o' crap in the driveway and forced him to put it up for sale. "Seriously sweety, no one seems to want to buy it. I've had it on classifieds and even ebay!"

Did you swap the oil pressure and temperature sending units on the engine?

Do you know why your gauges died? You could probably adapt a earlier model speedo cable by swapping the plug that goes into the t-case with the older mechanical version.

Check out the projects in the projects forum. There are a couple guys doing the full 97+ interior, plenty of guys doing variations of the 97+ exterior, and a few that are dropping their 2wds. :thumbsup:

Does it still drive ok? Does it feel different? Have you tried filling the tank up to see if it's the gauge or sender that's faulty?

You're welcome. :cheers:

Longer shackles are only good for an inch or so before they become a detriment. You can get yourself a 3" full-length AAL for the rear. Just make sure it's for an MJ, not an XJ. They have very different arches in their leaf packs and so AALs work differently in them. Don't forget about a longer rear brake line (a '95 Dakota line works great).

So you want to lift the front 3.5" and would like to know what other parts you'll need? -Shocks -brake lines (stock YJ lines will work) -track bar -lower control arms -maybe uppers depending on how the caster sits, but I think they'll be ok

Weren't they using the Iron Duke 4banger at one point in time?

Rustys has a history of poor design, broken parts, and bad customer service. Don't think that the higher end suspensions are only for rockcrawling. The better setups are better in all situations, including on the road. Your money goes towards a better quality part (and getting all the right parts) and not just better performance on the trail. It's probably not wise to compare the price to what you paid for the truck. It's a cost/benefit analysis all unto itself. My last MJ cost me $75. :yes: Just wait til you look into upgrading the gear ratios to accommodate the bigger tires. :D Wheeling can be expensive no matter what you start with. If you want cheaper, try to get some parts used. Just make sure you get all of the parts needed to do it right. We're just here to try and steer you from the regrets and wasted money many of us have experienced. :thumbsup:

I,m lame at pics thing but here goes :doh: Well, you need to have after, but even then it's the wrong link. Check this thread for pic posting directions. :thumbsup: www.explorerforum.com

Also check out: therangerstation.com and explorerforum.com

Anyone else need any cards?

Look for an 8-bolt Dana 44 from a solid axle Ford with leaf springs (and get the matching Dana 60 from the rear of that truck). That'll likely be the easiest to weld on the Dana 30's coil perches and such. Plus it'll be high pinion and have a drivers side diff. And you can just plug the vacuum line coming from the t-case (and ultimately the engine). The t-case will function like normal regardless of the vacuum. There's a switch on the t-case that sends vacuum to the front axle when you pull the handle. Everything inside the t-case is purely mechanical. :thumbsup: And as to leaf springs, going SOA with your current leafs (assuming they are good, will give 5-6" of lift).

So what exactly is it about the VBulletin that makes it so awesome? :dunno: I admit the old PHPBB was a real pain in the wazoo, but that was mostly because I didn't know how to keep up with the updates. Once I farmed that out and got everything up to date (and learned some of the system) I like it.

You're going to scrap a truck over a taillight? :eek: