Pete M

Check that ground (dr side right behind the taillight housing), and then check the trailer harness (probably should re-do it), and then check the factory connector in the rear wire harness. It's located right behind the drivers side rear tire. I has corrosion in there that once robbed me of my brake lights. It was so bad that I had to hack the whole connector out and replace it with an aftermarket one. :(

Yah, I guess broken springs would be a good reason to replace it. :D

Doesn't really matter much if you shift right or not (although abusing it will likely cause failure to happen sooner). The Peugeot is like the Dana 35, it'll break whenever it feels like it and sometimes for no good reason. Yours might last forever. Or it could blow a hole out the side tomorrow. :dunno: Mine went for about 180k and then self destructed (blew a hole out the side) while simply tooling along at 65mph on the freeway. :fs1: It's best to read up on the AX-15 swap and at least be mentally prepared for the day it does die. :thumbsup:

You don't have to cover all the possibilities, just post up your experience in a dedicated thread so others can find it easier. :thumbsup: People like pictures and you took a bunch of nice ones.

Bummer man. :( But I guess it sounds to me like your truck is begging for that 4.0. :D

In theory the rear U-joint angle should change the same amount as the front U-joint angle and so they would remain the same relative to each other (which is the important thing for vibration cancellation). I added a couple things to the list.

Pete, time for a SD camera!!! Pop the lil chip thingie out and with it comes all your pics!!! :shake: :yes: :eek: :D there is a card in the camera, but I don't have a card reader on the computer. :dunno: But I did find the cable today so here we go: First up is the old fender. I didn't paint it very well since I only wanted to get a feel for how the paint was applied. Tools of destruction: First up was the stick, which snapped din half after the second blow. Then we stabbed at it with the sharp end of that stick and were able to chip a piece off. Then we hit it with the log and mushed a small flaw where the little stub stuck out of the log Then we beat the snot out of it with the rubber mallet, which only dented the fender. We popped it out and hit it some more with the same effect. Then we threw a rock and the baseball. the rock made a chip, the baseball did nothing but leave a dent. then we hit it with the sledge, and the sledge had no problem squishing flaws into the paint surface. In the end, I fear that these tests, while fun, are not completely indicative of the strength of the paint on the truck since I didn't put as much effort into the fender (though I did scuff it up and hit it with primer). I think the cooler temperatures in the morning may have hurt the curing of the paint. :dunno: Someday I might actually get that dang truck on the trail and then we'll really see how the paint holds up. :D

Haven't heard a reply on that yet. His private life is pretty much eating up all his time at the moment so I haven't been bugging him about anything unless it's an emergency.

I used poly mounts at the spear end with no apparent ill effects, but the poly C-bushings sucked. They just did not allow for any flex. If you find a source for new rubber C-bushings, let me know. Back in the day I couldn't find anything (although I really haven't looked for them recently).

Nice photos on the wiper motor install. :thumbsup: Have you made a DIY post yet?

vB is a fee forum software, phpbb is a free forum software and so we're usually a bit behind with new add-ons. I'm sure it'll be available eventually.

Find a place that you can fully stuff the front tire and turn it lock to lock. Measure how close everything is. Then decide how those measurements would change with longer bumpstops or any trimming. Don't forget that a static load isn't necessarily the same as a dynamic load. My front tires never touched the back of the fender until the front end of the truck fell into a hole as I was driving up a trail and the front tire came back and smashed the fender pretty bad. :(

What do you think is wrong with the disk?

I'm not sure why it hasn't made it to the DIY yet. Guys? :dunno: If it ever does, it'll probably look something like this (but with pictures): SOA short version: -weld new perches on top of MJ axle directly above and parallel to the old perches. -Use new U-bolts to reassemble -Use a 95 Dakota flexy brake line (longer than stock) -figure out what to do about shock mounts (there are a few different options here) -your driveshaft will now be an inch or so short. Some guys will run it like this, others will have the old shaft re-tubed, a longer shaft shortened, or a brand new shaft made up. If the truck is a 4.0/auto, you can use a 4.0/stick rear driveshaft which will be 1inch longer -Change your driveshaft U-joints. U-joints do not like their operating angles changes and could cause vibrations Longer version: -all of the above plus: -find a better axle than the Dana 35 to survive the bigger tires -find better gearing than stock to accommodate the bigger tires (with matching gearing up front) -carefully disassemble and examine your leafs to make sure they are in good shape. -Many of us add in an extra main leaf under the current main to better support it and help fight spring wrap (other vehicles can donate that leaf) Anything I miss?

Yup, that's a vBulletin thing. Haven't yet seen it for phpbb.

Is beer pong a sport? :dunno:

I bought a non-adjustable 100 psi regulator from a balloon equipment site. If I remember right it cost me under $30 shipped. No gauge and no adjustability make everything nice and cheap. :D Runs tools just fine. :thumbsup: Looks like the one this guys used (although the website he lists no longer exists) http://www.stu-offroad.com/recovery/co2/co2-1.htm

The Peugeot case splits in half with a left and right side and so you'll see a seam of bolt running along the top and bottom. The AX-15 splits into a front and rear half and has a big rign of metal joining them together. Peugeot on the right:

If both wheels are turning, then yes. If only one wheel turns and you only turn it once, then the driveshaft will only turn 1.7 times (half of 3.55).

If oil can get into the bellhousing, it can get on the clutch.

Yes, but both tires need to rotate once so if it's an open diff, keep one side still and rotate the other side twice.

Looks solid for sure. Pull up that carpet first chance you get to confirm. :thumbsup:

:clapping: Hockey, the greatest sport that no one watches. :D

Not bad. Although 5.13s would have been sweet. :D 4.10s? Or just 3.55s?

Take lots and lots of pictures. It is not overkill to snap a shot of each item as you unbolt it. It costs nothing to take digi pictures so snap away. Keeping everything organized and orderly is the key. I set up an excel spreadsheet when building my 88 and it was a great help (though admittedly my project was not as straightforward as yours). Random thoughts: -completely gut the MJ first, then you can install parts as you remove them from the Cherokee. Formulate a plan of attack, as I'm sure some parts need to be installed after others. -Remember that the 2.8 has a mechanical fuel pump and so you'll still need some parts from another MJ. -You'll need to swap over the 4.0 radiator and that means the radiator brackets, hood latches and hood. -Jack up one rear tire on your truck, put the truck in neutral and rotate the tire around twice (to simulate both tires turning once). While you do that, count the number of times the driveshaft rotates (mark it is you want). that will give you your gear ratio. Chances are that the MJ will have better gearing than the XJ (but there's no guarantee).