Pete M

My guesses for the backup lights could be either a bad switch on the trans, or a faulty connection in the main wire harness connector located right behind the rear drivers side tire. I've experienced both. :(

http://www.mjcamping.com/ Their title bar image won't link directly though. :dunno: It seems to be an Ireland-based camping supply store.

Interesting hood ornament ya got there. :D

Yeah, I don't really notice many MJs on the freeways anymore during my travels. :dunno: I imagine it's a factor of age, rarity and that it's probably not most folks' first choice in family vacations (not much room in there :yes: ).

If I was doing any towing/hauling, I'd stick with SUA. It'll fight springwrap better. :thumbsup:

Bring it over to my place. :thumbsup:

Always good to have a spare 60 lying around, right? :D

Good luck! :thumbsup: don't forget to breath. :teehee:

:waving:

lower control arms need to absorb way more force than the uppers. you are free to do anything you want. I just want you to be aware that you could lose everything if it fails.

The waggy pattern is 6 on 5.5". If you want to do a conversion to waggy axles, look into a mid 90s Isuzu rodeo rear axle. They have a Dana 44 diff, are the same 6on5.5 wheel bolt pattern, same width, and come with 4.10 or 4.30 gears and disk brakes. Then you'll only need to do a gear swap in the front to match. Oh, and swap on a regular U-joint yoke. :thumbsup:

That would probably be better than lengthening the stock sheetmetal arms, but it still wouldn't be legal on the street.

Can't. This is a family-friendly site. :D

Ownership is never a requirement. :thumbsup: This is a long-ish shot at this point in time, but if I'm down in GA Sept 28-Oct 4th, we can probably have a get-together at my place (meaning my parent's place) in Loganville.

What I'm saying is, if the cause of any accident is linked back to your mods, you're screwed.

If it's your RMS, then stop-leak ain't going to do anything. I lost 5 quarts inside of a half hour when that went. :( But the leak was pretty obvious and you could see dripping down even at idle. Good luck to you!

In Michigan it is unlawful to run suspensions with home-built parts on the street.

That'll never happen unless you change your driving style at the same time (which is frequently how any of these "mpg improvers" work). It's an unmeasurable difference when it comes to mpgs (sorta like the CAD). You'd be much better off spending that $70 on gas.

Oh the sweet, sweet irony that I of all people am linking to a thread rather than typing it all from scratch. :shake: viewtopic.php?f=6&t=14150

Might get a bit of power with the E-fan conversion too. :thumbsup:

Negative... I'm afraid what I might find....and I've never taken one off before, the way I work on things, I'd bust something and never get back together. It's not that hard. It's been a while but if I remember it right, a dozen or so bolts and the cover pops off. Clean the inside of the cover of any grimy build up. Clean the gasket off (being careful not to let the pieces fall into the engine). Then replace cover using new gasket and torque in the proper sequence. Having access to a torque wrench is really the only catch. That, and the rear most bolt can be a real bear without an ratchet U-joint. You really should own both those things anyways. While it's open, wiggle the lifters to see if any are seriously loose. Torque them down to spec if they aren't quite right. Be careful not to break anything nearby by leaning on it and you should fine. :thumbsup:

Yes, I think your guesses are correct. :thumbsup:

Your money could be better spent elsewhere.

everything. Everything that connects the axles to the body. i.e. brake lines, track bar, sway bar links etc.

Did you bench-bleed the master first? Is the setup internal slave or external slave? The trans is most likely an AX-4. (the t-4s were pretty rare in MJ/XJs) A photo would clear that up. Either way the bleeding happens just like the brakes.