Pete M

I've heard horror stories from guys that went through 2 or 3 aftermarket slaves to find one that kept working. :( OEM should last another 150k miles. Too bad the trans probably won't survive that long. Personally, I'd hunt down an External slave AX-15 and swap that in instead of paying for a new internal slave for a Peugeot.

If it's internal, I can only recommend the OEM slave. the aftermarket units seem to have a problem with poor quality and premature failure. :( but if you're open to anything, try calling all the local auto parts stores.

Or center it directly under and a couple inches below the nametag.

I would center it in the space below the nametag.

7 now. :peek:

but this time I thought about announcing it. :D

Holy cow! six chatters at once! :eek: :D

And I forgot to mention that it's the Explorer 8.8 that you'd be looking for, not the other 8.8s that Ford shoved under just about everything.

maybe. maybe not. :D

The front "prop valve" in an MJ isn't actually a prop valve, just a splitter. The MJ has a height sensing prop valve in the rear. Technically, you could use the rod length to vary the amount of power getting to the rear.

A flairback maybe? :dunno:

95-01 are disk braked. ANY axle you plan to swap in (except for another MJ axle) will require welding on new perches in the proper location. Don't even think about SOA if you're just looking for 3". HellCreek makes a great leafpack for a 3" lift if you want something better than an AAL. Also, the v6 and v8 axles are identical except for the bracketry you're going to cut of anyway, so don't spend any extra on one from a v8 Explorer thinking it's somehow better. :thumbsup:

There's a tag on the diff cover (and unlike the old Jeeps, that tag is usually there and not rusted away). If it has 2 tags, then it's likely a posi diff too.

way stronger than a Dana 35 and way more available in the yards than an MJ/XJ Dana 44 (and the disk brakes and 4.10 gears are just a bonus).

wheel bolt pattern?

Does it match the front?

It'll be exactly the same as if you swapped in a one-piece shaft. Exactly like all late-model Jeeps. :thumbsup:

It's a simple process to pull the cover and use the clip to keep the collar engaged. :thumbsup: No extra anything.

All TJs have low pinon front axles. But for what it's worth, on a 3" lift, a low pinion axle should work just fine. :thumbsup: Look for XJ front axles. Being non-vac is overrated since it's easy to bypass the CAD.

I disagree. I've driven Pat's 87 on 4.10s with IIRC 31s, and for street driving it felt like too much gear. I think 3.73 would have been nicer. It's probably more gear than you're used to, but it's not too much. youd get used to the difference. :thumbsup: Heck, it's not enough gear if the engine is a 2.5L. Plus, 4.10s are way easier to find than 3.73s in a high-pinion Dana 30. :yes:

Find a set of 4.10 axles regardless of the tire size. :D

31s will work better for a DD/weekend warrior. :thumbsup:

Yeah, it'd kill me to see someone drive away in my baby. :( At least you can drive around town in yours. :fs1:

You can update it in stages too. A 4wd front axle will bolt right in without any change to the trans. The 4wd trans and t-case will bolt in without the front axle. Heck, any MJ lift kit will bolt right in to a 2wd MJ. Personally, I would upgrade the rear axle ratio first. :thumbsup: Also, try car-part.com if you haven't yet.

Buy it. Drive it. Enjoy it. Upgrade it later. :D