Pete M

Or burning yourself when loading stuff into the bed. Or roasting yourself from the heat radiating into the cab. Or going nuts from the constant fan noise right behind your head.

Probably 5 minutes after it aired. :yes: If not before. :shake:

Is it the pin? Or is the hinge pulling away from the sheetmetal? (usually from a cracking weld)

I'd probably trade all my Jeeps for a Unimog. :D

I use a program called ACDSee. if you email me the big pic, I'll take care of the rest for you. petermontie@hotmail.com :thumbsup:

got a pullapart.com near you? car-part.com shows a few under 300 in NC.

The last ax15 I bought was a hair over 100. :thumbsup: where are you located?

I used to use the 88 as a DD (back when it was still 2wd). I missed having an MJ to tool around in and so I got that 90 (that still isn't road worthy).

Good point. Nix that CJ bushing then. :thumbsup: If you have an AX 15 now, then yes it should swap. :yes:

I reused my 88 clutch. The flywheel has the CPS tone notches on it and must stay matched to the engine operating system.

-The TJ AX-15 shifter is a bit different (taller) than an MJ/XJ shifter. It can work, or an XJ/MJ version will swap right in -the YJ/TJ transmissions clock (rotate) the t-case up a bit. some guys have reported needing to take a hammer to the floorboards to make sure the t-case doesn't contact, other have not needed too -you'll need a pilot bushing for a mid 70s CJ 304 the rubi case should bolt up to any AX-15 (both should be 23 spline) but you'll need to figure out how to do the shifter linkage since the YJ/TJ links are a bit different than the MJ/XJ stuff. I put a 99 TJ AX-15/231 into my 88 MJ using the CJ bushing, the TJ shifter, no hammering of the floor, a custom crossmember, a mishmash of TJ and MJ linkage pieces, and I adapted the TJ slave line to my stock MJ master line with a $2 compression fitting from the hardware store. Would I do it again? yes. :D stock T-case in a TJ on top. stock t-case in an MJ on the bottom

The Explorer 8.8 is 5/8" narrower on each side.

car-part.com might help. look for a 96 XJ 4.0L 2wd 5spd trans Might turn out to be cheaper if you can get all the parts with it like I did. But it won't likely be faster than simply fixing what ya got.

I've heard horror stories from guys that went through 2 or 3 aftermarket slaves to find one that kept working. :( OEM should last another 150k miles. Too bad the trans probably won't survive that long. Personally, I'd hunt down an External slave AX-15 and swap that in instead of paying for a new internal slave for a Peugeot.

If it's internal, I can only recommend the OEM slave. the aftermarket units seem to have a problem with poor quality and premature failure. :( but if you're open to anything, try calling all the local auto parts stores.

Or center it directly under and a couple inches below the nametag.

I would center it in the space below the nametag.

7 now. :peek:

but this time I thought about announcing it. :D

Holy cow! six chatters at once! :eek: :D

And I forgot to mention that it's the Explorer 8.8 that you'd be looking for, not the other 8.8s that Ford shoved under just about everything.

maybe. maybe not. :D

The front "prop valve" in an MJ isn't actually a prop valve, just a splitter. The MJ has a height sensing prop valve in the rear. Technically, you could use the rod length to vary the amount of power getting to the rear.

A flairback maybe? :dunno:

95-01 are disk braked. ANY axle you plan to swap in (except for another MJ axle) will require welding on new perches in the proper location. Don't even think about SOA if you're just looking for 3". HellCreek makes a great leafpack for a 3" lift if you want something better than an AAL. Also, the v6 and v8 axles are identical except for the bracketry you're going to cut of anyway, so don't spend any extra on one from a v8 Explorer thinking it's somehow better. :thumbsup: