Pete M

one more list. take it all for what it's worth. :dunno: 41 = 3.27 45 = 3.55 46 = 3.73 42 = 4.10 D1 = 3.27 D4 = 3.73 D2 = 4.10

Hmmm. that's according to one site. These are on another: 41 = 3.27 42 = 4.10 43 = 3.08 45 = 3.55 46 = 3.73 D2 = 4.10 LS D4 = 3.73 LS L73 = 3.73 LS

Are those codes in the door? Cool! then these be they: 41 = 3.27 43 = 3.08 44 = 3.73 45 = 3.55 D1 = 3.27 LS D2 = 4.10 LS D4 = 3.73 LS D5 = 3.73 LS

There's nothing to indicate that it's keyed is there? (meaning that there's only one way it goes on successfully)

I can't answer that question since I'd just keep both. :shake:

I don't know for sure, but my guess is that it's probably not on any "official" site. :peek:

Are the splines in the t-case and in the yoke perfectly straight and free from any burrs?

Did this driveshaft previously fit onto that t-case?

If it'll stay cool on the road, then the radiator is theoretically good enough. Sounds to me like you're just not moving enough air with those fans. There are plenty of cars in the junkyards that had pusher fans. I think my fan came from an Aerostar. :dunno: (it's in my hood scoop pulling air out of the engine bay). Should be a relatively inexpensive way to experiment.

Does it overheat when idling? When driving down the road?

I seem to remember reading somewhere that one of the later model Jeeps had a steering gearbox that was positioned differently and allowed more space for a bigger radiator. Do you have an AC condenser in front of the radiator?

95-01 have disk brakes. use car-part.com and you'll see what engines had what available gears, but mostly there's no good way to know what's under an Explorer without actually crawling underneath. :(

Or burning yourself when loading stuff into the bed. Or roasting yourself from the heat radiating into the cab. Or going nuts from the constant fan noise right behind your head.

Probably 5 minutes after it aired. :yes: If not before. :shake:

Is it the pin? Or is the hinge pulling away from the sheetmetal? (usually from a cracking weld)

I'd probably trade all my Jeeps for a Unimog. :D

I use a program called ACDSee. if you email me the big pic, I'll take care of the rest for you. petermontie@hotmail.com :thumbsup:

got a pullapart.com near you? car-part.com shows a few under 300 in NC.

The last ax15 I bought was a hair over 100. :thumbsup: where are you located?

I used to use the 88 as a DD (back when it was still 2wd). I missed having an MJ to tool around in and so I got that 90 (that still isn't road worthy).

Good point. Nix that CJ bushing then. :thumbsup: If you have an AX 15 now, then yes it should swap. :yes:

I reused my 88 clutch. The flywheel has the CPS tone notches on it and must stay matched to the engine operating system.

-The TJ AX-15 shifter is a bit different (taller) than an MJ/XJ shifter. It can work, or an XJ/MJ version will swap right in -the YJ/TJ transmissions clock (rotate) the t-case up a bit. some guys have reported needing to take a hammer to the floorboards to make sure the t-case doesn't contact, other have not needed too -you'll need a pilot bushing for a mid 70s CJ 304 the rubi case should bolt up to any AX-15 (both should be 23 spline) but you'll need to figure out how to do the shifter linkage since the YJ/TJ links are a bit different than the MJ/XJ stuff. I put a 99 TJ AX-15/231 into my 88 MJ using the CJ bushing, the TJ shifter, no hammering of the floor, a custom crossmember, a mishmash of TJ and MJ linkage pieces, and I adapted the TJ slave line to my stock MJ master line with a $2 compression fitting from the hardware store. Would I do it again? yes. :D stock T-case in a TJ on top. stock t-case in an MJ on the bottom

The Explorer 8.8 is 5/8" narrower on each side.

car-part.com might help. look for a 96 XJ 4.0L 2wd 5spd trans Might turn out to be cheaper if you can get all the parts with it like I did. But it won't likely be faster than simply fixing what ya got.