Pete M

sure. :cheers: I'm listing this off the top of my head. The spreadsheet is on the other 'puter. :yes:

V8 ZJ swaybar 95 XJ booster WJ steering box WJ control arms rear sway bar rear disk conversion KJ front disk brake conversion 16" KJ rims Explorer leafs under an MJ main Cut MJ front coils yes, I've given it some thought. :D

double flaring can be, well, a challenge. A quality flaring kit goes a loooong way to making them come out right, and the Autozone near me had some really cheap kits. It took some effort, but I was able to re-tube the entire 90 with it. The 88 I did back in the day and used the pre-fabbed lines. As long as you get the proper fittings, or can get adapters, it's pretty straight forward. Always get more length than you think you need, and always buy more lines than you need. You can always take them back.

Try to be nice guys. It wasn't his fault they gave it to him. Feel free to make fun of the committe all you want. :D I'm curious as to what he does with the money.

they aren't the only manufacturer using that design. Explorer 8.8s have the drum E-brake too.

plenty of big MJs out there, but I don't think they apply to the original post since they aren't members.

I'd find a 2.5/5spd XJ and swap over the trans/t-case/axles, then go have fun. :D

86 is a wild card. almost anything is possible.

That might refer to the source of the air flow. mine had an electric fan inside. heat should be from electricity

mine was basically a supped up hot air gun. doesn't cut, just melts.

takes some practice to get the hang of it. Work on some scraps first. :thumbsup:

I had one at a prior employment. it's kinda like tig welding. though I didn't do any "finished" projects. mostly adding ribs to ari intakes.

WJ control arms from the junkyards. :D much newer, stronger, and have that awesome tire-clearing bend in them. :thumbsup:

current Chrysler rules call for 10w30 motor oil. :thumbsup:

soooo, it's an automatic trans (aw-4) then?

I saw it at REI. Should be able to get it at any decent camping store.

One of the MJ lines goes to the rear prop valve, the other is the emergency bypass line that bypasses the rear prop valve in the event of a loss of front brakes. When I installed the 95 booster in my 90, I used the matching XJ prop valve and ran a single line to the rear (all new lines since I don't trust 20 year old steel under a michigan truck).

Yes! a drain!!! :banana:

where's the patience these days? I saved up parts and money for quite some time before even touching my truck for the 4wd conversion. :dunno:

you need to argue back that your buddy needs to finish up his lift.

Have you started a blog in the projects forum yet? :brows:

and it's generally not a good idea to send all that power through just one axleshaft anyways.

close. scouts had low pinion 44s front and rear :thumbsup:

no one makes a spool for the Dana 30 for a reason. :D

Your transfercase shifter is what shifts you into 4wd. The purpose of the CAD was to keep the front driveshaft from spinning when the truck is in 2wd (in a feeble attempt to save gas, which is doesn't). The CAD has no benefit for most of us. There's no need to fab up a plate. Just pop off the cover, pull the little C-clip, slide the shift fork and collar over to the "engaged" position, and then re-insert the C-clip to keep it there, then reattach the cover and start capping vacuum lines. :thumbsup: