Pete M

56" inside the rails. 61" across the bed rails. 16" deep. Even a drivetrainless MJ is good for some things. :D

rocker guards are your friends. :D

I always advise getting a new tank. used tanks are impossible to ship, usually removed at the junkyard, and god only know whats inside them. :D

are they swappable? It's been a while since I've messed with them, but I think I remember that they only went in one way. :dunno:

or get them from the junkyard. the lower control arms of XJs and MJs use the same bolts. :thumbsup:

don't bother measuring the driveshaft on the Cherokee, it's about a foot too short. I wanna say it'll be 43", but I'm 730 miles from that truck at the moment so I can't measure for another week.

eliminating the prop valve has had mixed results. some have had lock-up problems, other have not. It's sorta hit or miss. If you do find you're having lock-up issues, you can always try an XJ front prop valve, or splice in an aftermarket adjustable one.

it's a safety line that allows full rear pressure to the rear should the fronts fail. :thumbsup: You can either just splice in the T, splice in a union and cap the old emergency line at the front splitter, or (if you live in a rust-prone location) remove all the rear lines and run a new single from the front. (the brake line is prone to rusting out next to the gas tank)

you might want to ask HellCreek to be sure, but I'd hesitate making that much of a comparison between brand new lift leafpacks and the old factory leafs. the number of leafs does not necessarily directly correlate to an overall stiffer leafpack (thinner/thicker leafs, softer/stronger steels, etc). Yes, the factory metric tonnes had a 4+1 configuration while stock factory leafs had 3+1.

I've had similar issues with Belle Tire and they charge 2 or 3 times as much for tire work. I watch them all like a hawk. :D

not worth it at all. Unless for some reason you wanted 2wd LOW.

I'm in Ga for another week if anyone wants to meet up somewhere. I'm about an hour east of Atlanta in the outskirts of Loganville.

posted up in the classifieds yet? should be someone here that has an extra left over from a bucket/console swap. :thumbsup:

walmart is pretty darn cheap for tire work. :thumbsup:

do you know why it cracked? You might have more damage than just the output housing.

check for broken leafs. :thumbsup:

Also first gen Liberty. :D

he had better produce some receipts for those "new" parts. :yes:

It's hard for me to suggest an MJ as a drivetrain donor. That's what XJs are for. :D

:ack:

got a digital camera? take pictures. of everything. every bolt, fastener, electrical connection. They don't have to be high resolution pics, but make sure they are in focus. Become familiar with the "macro" setting. It'll help immensely if you get stuck on something with the later installation. :thumbsup:

Absolutely. A small bump in height will help, but probably not totally eliminate the rubbing on the flares.

get the bellhousing and all the bellhousing guts with it if you can.

no real need for a CV shaft. these aren't XJs afterall. :D For that combo and lift, I'd run something close to the 49". Hard to say for sure without measuring the truck with its completed setup.

personally I'd get a pair of 1.75" spacers for the Exp 8.8. It'll fix the rear without causing problems up front (rubbing on the flares). Plus, it'll help balance the MJ out visually. the Bed of an MJ is wider than the front fenders (which is why the rear tires always look tucked in). So if you add 3.5" of extra spacing to an axle 1.5" narrower than a Dana 35, it'll push the tires out just a bit further than they are now and finally make the truck look more "normal". :D