Pete M

Someone with more time on their hands please skim through this and compare it to the original email. I got suckered into, I mean, I'm having too much fun researching Focus transmission problems for a friend. :ack: http://www.snopes.com/politics/gasoline/citgo.asp

Bingo. I was just curious as to the spread of the years, but the guys figured we could gather a bit more data in the same fell swoop. Correy, are you putting it into a Excel spread sheet? you should be able to get automatic results as new data is entered. This poll could go on for quite some time. :dunno:

definitely Dakota lights. MJs don't have 4 mounting holes on the outside. hard to imagine what it took to get Dak lights into an MJ. :dunno: Dak on the left, MJ on the right:

what are the symptoms that lead you to believe it's dead?

each try was a for different reasons. It's been a while (and my memory sucks) but among the problems were a nicked seal, not enough silicone in all the right places, and not waiting 'til the silicone cured. But it's not like I knew for sure each time. :dunno: I just knew that it was still leaking. :(

as long as your truck is in good shape in the braking area, it'll do fine with a load as light as an ATV or an ATV on a small trailer. just keep in mind that it's a 20 year old truck with a 20 year old braking system and drive accordingly. :thumbsup: oh, and there's absolutely nothing wrong with 3200 rpms on the highway. The 2.5L will do that all day long no problemo. :thumbsup: I admit t where are a ton of variables at play with different vehicles and setups, but frequently you'll waste more gas accelerating with higher gears (numerically lower) than you will with highway travel with lower gears (numerically higher).

Unfortunately that was a problem just waiting to happen. :( our brake lines typically die first up next to the gas tank where moisture is more likely to stick around and it's hard to get a hose up there to remove salt. I ran a new one essentially straight back to the rear axle in my 88 (bypassing the prop valve in the process). :D

far as I know there is no way to reset the 90 and older timers. you have to buy a whole new timer. 91+ are resetable.

My 88 makes the same ticking noises after shutdown, cold or hot. been doing it for years and it hasn't blown up yet. :D still don't know what it is though. :dunno:

I dropped the oil pan 5 times before I successfully got the RMS to stop leaking. :( but I'd do the east stuff first and check for oil leaking at the back of the valve cover. they are notorious for leaking back there and looking like a RMS.

thinking back to years ago when I swapped a 44 under my then-2wd 88, I reused the driveshaft (more out of ignorance than anything else) and experienced no ill effects. :dunno: It's enough for me to say that it might be worth trying before seeking out a new shaft or shortening the old one. (though it may be wise to locate a local shop that can shorten a driveshaft so you're ready to go if there is a problem)

yup, should be on the drivers side towards the center of the dash. It's just a timer, designed to go off and remind you that it may be time to change out the 02 sensor. The dash light doesn't actually mean that anything is wrong. :thumbsup:

the factory rollbar could be added to any level MJ. :thumbsup:

it is a SPORTTRUCK ;) that's what my brain was thinkin' but wasn't sure :D

only concern with that is spacers would contribute to spring-wrap. :( an AAL helps fight it.

adding in an MJ main leaf as an AAL will give a small lift and will not negatively affect the ride. I've done it more than once and have no complaints. :thumbsup: the Hellcreek AAL is essentially an MJ main leaf with no eyes.

There's no way to know unless we determine which mounting style you have. can you snap some photos?

I mean there are a couple different styles of mounting. 10 years ago when I bought my 190 amp alt it took quite a few minutes on the phone to determine which one I had. problem is that most of that info has long since left my brain. :( I only remember that the mounting positions of the alt were important. :dunno:

there were different styles of alternators used over the years.

what alternator do you have?

HellCreek has an AAL that should give an inch. comes with the hardware you'll need too.

Poly C-bushings: 30 year old rubber C-bushings: I hate poly C-bushings. :fs1: Haven't been able to test it since I pulled the flares and installed the proper shocks.

"tonne" must be the Canadian version. :D

as with a LOT of Jeep history, there always seem to be exceptions to the rules. :dunno: My 86 is an MT truck and has 4.10s (2.8/AX-5) and an open diff (far as I know since I haven't opened it, there's no tag and it certainly gives no posi resistance).

aftermarket lower arms are usually round and so they may not stick out quite as bad as that lip on stock MJ arms. :thumbsup: But I'm not sure if there are any aftermarket arms that are for a stock height Comanche. :dunno: Fortunately Jeep came to our rescue and designed the WJ arms. :D