Pete M

have you tried adjusting the linkage? as far as the t-cases, yes they should interchange with minimal effort. I don't know for sure what the cutoff date is, but the 95 might not have the seal rear output.

is it doing this shaking while you're in 2wd or 4wd?

but if you do need some, I believe it's just plain ol' 75-90 weight.

adding a 8.25 will push the yoke in a bit, adding lift will pull it out a bit. there are some variables involved here (like pinion angle) that will alter the numbers a small amount. bottom line though is that having the yoke pulled out of the t-case 1/2" more than stock will not hurt anything. :thumbsup:

both t-cases run without vacuum. :thumbsup: the vacuum in your old t-case was used to power the CAD in the front axle. You shift the t-case into 4wd, and the vacuum is switched and diverted to the CAD, which engages the funky 2-piece front axle shaft. If you still have a CAD front axle, you can just shim the CAD to be engaged all the time and then everything will work properly. :thumbsup: But make sure you plug the originating vacuum line where it comes out of the engine or you'll have a vacuum leak.

mmmm....green MJ.... :drool:

yeah, I've always been a bit perplexed at the prices that company wants to charge. :dunno:

no MJ is immune to floor rot. :(

who said anything about the front clip? it's the rockers and bed that rot out first. :thumbsup:

bring a small magnet with you to check for bondo. :thumbsup: and pear up at the insides of the bedsides, the floors and frame, and the inside lower edge of the doors. and pull back the carpet as best you can to check for rust, moisture or funny smells.

If you've got 4.5' up front I say go for it and use a full XJ pack with the MJ main in SOA configuration. Then tell us how it does. :D The idea has come up before, but I don't know if anyone has actually gone through with it. Explorer multi-leaf packs could also be tried in that configuration since they have less arch than MJ leafs but about the same length.

have you crawled underneath and rotated things by hand? could it be a bad U-joint?

there should be a post about ride height near the top of the DIY forum :thumbsup:

from what I can tell, the photos that don't work are huge and exceed the limits in the forum. can you link to a smaller version of them?

:bowdown:

photos? videos? :brows:

Quick update. I had my meeting with the code enforcer's boss. gave me a lot of runaround and wishy-washy talk but I didn't really think I'd get much more out of him. I just wanted to get across that they need to either write me up for a legitimate gripe, or leave me alone. Haven't heard anything since. :dunno:

come on. someone has to have something... :dunno:

Pete, Maybe its time you update and remind us of the parking wars story. Has anything changed that brought you to this decision? good point. I should probably dig that back up. all that's happened lately is I talked with the code enforcer's boss. Didn't get much more than "I'll look into it" from him. :dunno:

are the explorer cables long enough?

All I'm going to say is a 5 inch "kit" without control arms or drop brackets is not a kit, that's half a kit, and is just a scam to drop the price. plan on buying longer arms or their drop brackets.

Just a quick reminder for everyone to make sure you are also updating your project thread too. :thumbsup: My update: nothing. absolutely nothing. And on purpose this time. :D I'm never readjusting the parking spots of the trucks again. If the city is truly serious that I'm doing something wrong by parking my plated/insured trucks on private property with the property owner's permission, then bring it on. :fs1: only a court decision will make me cave.

the only justifiable limitations on vehicular collections are money and space. and I've shown that even a lack of space can't stop a real diehard. :D

fwiw, our liberty has almost no resistance shifting into high range. :dunno:

behind the drivers side taillight. there are 4 screws holding the taillight housing in place.