Pete M

and this was after the vehicle trying to yank him out lost a tow ball (which thankfully didn't hit anyone as it flew through the air). tow balls and rear axles are not good extraction points.

get ones that say they are for a 3" lift.

the more you spend on shocks, the better the ride. gas charged would be nice. Interco trXus. my favorite all around tire. :D

ouch. what's the story behind that one? door still open?

belated update... well, they finally wrote up a citation a week or so ago. not for me though, for the doctor. something about a violation of "principle use". so far 2 lawyers have been unable to find a code "5.02" so we're not really sure what precisely the violation is. we're just going on the scribbles on the citation. so we (me and the neighbor on the other side of the office who also uses the lot occasionally) scattered our rigs. more recent, my 90 was parked in the driveway of the house adjacent to the drs office (buildings are joined and apparently taxed as one) and yesterday they tagged it for being towed in 48 hours. so I hurriedly made space in the garage and pulled it out of sight. have yet to pass that info on to the lawyers to see what they make of it. the sticker doesn't say what the violation is, nor is it signed (not that I have any doubts as to whom it is). :fs1:

Ah, the joys of front lockers. :D Damn the steering input, full steam ahead! :yes: But with one side disengaged in my truck, it's just a different kind of fighting with the steering wheel. with only the drivers side hub engaged (ford 44 with spool) and gas applied, my truck turns to the right. when I let off the gas, it turns to the left. it's torque-steer goes nuts. :ack: might be acceptable offroad, but not for pavement.

individual results may vary. I ran a spool up front and with one hub unlocked the torque steer was more than I wanted to deal with. offroad it might be more acceptable. on road sucked. :ack:

hooks that are properly mounted to the vehicle are fine (as long as the strap doesn't slip off). It's the hooks on the ends of tow straps that are dangerous.

are you absolutely positively certain the distributor went back in in the right alignment? the computer controls timing, but can only accomodate so much if the dist is off by a tooth. generally the truck will run, but run very poorly.

rrod can be an easy fix or it can be an impossible fix. There are numerous things that can go wrong and give the 3 rings. all depends on what failed first.

straps are better. waaaaay better than what you were doing. no straps with hooks. loops only. what part of your truck are you attaching to?

does your truck drive?

I would just wire it in as power and leave it there. :thumbsup: all Jeeps (after they got rid of that button) were wired that way. the comfort button only changes the shift points (and it really only matters when you floor it).

what mpgs are you seeing now? also, how are you calculating that?

all I'm saying is that any increase you might see won't be big enough to offset the investment you'll be sinking into the diesel swap. how many miles do you drive it a year?

sorry to burst your bubble, but there's just no way that'll happen. our bone-stock CRD libby can squeak out those numbers, and your Jeep has a LOT more wind/tire resistance. as I said before, do it 'cause it's cool, :thumbsup: don't do it to try and save money. :no: the engine block alone can set you back a grand. :ack: did you swap speedo gears to account for all the tire/gear changes?

oh good. I was afraid you were still pushing stock gears around. :D 4.0 or 2.5? the old MJ diesels were anemic piles. and parts are super expensive, if you can find them. We had a member down south that put a merc 5-cyl in his MJ. got it running and everything only to lose it in a hurricane. haven't heard from him in a while but I'd imagine you can find some info in the archives. be sure to check the tech and the projects forums be aware that diesels are big hulking bricks that weigh a ton and really don't fit well in the engine bay. you'll need a new trans, new mounts, new fuel delivery system, new exhaust, new radiator, new trans mount, etc. not even sure what sort of wiring you'll need to do to get the guages working. just about everything in your truck will need to be replaced or modded to make it work. a chevy v8 might actually be cheaper. also, out of curiosity, what the heck sort of fuel economy do you really think you'll get from an 8" lifted MJ on 35s, even with a diesel?

what size tires and what gears are you running?

swap in a diesel cause it's more powerful. swap in a diesel because it's cool. don't swap in a diesel because you think it'll save you money. you'll never recoup the cost of the swap. :thumbsup:

I smell a scam. plastics and gasoline are from a very, very different parts of the molecular soup we call oil. heat alone won't convert one to the other.

boooo kids. :fs1:

excellent. some thoughts off the top of my head now that I'm not actively driving: -I did the v6 airbox swap (so you're not replacing filters with every oil change). big thumbs up on that one. :thumbsup: -I generally unbolt the fuel filter bracket for changing the filter rather than trying to unscrew it, or more importantly, when trying to screw it back in (that's the tricky part). -I went with the samco hoses after the upper stock one finally blew. the lower blew a couple years ago and we've been on borrowed time with the used stock hose I got from a fellow CRD owner. -I like the bigger oil filter. :D but beware that the oil filter (big or small) is kinda expose underneath. Feel free to design a mini-skidplate if you want to do more than dirt roads. -the MAF sensor is the one I unplugged. it's in the top of the airbox lid. can't miss it. they call it the ORM (off road mod). world of difference. :D -I have yet to do the elephant mod. haven't really had any issues that would prompt me to do that. some common Liberty issues: -there's a plastic part in the window mechanisms that likes to self-destruct. we had one go. right now it's hekld up with some clothshanger wire, but there's a metal fix for it I'll be getting to some day. -the rear wheel sensor system is a weak link. either the sensors themselves, or the wires running to them. I think the wire running to the back pass side is the most common failure. and apparently only dealerships have the scanner to read brake codes. :dunno: Autozone sure doesn't. when it goes, it takes the abs and trac control systems with it. oh, and cruise control. my parents keep taking the CRD out of town, so I haven't gotten to that yet.

read through this yet? http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/v ... 79a918e5a1

square doesn't sound familiar either. :hmm: but maybe I'm just out of the loop. :doh:

welcome! :cheers: :waving: I've been meaning to use this quote, but kept forgetting about it. :D