Pete M

put the trans in neutral or pull the rear driveshaft, then you can rotate the axleshaft (once if both axleshafts spin together in the same direction, twice if one axle shaft turns and the other is stopped) and count the number of times the yoke spins around. 3 and a half times around equals 3.55, a bit over 4 times is 4.10, etc.

bypass the alternator? guess it'll just be for short drives then. daytime only. :D

looks like I was barking up the wrong tree. when I finally was able to get the belt off, it was clear that the alternator was frozen solid. :dunno:

photo? is the bottom of the differential housing flat from side to side?

A: feeler posts are not allowed. B. we have a classifieds section if you would like to sell things. :cheers:

who's up for a google challenge? :brows: I have in my possession an old 2 foot level, made of lightweight cast metal with the word "magnesium" cast into it and "Mayes Bros. Tool MFG. CO." and "Port Austin Mich." printed around the bubbles. The only thing I've found is someone that said on a tool forum that they were in Port Austin back in 1926 and moved to Tenn, but he didn't know when. The company still exists and, before I call them, can anyone find info on this level? I pride myself on being pretty good at searches, but using the terms "level" or "magnesium" keep bringing back results that have to do with chemistry and I'm becoming frustrated. :typing:

when I pulled the latches out, that removed the springs that pop the hood up that first inch so I needed something to do that job (better than a screwdriver). :D

asides from wiring splices, the latch mechanism and sticker are different and the sticker will need to be fabbed into your B-pillar.

the color rubbed off, or the product itself rubbed off?

safety chain = bad. check. :D I don't need the easy start, but I want to check it out. all of my experience is with other people's saws (I own an electric chainsaw) and the joys of struggling to get them going. some of them made me pine for the ol' 2-person hand saws I used up at scout camp. :ack: but my dad is always meticulous when it comes to upkeep on his tools/toys and so my fear may be for naught and whatever saw he gets will probably always start fine. I foresee him needing to fell a big tree maybe once a year, probably 24" diameter at the biggest and then just little stuff here and there.

it hides rust (but doesn't stop anything from just rotting away beneath it), it peels, it grabs hold of rocks/trees instead of sliding by, it's expensive, it has an insanely complicated spray procedure making it impossible to fix application mistakes (once the product starts flowing out the gun, you can't stop it without it spontaneously curing inside the nozzle), and, I'm sure there are some other reasons why I hate that stuff. I had it applied to the rockers on my truck and regret it. when it came time to paint my 88, I came across an old product called Zolotone. It's kinda a hybrid between paint and a true liner and has it's own set of complications. It still only hides rust, has a semi-complicated application procedure (but I was able to spray it myself), and is not dissolved by anything meaning the gun you use needs to be considered sacrificial just in case you don't get it all out. but I'm much happier with it. :D It's rock hard with a textured surface. I'd suggest finding a place near you that knows how to apply it. ranges from 40 to 50 bucks a gallon.

it burned up while the truck was sitting?

yeah, yeah, I've been meaning to get another big shirt order together, just been busy. I don't have anything like that on hand.

brilliant me, I drove over there (it's stored at my grandma's house) with the 13mm wrench, and only the 13mm wrench, only to find the tensioner pulley needs a 15. :fool: I was soooo sure it was a 13. :doh: Sun or Mon I'll be going back with more tools. I have no problems dumping the AC on it if it comes down to that. doesn't work anyway. :( plus winter's coming. :D plenty of that gen van in the pull-a-parts. so you're saying this is a self-curing problem? :brows:

so I'm on the cusp of parking the Dakota for the winter and figured the easiest vehicle to get to DD status (not that I have a job or anything that I go to daily) was the ol' 97 caravan since really the only issue was the stalling thing and that should be easy enough to tackle. today I drop in a battery (been parked for a few months), turn the key and she starts right up. success! or so I thought. a few seconds after ignition, smoke starts billowing out of the engine bay. some more investigation indicates that it's coming from the AC compressor pulley. after letting everything cool down, I try again and get the same result. a few secs after it fires up, the smoke starts. AC clutch issue? does the same thing if the AC is turned on.

What jeepco means is: welcome to the club! :waving: sounds like you've got one heck of an ambitious plan. if you're thinking of a full modernization of your MJ, a 97+ XJ will be a much smoother install (though there are some hiccups so be sure to read the couple conversion threads that are here in the projects forums) than a ZJ. MJs and XJs are very similar, but ZJs are very different. also, specific tech questions should really go in the Tech forum so more guys will see it, and then they'll be in the database for future members to find. This forum is more for sharing updates on your project's progress. :thumbsup:

XJ driveshafts will be about 12" shorter than an shortbed MJ with the same drivetrain. and I don't have any numbers on it, but it very well could be the sealed t-case that's causing the discrepancy.

alright, how about 10pm on Sunday? :brows:

off the top of my head, you'll need the 4.0 motor mounts, exhaust, and radiator related stuff.

which is fixed by wrapping the back end with plastic and duct taping the crap outta it. :D (there are a plethora of other ways to cap the back end too) If he swapped in the TJ unit first, then he'd have nothing to worry about. TJs and late model XJs got a sealed rear output (which is not a SYE, just a sealed yoke)

I thought the computers were different, 2.5 to 4.0. or does that count as part of the "engine bay harness"?

the axles themselves are directly interchangeable, but there were some subtle brake changes over the years. what specifically are you looking for?

with that much lift and having the 242 thrown into the mix makes me hesitant to say yes. that's a good chunk of money to wager on a guess, even if it is an educated guess.

you tested the tps yet? viewtopic.php?f=9&t=12260

been way too distracted. :( maybe next week if my life calms down a bit.