Pete M

does it still drag the tires if you just coast around the corner?

The wording is vague enough that aftermarket lift kits would work. :thumbsup: you can still build anything you want, just keep it off the roads (privilege, not a right). Could be worse. there are states that have full vehicular inspections and require you to fix things like lousy rust holes. it's just politicians trying to lessen the dangers on the roads due to idiots like that guy in the link. Competent people always lose when idiots are on the loose.

that's probably why home-brew suspensions are illegal here in michigan..... :shake:

correct. you will need a shifter from an XJ/MJ AX-15. (YJ/TJ are different.) there is a possibility that the trans output spline counts are different. but slip yokes are pretty easy to come by if that is the case.

ax-15 should be the same length as the peugeot. at least the 4wd versions are. where have you looked so far for the bushing? I got mine at autozone.

be nice to it and it should keep going. :thumbsup:

Pete, that's like strengthening a tank. :D The Grand Marquis (aka known as Crown Vics) had and have one of the best crash test ratings ever. Of course, more metal in the rear end sure won't hurt anything. :yes: remember that issue '95+ cop cars were having with higher speed rear end collisions? BOOM! exploding gas tank. The chances of a high speed rear end collision is low, but the hitch was all of 20 bucks, and I figure it can't hurt. :D

there's only one trans you could have. AW-4. :thumbsup:

yup, peugeot case splits into a left and right half. the AX-15 splits into a front and back half. hard to see from the photos, but the ax-15 has a broader and rounder bolt pattern from trans to bellhousing. peugeot has a skinnier and weird shaped pattern. If you had taken a photo, I could tell ya for sure, but it's hard to explain. AX-15 on the left.

to drain you'll need to pop off the cover (leave one of the top bolts in kinda loose to help prevent dropping the cover and spilling oil everywhere). takes plain ol' 75-90 gear oil (if it has a posi inside, then you'll want to add in the proper additive). for the life of me I don't remember where the fill plug is. :hmm: and the truck is over at my grandma's. poke your head around and I'm sure you'll find it. :thumbsup:

I'd still love to see some photos of what's all going on under there. :thumbsup:

maybe they added it for the same reason I put one in my sister's Grand Marquis, to strengthen the rearend in the event of a collision. :dunno:

Yeah, Rick was a HUGE help in the infancy of the internet. always willing to help out his fellow Jeeper in any way he could. He had one of the first sites dedicated to MJs and was one of the first to do actual how-tos on the projects he did. :cheers: When he invited me to Moab in 05, I just had to go. screw the cost, the 48 hours of driving, and the high odds of being stranded on the side of the highway, I was going to make it if I had to walk. :D Best vacation ever. (that's Carly in the foreground, my co-pilot for the trip) the following weekend he led a trip up into the mountains by his home. here he is watching me chug my way through the mud. and hanging some rubber:

do you have power at the resistor pack?

all 87s will have the appropriate body mods for the 4.0L. the change happened late in the 86 model year. trust me, we're here for ya if you go with the 4.3. :thumbsup: It's not about "keeping it Jeep", but rather many of us have seen guys go down the 4.3 road and we know that buying a wrecked XJ will give you just about everything you need for a 4.0 conversion (depending on the year of the XJ). Do you have the 4.3 wire harness?

holy crap. on a good day I can get the same highway out of my 5.9 dak. :ack:

yup, novak and advance should have everything you need. except for exhaust beyond the headers and maybe driveshafts. The vortec v6 might cost a pretty penny to get it installed, but they make decent power. :thumbsup:

a 2" lift can be done with minimal fuss and minimal cost and you can fit 31s on stock rims. If costs are a concern, it's a good way to go. :thumbsup: Costs and headaches go up exponentially as lift height increases. Going 3"+ means brake lines, shocks, control arms, sway bar links, etc. all need to be reevaluated.

keep us posted. :thumbsup:

they didn't invest much, that's for sure. :rotfl2: they were mostly a stop-gap until the 4.0 showed up. they carry a similar failure mode as the dana 35 and peugeot transmission. abuse or neglect them, and they will surely blow up sooner rather than later. take good care of them, and they might just blow up on you anyway. :yes:

I'm assuming you're referring to the bumpstop. you may need to get a pipe wrench in there and unscrew the lower metal portion. can't member for sure.

that's with aftermarket rims. stock rims will prevent rubbing on the fenders, but cause a small amount of rubbing on the control arms at full turn. this is fixed with either a washer behind the steering stop, or with WJ lower control arms (the ones with a clearance bend in them). 31s on a stock 4wd MJ with stock backspaced rims:

right in front of the passengers left shin. accessed with two 8mm screws.

I mean, I'm trying to picture how a re-arch of the leafs pushed the axle that far forward. is the tire pushed forward in the wheel well? is the axle spring over or spring under? did you get lift out of the rework of the leafs? but to answer your question, the overload leaf can be considered just another leaf in the pack. if your perches have extra holes for shifting the axle forward or back, then you should be able to make use of them no problemo. :thumbsup:

it's one of those things that's easier said than done. especially if the truck is rusty. getting the coils in and out can be a real bear. coil compressors will make the job much easier (relatively speaking), but be very careful with them. If I'm not mistaken, autozone will loan out coil compressors.