Pete M

consider it zapped. :D yes, need more pics. preferably outside in the sunlight. :yes:

yes he is a member: viewtopic.php?f=3&t=27594

if everything else works, then it could be that the linkage just needs adjusting or that your plastic bushings need replacing.

just wait til you get the shop bill. :(

It's just a small lip of rubber that comes off the bearing assembly. mine tore apart the first time I pulled the axle shafts out (the bronco hadn't moved in a decade or so when I bought it and everything was dry-rotted). find a shop that can install them first. and can install them properly. They press on, but there's no obvious stopping point. They have to measure and match the current bearings. Otherwise your axle shaft will stick out or be pulled in by however much they were off. Timken makes quality stuff. :thumbsup: http://broncograveyard.com/bronco/i-123 ... aring.html their ad says it's commonly used with aftermarket axle shafts, so if I were you I would call them just to confirm it'll work on stock ones too (I'm pretty sure it will).

the axle seal is integral with the bearing. in other words, to change the seal, you have to change the bearings. and they have to be pressed on by a machine. I had mine done at a local shop. and yes, it is big bearing. all 9" from 78+ were (and some earlier ones under F-150s.) If you do swap out the bearings, go with the 79 tapered bearing rather than the 78 flat roller bearing.

only the CAD works on vacuum. the t-case shifts with the lever. :thumbsup:

any hole in the firewall. The old seals are all likely poor.

When I bought my 90, it was stuck in 4wd hi. Between my friend yanking on the handle and me underneath with an adjustable wrench directly on the lever, we were able to get it into 2wd for the drive home from the seller. Turns out that the lever itself was rusted solid in the cab. How's the floor look underneath where the linkage is? any rust?

I went with a stock Cherokee prop valve for the front of my 90 (double booster added and rear prop deleted.). seems to work just fine. :thumbsup:

I assume you gave him a club card?

good point. forgot to ask when you were checking it. The pump only gets voltage for about a second after the key is turned to run, and then anytime the engine is either cranking or running. If none of those things are going on and you're reading a voltage, then it's the sending unit's voltage, not the pump's.

ya know, we aren't staring at a computer screen 24/7. it just seems that way. :D In theory the voltage should be 12 at startup, but in reality it's more like 10 on an old truck due to corrosion and other voltage drop. 6.5 is still really low. I would clean up the ground behind the drivers side taillight. the pump in my 88 grounds there.

the internet is awesome. :D

I think Australia might be further.

86 was the odd year out when it comes to standardization. It very well could have come with 3.55s.

all depends on which is in better shape. all things being equal, I'd go for the 94k one. But if the higher mileage one has much newer brakes, then that one.

swap someone local for their regular 4x4 coils/leafs. but crappy shocks will give a harsh ride. I'd start with the pucks and shackles and shocks and see what happens. if it's still rough (you bought a truck, remember?) then try for different springs. I wouldn't start there though, as you could go through a ton of effort with no noticeable change.

If you're doing a 2" lift, then I would stick with shocks rated for 0-3" lifts. shocks rated simply for 3" lifts would also work.

wait, why are you getting new coils? what is your end goal here? the more you pay, the better the shocks. I'd go with gas charged.

It was done as a way of getting better MPGs (which is doesn't) and reducing wear and tear on the front drivetrain (which it doesn't). Jeep dumped it altogether in the early 90s. So if you lock the CAD permanently, it simply makes it like all later model Jeeps that came with a one-piece axle shaft in there. :thumbsup:

quality MJs can be hard to find, I'd certainly hang on to it until there was a shortbed 5spd sitting next to it in the driveway. :D

there is a connector in the harness located right behind the drivers side rear tire that might be causing your issue. I had corrosion in that connector that killed my brake lights. cleaning might work, but for my truck I needed to splice in a new generic connector from the auto parts store. also, make doubly sure the bulbs are the correct dual filament bulb.

yes, the smaller the backspacing number, the more the tires will push out the side. anything past 4" and you're probably going to have tire in your fender when turning. and yes, the wheel size can increase all you want and as long as the backspacing and outer tire diameter remain constant, everything will work the same. :thumbsup:

any tubular control arm will certainly help as it doesn't have that lip of steel on the side to catch the tire lugs. :thumbsup: but there still might be some rub. it just won't be as loud as it would with stock arms. I've picked up a couple of pair of WJ (99-04 grand cherokee) LCAs for under 30 bucks at the junkyards. some examples of: spacers: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/84-01-Je ... 3363d48b46 shackles: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/99-06-CH ... 3a61c18757