mjeff87

there's on on a 2WD Renix MJ down at my local yard I've been meaning to go back down and snag.....just haven't had time. It's in good shape other than the pulley face being a bit rusty. I need to roadtrip to PA and won't be back until Sunday, but if I get back early enough I'll run down and grab it for ya. Jeff

Let's see them Christmas lights guys...... I'll start Image Not Found :D Jeff

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that's my favorite place to look in on XJ's in the junkyard.....I'm not gonna get rich ever, but I've managed to find lots of change there :cheers: Yeah..I'm that cheap.... Jeff

yup....the older I get, the more I subscribe to that Jeff

got a set locally last night.....thanks anyway Paul. Mods, please delete this post if possible. Jeff

to install that Dakota line "correctly" you have to drill out and retap the bolt hole that is currently holding your stock line/junction block to the tube. The Dakota line is a bit different in that it utilizes that bolt also as the vent (it's a hollow bolt). I drilled out the small stock vent hole and tapped it to the Dakota bolt thread size/pitch while I was building the axle on a bench and the axleshafts were out, so I was able to catch all the metal shavings inside the tube when I did it. I also shortened it a bit so it cleared the axleshaft inside the tube. There are other methods to attach the junction block to the tube (zipties, band clamps, etc) if you don't want to bother doing all that, though. Jeff Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found

third digit is "type".....in this case, yours is a 7, which means "truck" :cheers: Pictures are worth a thousand words, as Jim points out correctly that build sheets can be buggy..... Jeff

89 would be Renix, not HO. You could have either an AX15 or a BA10/5 tranny, as 89 was the transition year to AX15....post a pic of it if you can and we can tell you what it is. And a 4.0 with stick is almost bound to have 3.07 gears in it (if the axle hasn't been swapped). Jeff

the ninth character should be a "0" (zero) not an "O". -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- VIN : 1J7FT36L0KL566047 Symbol 1 J 7 F T 3 6 L 0 K L 5 6 6 0 4 7 Position 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 Position Symbol Name Value 1 1 Country : USA 2 J Manufacturer: Jeep (USA) 3 7 Type: TRUCK 4 F GVWR (Gross Vehicle Weight Rating ) : 1819-2272 kg 5 T Model: Cherokee - 2WD 6 3 Series: PIONEER 7 6 Body type Comanche, 2-door pick-up 8 L Engine 4,0 litres, I-6 9 0 Control digit: Has passed check 10 K Year: 1989 11 L Plant: Toledo #1 12-17 566047 Serial number 566047 Control (check) digit calculation Symbol 1 J 7 F T 3 6 L 0 K L 5 6 6 0 4 7 Numeric value: 1 1 7 6 3 3 6 3 * 2 3 5 6 6 0 4 7 Weight factor: 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 10 * 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 Products: 8 7 42 30 12 9 12 30 * 18 24 35 36 30 0 12 14 The sum of all 16 products : 319 319 divided by 11 gives a remainder 0 Another words, 319 =( 29 x 11) + 0 Thus, on 9-th position of a VIN-code there should be a symbol 0

Anyone have a set of stock TJ end links lying around they want to get rid of? Both of mine are shot. The top mounting stud is a ball-joint style (late model XJ ones may be the same, I'm not sure?) If anyone has a set they're willing to part with, lemme know. Thanks, Jeff

:USAflag:

when you start the teardown, take the new RMS and place both halves in a shallow pan and submerge them in new oil. Let them soak in it while you rip it all apart. To install the new upper half (after you cuss and moan getting the old one out), start one end of it in the upper bearing half and rotate the crank slowly via the harmonic balancer bolt ( a second set of hands helps with this) while you feed the new seal in and around. Make sure it's centered, then install the lower half in the bottom bearing cap and apply a small dab of RTV outboard of the rear seal surface. Let it tack for about 5 minutes, then install the bearing cap. Jeff

"if you ain't first, you're last......." :yes: Jeff

ummmm....I got a WICKED shimmy in my front end from 13-18 mph, but only when it's wet outside. I'm runnin' a LP D30 with a Rusty's trackbar, two stabilizers, slotted rotors, F150 coils with the last coil wrap cut off (did it with my sawzall and a 12-pak, Hell's yeah! ), and YJ brake lines and I can't get rid of it! What do you recommend???? I'm thinkin' of flipping the Gabriel gasmatics over and adding a couple pounds of airsoft pellets to the front tires to see if it'll help. Think it'll work? edit: airsoft pellets are on backorder at JC Whitney (must be 'cause of Christmas or something, IDK). I can get a contractor pack of 3/8" hex nuts (should I go grade 5 or 8????) from Lowe's and try them if you think that'll work :dunno: j/k.....congrats on your certs :cheers: You can never have enough knowledge. Jeff

I call this one Pingpong..... Jeff

I'm running a Tomken front bumper that's only 1/8", and I have absolutely zero faith in it's ability to not crush like a soda can if I ever ran into something with it. I only got it because a guy was selling it for cheap (he needed cash) and it has a receiver in it. If you are looking for protection, go thicker than 1/8" Jeff

if you can locate a 2.5 overflow resivoir, you can run it instead of the HO one.....it tucks nicely between the airbox and the fender on the driverside with a few minor mods. I swapped a 4.0 drivetrain into my 2.5 MJ and retained the 2.5 overflow because I didn't want to move the coil/PDC stuff. All you really need to do is relocate (or eliminate in my case) the EGR solenoid and associated vaccuum system, and tuck the wiring harness loom under the airbox carefully. And relocate (or eliminate) the fuel pump ballast resistor ;) Jeff

pull your rear driveshaft and clean up the splines in the slip yoke, apply a light coat of grease and reinstall. Jeff

here's a shot of the AX15 crossmember in my MJ. See the notched out part in the center where the tranny mount attaches.... Jeff Image Not Found

it uses the same tranny mount as the AW4, but it sits about 1" higher on the crossmember. The specific AX15 crossmember is notched out in the center where the mount attaches (I've got a pic I'll post up when I find it). Without the notched out section, the TC linkage doesn't align at all, and the cat converter/intermediate pipe/flange is pushed up flush with the floorboard. You can ghetto it and it'll still work, or you can install a TC drop to make up the difference, but the correct way is to use the crossmemeber designed to work specifically with the AX15 :cheers: Jeff

McLovin' it..... Jeff

no you didn't just go there Rob...... <> Jeff

in short, yes.....the Xmember is the same part for the AX4/5, BA10/5 and the AW4. Only the AX15 takes a different one. You'll most likely have to move the Xmember up to the front set of holes on the framerails, and you may or may not have to pound out the outer studs on the rails. Rig the whole driveline up and mount the Xmember to the tranny mount, then jack it all up and see which mounting holes line up. Jeff

Joe....I'll take it as my sworn duty to hoist several in your name :D Paul....you are my new hero :cheers: Jeff