mjeff87

For those that knew Woody and might not have seen this on NAXJA or Pirate....he has passed away. I don't know any details, but there is a service tomorrow in NC. Family is taking donations.....check the posts over on NAXJA in Off-Topic or PBB in Chit Chat. Woody was a great guy, and a great Jeeper. He will be missed by many. Rest easy, Don. :USAflag: Jeff edit: Paypal link: Mandylou24@excite.com

There are different trans tunnel cover plates for each type of transmission. They screw to the floor, easy swap/install....but you have to remove the carpeting/cargo mat to access all of the screw holes. Here's an example, AX5 on left, AX15 (the one you need) on right: Image Not Found Jeff

FWIW, I swapped a 4.0 into my 87, which was a 2.5 (with C101 under the hood). I used a 4.0 underhood harness from an 89 MJ, plus the ECU from same. After much research, I determined that the cab harness was nearly identical between the two, and everything worked 100% except I had to install a new HVAC fan motor because the 89 harness had a different connector (I could have spliced the wires but didn't). The 89 harness did NOT have the C101 connector, the wiring to the ECU ran thru a grommet in the firewall (already there). The ECU is not a part of the cab harness, at all. HTH, Jeff

X3 on clutch and drive. My old 2.5 had near 200K on it when I swapped it out with a 4.0. Ended up swapping it into PingPong's MJ, and he drove it for another 20K or so then sold it. New owner ran it for 2 years, give or take, and it FINALLY died when a welch plug started leaking and the owner kept topping off the system with water only (no coolant). One cold VA night took it's toll and the block cracked. <<sheds tears>> The only thing I ever did inside that engine was pull the lifters and clean/reinstall them. Jeff

meh.....I ran mine like that for a couple of years. Ghetto-fab? Yup. But it worked :rotfl2: Jeff

2WD rear spring packs will net @ 1" less lift on an SOA compared to a stock 4WD pack, but you're still gonna be over 3". XJ shackles would help keep you lower, but may invert. Jeff

One time, I may or may have not been screwing around during an FTX, in a Jeep with a couple of others, trying to follow some tank trails.....didn't know where we were, nor did we care LOL. Ended up on the outskirts of a flyover firing range (uprange, thankfully), when a group of A10's rolled over a hillside and did a high speed run down the range. We pretty much got the h*ll out of there, quickly. Jeff

It's a GM column, so you can probably get one from a GM parts department. Chryco part # is J448 6713.

Where are you located? I can check my parts pile to see if I still have mine....PM me if you want. Jeff

To be truthful, I kinda hated mine.....all black interior, with no A/C and a sunroof in sunny VA does not a good combination make. I actually blocked mine off with a sheet of cardboard, LOL. Jeff

yep, only one. If yours is plugged in, that's not it. edit: I can see your pic on my iPad but not on my desktop (weird....). Definitely looks like the CPS connector to me, but yours is plugged in, so......I dunno :) Jeff

I can't see the picture, but the O2 sensor connector is back there as well. Is it a flat 3-pin connector?

I saw a picture of a pedal assembly on one of the other Jeep sites (JU or similar) that showed that clip installed, but damned if I can remember where it was. The post was about how to disassemble the whole pedal assembly (to put a new pedal on) and showed how to take out the crosspin that the top of the pedal swings on. There's a nut on the end that you unscrew and then the whole pin/bolt thingy slides out....that spring was attached to the pin and it clipped over the flat side of the pedal arm. I'll keep looking for it.....hopefully I'll find it eventually. Jeff

X2......this was the 2.5L in my TJ when the head gasket went (the first time, LOL). Between #2 and #3 (same as 3-4 on a 4.0). Coincidentally, the one head bolt on the intake side of the block right there was CEMENTED into place due to high heat. I had an exhaust manifold crack on the inside right next to the block that I never knew about. Image Not Found Image Not Found

^^^nice setup Scott I removed as much of the vacuum harness as possible on my 87. It really cleans up the engine bay..... Image Not Found

yes, clutch pedal spring. Trying to find a decent picture of one to show you how it attaches, not having much luck. edit: I had one in my Photobucket account, when I swapped pedal assemblies..... Image Not Found

CRC electrical contact cleaner, with a drip pan underneath the block. Spray the bejesus out of it. It is safe on plastics: http://www.crcindustries.com/ei/product_detail.aspx?id=03070

It's factory, used in the engine assembly line process....there's another one at the front of the block adjacent to the timing cover as well. There is/was a TSB out for it calling for a plug, if you are so inclined..... http://www.freewebs.com/powellskater12/044259.pdf edit: I never bothered with mine, it never caused me any problems.

That's where the TCU wiring harness runs on autos. I'd check a junkyard for any manual XJ/MJ, there's a hard rubber plug that goes there on manuals.

Those go to a vacuum actuator on the front axle, passenger side. The axleshaft on that side is a two piece configuration, and when you shift into 4WD the actuator slides a shift fork over to engage the two axleshafts together via a collar. Without it functioning correctly, you will not have 4WD. Do a search on "CAD" or Central Axle Disconnect.....there are a few different ways to (cheaply) bypass the whole vacuum contraption altogether. Easiest way is to pop the actuator off the axle housing, slide the coupler over both axleshafts and push/pull the shift fork over until it engages the collar and then bolting it back on. In theory, it "shouldn't" ever move from that position, but for peace of mind you can lock the fork into position with hose clamps or the circlips that hold it onto the shift rod (there's 3 of them, you have to pop them off and reseat them when things line up, pretty simple once you see the insides of it). You could also flip the whole actuator around 180 degrees and reinstall it with the collar engaged, but that didn't work for me (it was just a tad off being lined up to my liking). Jeff

If I could fit a 2.5L in the back of a Ford Escort and drive it 600 miles, you can get a 4.0 in the trunk of a Crown Vic, LOL :)

Braided line and adapters from AA......cost about $40 total. Mine was an external slave, but with a couple fittings you could adapt it to the internal line. They make 2 different sizes, I opted for the longer one and had to loop it before the transmission: Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found

Thanks for the follow up, I wish more would do the same. I had a Swiss-cheesed line on my fuel pump also...drove me insane trying to diagnose it.

Yup.......if you flip the MJ plates you will need realllly short shocks. This was mine, the shocks were for some kind of small pickup (bought them by size out of a book). No real articulation, and I had moderate axle wrap as well. Image Not Found Image Not Found

Your setup is a bit different than mine was, my alt bracket sat on top of the alt and a bit lower than how yours is. This is a stock 87 non-AC setup, with the non-AC rad hose: Image Not Found Looks like you might have room, but I don't know about the pulley on yours.... edit: thinking about it some more, you probably need the non-AC alternator bracket. Should be easy to find, most 2.5's I've ever come across didn't have AC. I have the A/C bracket, as I was going to mount a compressor on mine for an OBA system, but never did: Image Not Found Image Not Found