mjeff87

The pedal assembly is 100% bolt in. The problem comes in with working on your head on the floorboard getting the old one out and the new one in. It's not difficult per se, just a PITA maneuvering things around in a very tight, uncomfortable place. At least it was for me, lol. edit: rereading my post and I can see how confusing I worded it, sorry. What I meant as the bracket that holds the plunger switch is not bolted to the pedal assembly, it's welded. I thought I could just grab the bracket off a junkyard XJ/MJ and bolt it on to my old assembly...no dice. That would have been too easy, and made perfect sense. Too bad the engineers decided to weld it on instead of bolting it on :mad:

LOL, I *had* a real nice picture of the one I scabbed into mine....before the photobucket debacle. I deleted my whole account a little too quickly, LOL. EDIT: the bracket that holds the contact switch is welded to the updated pedal assembly. It's not bolt-on, and you would either have to swap the entire assembly (which is what I did, and is easily one of the top 10 PITA things I ever did on my MJ......) or fab up a bracket of your own to hold the switch. Once the switch is mounted, clip the wires to your old switch and splice them to the white and pink wires on the new switch.

Going off of memory, I want to say it's the pink and the white wire.

Total thread hijack, but to all you Navy guys out there today. Never forget December 7th. There's a great article in my local paper today about Carl Vinson, and the great vision he had for our fleet, which was the eventual demise of the Japanese.

I watched it....it was a beautiful night. Hauling azz is an understatement. Almost as fast as my KJ

I *think* I still have a spare NSS in my parts pile in the shed, from an 88-89 XJ (I just saw it hanging off an AW4 in the junkyard one day and grabbed it...all my junk was manual but I couldn't just leave it there, lol). If you need it, I can see if I still have it (likely) and send it to ya

Holy *%#$& Greg.....you got a real butcher shop going on there in your fuseblock The dash light circuit is tied into the rear lighting circuit, all controlled by the 5 amp "INST PNL" fuse in the block...check that first. The genius engineer theory back in the day was that if your rear lights went out you wouldn't know, so they tied the circuit to the dash panel. If your dash lights died, you would then know your rear end was dark. Heh. Not sure if the backup lights are on the same circuit, but that would be a start.

I agree, I own a few of them BUT.....my junkyards won't let me bring in anything that could cause a spark. They'll let me carry a sawzall, but not an angle grinder. (I have buried it deep inside a toolbag on more than one occasion, though......)

Yeah Dirty.....those^^^ I have 2 sets, one Irwin and one Craftsman. The Irwin's work better.

Pound a sacrificial 12 point socket onto the remnants, or try a damaged bolt head extractor.

Wow....NICE looking truck I wouldn't do anything to it. If yer really itching to change the stance, you could swap in a set of 4wd rear spring packs and add a set of 1" spacers up front, and throw a set of 30" tires on it. Jeff

LOL....I'm a Renix guy but parts is parts.....it's all just a big old swap-over. I'll get the pertinents on them and get Kenea to update the registry (or I will for her). 231 vs. 242.....I didn't think about that option. If I can't find local parts on a one-by-one basis, a wrecked out XJ would be preferable but she's an hour or so away from me and I don't have anywhere to stash a parts vehicle. Maybe we can find one local to her and keep it at her place while we work. Both MJ's are in good to excellent shape. Both have A/C and rear sliders. The Eliminator is black with full graphics (my favorite of the 2) has factory buckets and 10-hole eliminator wheels....the Sport is red, bench seat, and a 4.0 that purrs like a kitten. Both have D35's out back and gray interiors. Only problem with the Eliminator is that the engine is reported to have "0" oil pressure, but it only has like 50K miles on it! We didn't start it up as I didn't have any diagnostic equipment or tools with me and didn't want to chance anything. I'm suspecting a bad sending unit and/or gauge in the cluster, but I'll investigate that further in a little bit with a mechanical gauge and some tools. Like I said, the Sport's 4.0 roared to life and has a good 50 psi (cold). It only has like 130K miles on it too! She's got a really nice pair of MJ's there.....a few cosmetic issues (broken rear flare on the Sport) and it has a poorly replaced fender that doesn't line up properly (I think it came from an earlier model Renix MJ or XJ), and it needs a paint job. The Eliminator is crying for a pressure washer, but other than that they are SOLID. Not a speck of rust on either anywhere.......

I ran MT90 and 10-30 in mine (and also some Mobil 1 75/90 at one point).....I honestly couldn't tell any difference. FWIW, 10-30 is cheap compared to the others, and is/was my preference. Jeff

I finally got up to see Kenea and het TWO 92 MJ's that she has. This can be a relatively easy project, depending on how we approach it. MJ #1 is a 92 Elimanator, auto. MJ #2 is a 92 Sport with an Ax15 (both 2WD). Goal is to create one 4WD with auto. Easy way is to convert the Elimanator to 4WD, but the Sport is in better shape and is her preference. Not an issue to swap all of the harness and associated little bits from the Elimanator over and then do the conversion, and then swap all the other bits back to the Eliminator to get it running again as a 2WD manual. I/we need the 4WD bits though......AW4 in 4WD, D30 with 3.55's, a 231, front and rear shafts, and the TC shifter bits and pieces. Anybody local-ish with some spare parts lying around? I sold off ALL my MJ/XJ crap when I sold mine off and don't have really anything left to help with the project. We can pull stuff from the junkyard to get us going, but I'd rather get stuff from friends who already have it lying around

Disconnect the O2 sensor, drive it and see if it makes a difference.

^^^you owe me a beer....(for the one I just spit all over my iPad, LOL).

The Renix harness is basically two separate harnesses that come together right around the area of damage in the OP's picture. One section is from the C100 (that huge plug at the firewall where it connects to the dash harness and fuse box^^^) down along the driverside inner fender and across the vehicle @ the radiator support. A separate sub-harness plugs into it behind the driver side headlamp for the front end lighting. The other section runs from the ECU through the firewall (or C101 connector, depending on year) across the back of the firewall over to the relay center, where it connects via several flat connectors to the other harness. The ECU-end harness has a sub-harness for the TCU, which runs back through the firewall to the passenger side dash knee bolster panel. It is hardwired, not attached via connectors. Depending on where the damage is, you would have to replace one or the other sections of harness (once you figure out what caused the damage in the first place).

Disconnect the braided ground strap from the back head bolt to the firewall, it's probably holding the engine from dropping fully.

Jeff Bezos = Amazon founder/CEO Morris = Morris 4x4 (https://www.morris4x4center.com/)

Like Don says, the AX4/5 and AW4 crossmembers are the same, the AX15 is different. The center dips @1" to properly locate the driveline. You can use the other xmember with an AX15 but you'll have clearance issues, your exhaust might not be happy, and your TC linkage will definitely not line up. I learned this all the hard way. You could probably use the other xmember with a drop kit/spacers if you really wanted to, or were unable to locate an AX15 one. Also, you'll need the specific AX15 TC shifter bracket (the one that bolts to the tunnel) as well as the shorter AX15 TC shift rod for the TC shifter assembly to fit and work correctly, assuming you're staying all stock parts. The little "heim" ball that the shift pivot rod slips thru is positioned at the rear of the bracket for the AX15, but is centered for all of the other trannys.

As the thread title says, I can't get the site to "remember me" when I log in. For unrelated reasons, I had to clear all of my cookies and temp files on my PC a couple days ago, and that caused me to be logged out of CC. Now, when I try to log back in (which I can do successfully.....) the little checkbox on the login screen to stay logged in does nothing when I click it. It doesn't check itself, change color, nothing, nada. Each time I close my browser I get automatically logged out of CC and have to keep relogging in. HALP!

I PM'd you back (albeit very late.....). I'm done with PB, screwem. I still have some of the pics on my home PC.....shoot me a pm if yer looking for something specific. Email me at mjeff87@comcast.net too. edit: I stayed all renix with my swap....I went from 87-2.5 to 89-4.0 so I didn't change management systems. It's simpler that way. If you want to go OBDII (or later), I can't really comment

Just an interesting tidbit......look at the screwheads on the face of the speedo. They will either be slotted or Phillips. The slotted screwhead speedo takes the plastic clip cable end, and the Phillips takes the metal one. Or visa-versa....it's been awhile and I'm going off my (failing) memory

Don....you make me blush, lol Kenea, I PM'd you back. If you're around on Sunday, I'll be passing thru your area. Maybe we can meet up and figure out a plan. Jeff

Orly?.. where in the heck have you been dude? Great to "see" you again you better not ever get rid of your MJ, we both got a lot of sweat equity into your rear spring hangers. LOL.