mjeff87

As a Nova freak, that thing makes me sad. Although it is the later body style (73+) so it's not THAT much of a loss But yes.....I would drive/wheel it. I bet it has mad amounts of axle wrap, though. LOL.

Long time ago I snapped off the MAT sensor flush with the intake manifold on my 2.5, much in the same way as your OPS there. I ended up using a set of flat fluted extractors to get the remnants out. I just pounded one into the remains and it spun right out using a small crescent wrench on the end of the extractor. You might try one of those if all else fails. Jeff edit: like these.....https://shop.tifco.com/Catalog/id/11836

Dumb question, but I'll ask it anyway. Wouldn't you in effect have a manual steering vehicle with an electric engine? (no power assisted anything). Watching that Zuk maneuver got me to thinking about how much that might suck trying to change front wheel position, especially on anything heavier than a Zuk or anything turning a wheel over 28" or so. Especially when not moving.

Can you explain that a bit more? I fiddled around with it for a couple hours yesterday (along with getting the Homelink button to play nice with my GDO). It did work correctly the very first time I drove after installing, and I was tickled pink. But, thereafter, every time I started it up and drove the locks auto-locked promptly at 20 mph Thanks!

Pete, I grabbed a factory harness from the yard today from an 03.....they didn't even charge me for it

Success, then failure. Grabbed a new EVIC from the yard today from an 02 WJ (56042749AF).....got it all swapped in (had to trim the headliner a bit) ans the rolling locks STILL function, even after I set the auto-lock to NO with it. I'm just gonna go to another dealership to see if their service department can disable it with a scan tool. Damnit.

I found a good writeup online that has the EVIC part numbers for WJ's from 1999-2004. My KJ has the Homelink in it, so it looks like I need to find any one of the following: 1999-2000 : 56042271AD (which superseded 56042271AB and 56042271AC) 2001: 56042749AB (which superseded 56042749AA) 2002: 56042749AF (which superseded 56042749AE) 2003: 56042749AH (replaced 56042749AG) ***2003 models do not have the instant MPG display, which I don't use anyway 2004: 56042749AJ Any problem with using a different year unit in my 2002 if that's all I can find? I wouldn't think so, but.....

^^^all I got in 1987 was "Roman Catholic" stamped on my dogtags.....

Really? Holy %*#!, I can't believe it's that simple. thanks man.....any part #'s you can provide would be great i don't need need any other function other than being able to disable the rolling locks, but I'll take what I can get.

Joshua....do you want to play a game? What's he doing? "he's learning" The best move....is not to play at all.

It depends what I'm shopping for. If I'm just on a scouting mission I go in with a combo screwdriver, knife and a 10mm Once I know what I'm gonna need for extraction, I go back and get it. The problem I have is 1000 other people coming up to me asking to borrow tools because they're too lazy to drag all their crap inside to do their work. I don't mind lending out a tool to 2 to someone who needs them, but when that loan ends up taking a half hour because they're trying to take out an engine with just my crescent wrench, I've got a problem with that. I only carry bare essentials anymore.

Sir Sam, Pete, Pat.......anybody with KJ knowledge....I needs some help please. One of the few things that bug the crap out of me on my KJ is the "rolling door locks". When I hit 15 mph all the doors and rear gate locks lock. Some idiot engineer needs shot for coming up with this brilliant idea On the late production 02's and from there on up, you can disable this function via the overhead EVIC console, but lucky me has the Stone Age OTIS console that is dumb and can't control that. Reading up on the internets (and there is a woefully huge lack of good tech forums for KJ's), the dealership can disable the rolling locks with a scan tool or some such. My local dealers service writer looked at me like I had 3 heads when I asked him if they could fix this for me. Color me surprised, lol. Is there any way I can disable them on my own, or short of that, what are the magic words I need to say to the dealership to get them to do it? I don't mind paying an hour of labor time to the dealership to do this...I hate it that bad. TIA, Jeff

Where are you located? If you're anywhere reasonably close to southwest PA, I've got a complete '87 2.5L sitting in a barn up there. You can have it for free if you can get it. Jeff

Pete....... If you come across one, PM me and I'll hook you up. Frank....wow....thanks for the tip! I didn't think they were that inexpensive. If I can't get one from the 'yard, etrailer looks like a great option. Jeff

Pete.....if you ever see a decent KJ hitch wiring assembly in your 'yards and don't mind it, could you pick one up for me? I had the free OEM hitch installed on mine but no wiring, and I'd like to be able to hook up trailer lights if I ever pull one. I'd rather install a plug/play harness instead of cobbling some aftermarket stuff together and all the KJ's I've seen at my yards either don't have the harness or they're hashed.

Good luck up there Tim.......and just so you know, there's supposed to be yet ANOTHER storm coming this weekend. Down here, we had mostly rain all day yesterday but the fun started around 0600 this morning with a sleet storm. That quickly changed over to all snow and it's POUNDING down right now. Forecast for all-day accumulation here was 1-2 inches, and we've already got that and it's only been snowing for about 1.5 hours. I'm betting we end up with a solid 5-6 inches here before it's all over.

Yessir, I did.

IIRC, the '86 alternator bracketry is quite different than the '87+ versions. I had the whole bracket setup once to use for an OBA setup but scrapped the idea (mine was an 87 and I was trying to retrofit it. Like yxmj says, you need to pull the battery plus the battery tray to get full access. The actual Jenga game is easier to play than trying to get the alternator out/in. edit: also, when you get it changed check your battery. When my alt died in my '87, it took out my battery too. That was a bad day....

Yes. You'll need the crossmember, and pretty much the entire shift linkage except for the actual shift lever assembly that bolts inside the cab. You will need the opposite side of that assembly (the part that bolts to the underside of the trans tunnel).

<<Nelson voice>>ON HA HA! You said prOject.... <<off>> J/K. Awesome vid, if a little long. I did have to pause it to get another beer Lighting, camera angles, narration....perfect. For when I do get an XJ, shipping to 23831? Good job, man.

02, the original. Lol. no rush, I've been dealing with this damn dash rattle for a couple years now. It only happens in the fall/winter, when the temp drops. Come warm season it goes away. But it always comes back every year

Gotcha, thanks. My humble opinion, that wheel looks good with the matching woodgrain dash pieces, but kind of sticks out against a plain dash. On a completely different note, do you know how to pop the passenger side airbag dash panel off (the one above the glovebox)? I've got the most god-awfully annoying dash squeak/rattle coming from somewhere in that area that's driving me insane and I need to peek inside the dash behind that panel, but I don't want to A) break it trying to remove it, and B) accidentally deploy the airbag and Takata my face off....

late to this party, but question.....why did you swap? My KJ 'wheel looks just like the WJ one you swapped in but the woodgrain part is all wrapped like the rest of the wheel. Was your KJ wheel different, or were you actually going for the woodgrain look? Apologies if you covered this somewhere else.....I'm just curious. That top part of my wheel is getting a little soft/the wrap is starting to loosen up a bit, and it's bugging me. I want to replace it, but not sure what my options are. I've been driving this darn thing for 4+ years now and know about squat about it, LOL.

For the center bolts I've used a combination of short extensions with a universal joint, in 1/4" drive, to get them started. You don't have a lot of throw on the ratchet, like 3-4 clicks, and it takes awhile. The smaller 1/4" extension fits better between the runners. Once you have them snugged up, switch to a 3/8" drive socket or box end wrench for final tightening. And there are only 2 studs, not 3 (unless someone modified yours previously). There's a stud at the front and at the rear that hold the ends of the exhaust manifold to the head. All the rest of the fasteners are bolts, and all use Bellville washers. The studs use normal flat washers.

That's the kind of place where stuff like ftpiercecraker1's rear window tech is gonna go. It IS epic. LOL.