mjeff87

Just triple-checking, but better to be sure than not..... I know YJ tranny flange bolt holes are clocked differently in the rear section than an XJ/MJ, but are the BH's the same? and is there any difference between the bolt patterns on a 4.0 and a 4.2? (I'm a 2.5 guy, ya know :D ) Buddy of mine in PA has a Sahara YJ and a cracked BH and can't find a replacement (...a couple places even told him it's all a 1 pc trans and the BH isn't removable :nuts: ) Trying to help him out via the junkyard and snagging one from an XJ/MJ. If a YJ does ever land in there, it's nothing but a frame within a day :cry: TIA, Jeff

I just got back in town from a funeral for one of my best friend's (from high school) mom. She was 61 yrs old and passed away from lung cancer, and she never smoked a cigarette in her life. Everyone please take a moment and share it with the significant people in your lives. You never know when they're not gonna be there.... Jeff

Lemme know when you get back in the Old Dominion. The first round (at least) is on me! (<- my new favorite smiley :brows: ) Jeff

No, it's an independant tractor tire place up in Johnstown, PA called the Tire Clinic. I support locals I'm heading up there tomorrow (unexpectedly....death in the family) I'll see if they have a price/size listing. I know my bro was gonna get a set of AT caps for his '02 Dakota, 265/16's or something close to that, and they priced them at around $42/ea. It's not the kind of place that ships stuff, though.... Jeff edit: those prices include mount/balance and new valve stems, too :nuts:

They're recaps More of a "winter" tread than an AT, they don't clean themselves very well (or as much as I'd like them to), but they're 6 ply sidewalls. Once I get the new axles underneath I'm stepping up to 31's. Probably gonna go 'caps again, too. I get them from a shop in Johnstown that does tractor tires, about $30 each. Jeff

I'm good for either date. If anyone's coming from the east (Eagle), I can meet up with you on the PA turnpike and steer you in :D Jeff

This is the best pic I could get. See the slit of daylight shining thru? From the outside (you really can't see it): Image Not Found from underneath: Image Not Found

I can't help but ask how you know that..... :rotf: Jeff

No, in the front. Imagine looking straight on at the mount, like |_| with the CA pointing toward you. It's seperating in the bottom inside corner :cry: yeah, but with my luck I'll end up esploding my pretty new yellow top :(

It's not actually seperating from the frame, but rather from itself. On the bottom corner where it's boxed. Kinda hard to describe, I'll snap a pic of it tonight and post it up. Jeff

I've been trying to talk my wife into coming along, but she's not game. She's not a very out-doorsey type person, so I'll be solo. Any updates on this? Jeff

Gotta love them second gen Escorts (I've got a 94 that's my DD). Glad to hear you're healing up :cheers: Jeff

I've been tryin to track down a looseness/thumping in the front end, and think I've finally found it. Seems like the driver side LCA mount is seperating on the bottom side. I couldn't find it because I've got gobs of undercoating (and mud) sprayed all over it :oops: Anyways, would there be any bad effects to the electrical system it if I get it welded? Pulling the battery is an obvious, but should I pull the ECU as well? I'll get a pic of it.....it's not that bad, but it's only gonna get worse if I don't do something to it. TIA, Jeff

Hey....that's on my cousin's lot! I'm going up to Johnstown this week, maybe I'll swing by and check it out. Jeff

From the '88 FSM: (note the difference between auto and manual) THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR (TPS) NOTE: Adjustment of TPS only applies to the 4.0L models. It may be necessary to remove throttle body from intake manifold, to access sensor wiring harness. Checking & Adjusting - 4.0L (Automatic Transmission)1) Locate the square TPS connector. Note connector terminal identification stamped on the back of the connector. Turn ignition on. 2) Connect voltmeter through back of wiring harness connector. Connect negative voltmeter lead to terminal "D" and positive voltmeter lead to terminal "A" to check input voltage. DO NOT disconnect TPS connector. 3) Hold throttle plate closed against idle stop and note voltage. Input voltage should be approximately 5 volts. Disconnect voltmeter positive lead and connect to terminal "B" to measure output voltage. 4) With throttle plate closed, measure the output voltage. The output voltage should be approximately 4.2 volts. If output voltage is not within specification, loosen TPS retaining screws. 5) Partially tighten one retaining screw. Rotate TPS to obtain correct output voltage. Tighten retaining screws once correct voltage is obtained. Checking & Adjusting - 4.0L (Manual Transmission) 1) Turn ignition on. Connect voltmeter through back of wiring harness connector. Connect negative voltmeter lead to terminal "B" and positive voltmeter lead to terminal "A". DO NOT disconnect TPS connector. 2) Hold throttle plate in the closed throttle position against idle stop and note input voltage reading. Input voltage should be approximately 5.0 volts. 3) Disconnect positive lead from terminal "A" and connect to terminal "C" to check output voltage. Output voltage should be checked with throttle plates fully closed. 4) Output voltage should be approximately 0.8 volts. If output voltage is not within specification, loosen TPS bottom retaining screw and pivot sensor for a large adjustment or top retaining screw for a fine adjustment. 5) Adjust sensor to obtain correct output voltage. Tighten retaining screws. Remove voltmeter.

Reminds me of Jockey's Ridge down in OBX (you can hang glide off it, but you can't drive on it) Definately have to wear eye protection, and long sleeves are a good idea too....there's always a wind blowing up slope on it that'll sandblast your face right off.... Jeff

laughin LMAO at that one.... Welcome to the forums. To post pics you need a web hosting site to upload your pics to, then you can link to them here or post them with tags before and after the URL. I use Comanche Club Image Hosting (it's free). Jeff

everything from the bed forward will swap with a 4 dr XJ, within the same model year range (pre '97), bodywise. Junkyards are your friend. Jeff

I junkyard alot ( <--"understatement") and it kills me to see what they crush sometimes. And some vehicles I see in there make me wonder just why they were junked in the first place......must be the insurance companies these days :cry: Worst thing I ever saw was a mint condition black V12 Jaguar...full leather and real wood trim, not a scratch on it. I guess it's a good thing that the 'yards are indiscriminant, tho. They could really upcharge things if they wanted to..... Jeff

yup, it's in front of the washer resivoir. It's an open system. Jeff

I'm game for either the 12th or the 26th, whichever works better for the majority.

That can't be the one Pete....I know which one you are thinking about. He was grafting a 4 dr XJ and a longbed MJ....that thing was as long as a house. IIRC, he was having issues with concocting a rear driveshaft. Haven't heard a word about it since. Jeff edit: http://autos.ph.groups.yahoo.com/group/ ... w/3701?b=2

:chillin: Too bad the rest of the truck doesn't look so swell, though. I like to keep the mechanicals clean so I don't get (too) greasy when I'm wrenching. Jeff

Send me your pics and I'll put them up on my photobucket account and link them to here. Jeff

My 87 has a 1 in that position also.....and believe me, it ain't no special order unit :roll: (I've only ever seen one MJ that was less optioned than mine, in a junkyard once. It was so stripped it didn't even have a cigarette lighter, just a blank panel there!) Jeff