mjeff87

Due to my recent unfortunateness, and the fact that my stock rear bumper is on it's way to TX to another member, I was forced to conjure up some type of bumper so that 5-0 would leave me be :roll: (Pat, I need to modify yours so that it fits my shortbed....don't worry, this contraption is only temporary ;) ) So, for a grand total of $15 and some change, here's what you can make in about an hour with a couple pieces of 2X6, some leftover front bumper brackets, spray paint, and a license plate light from Advance Auto :D : Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found I've made some crap in my day, but I have to say I'm fairly proud of this one......simply booty-fabulicious. Jeff

Well, $20 for a new piston from AA, another few $$ for a ring set, $10 for shop/press work, $35 for a new timing belt, $50 to resurface the new head I got, $70 for the head gasket set (with new head bolts, etc...), plus an oil pan gasket and fluids. Oh yeah, add another $15 for a t-stat and gasket, and $40 for a water pump. I'm at $230 and counting :eek: plus I gots nowhere to wrench on it except my driveway (very uncool). At least, as it sits now I can still move it around if I had to (pull the plug and injector wire on the cylinder). I've already cxl'd the insurance on it and deactivated the plates at the DMV 'til I figure out what I'm gonna do. Anybody got any cheap garage space around Richmond, VA? :D Jeff

LOL Pat... :cheers: My neighbor has access to one of those nifty mini-cameras that I'm gonna fish thru the plug hole and see what the top of the slug looks like. I've got a feeling there's a hole in it. Funny thing is that the last 2 tanks of gas I ran thru it I was getting SPECTACULAR mileage....like 40-45 mpg in mixed driving. It went out in fairly short order while I was going down the road at @ 45 mph on light throttle......about 5 seconds of LOUD tinging/pinging, then a muted "thwump", then I had 3 cylinders. Luckily I was only about 4 miles from the house.....I just limped it the rest of the way :roll: Maybe I will just replace the piston (then sell it quickly LOL...). I was gonna pull the head anyway to replace it. My concern is that the bore is fubared. I won't know that until I pull the head, though. This is a case of really bad timing (both literally and figuratively). Not fun working in a pissy subdivision in your driveway! Jeff

Well, my MJ is once again my DD :roll: The engine in my '94 escort blowed up on Saturday, or at least the #1 piston did. I've got 0 compression in it (and 180 in the other three). Valvetrain is intact and functioning normally, and there's no evidence of a head gasket failure. The piston is moving in the bore, so I know it's not a snapped rod..... It pains me to do it, but I'm gonna drop the front DS, put the summer slicks back on, and unload the half ton of crap I'm carrying in the bed toolbox, so I can (hopefully) get some decent mileage with it until I can get another econo-box. Anyone wanna buy a project vehicle :D ? 94 Ford Escort, 165K miles, 1.9L AOD, hatchback.....needs engine work. Comes with a spare head and a fully mounted set of new tires. Best offer over $750..... Jeff p.s......and yes Pat, I did make it back home. It died later on. Needless to say, I didn't get the bumper mounted up Sunday :cry:

X2 on that one. I'm running one stripped one on my AX5 as we speak :oops: They strip quite easily... Jeff

There's a little spring loaded check ball that fits into an indent on the shift rail when shifted into reverse. I bet that's your problem on those two. There's a plug fitting on the rear side of the case that you remove to access the mechanism. Pull the plug and remove the spring, then fish the checkball out with a pencil magnet. You should be able to then get the case out of reverse. I've got a .pdf of the AX15 service manual somewhere on this PC, but I can't find it now. I got it off BillaVista's tech pages on Pirate. Jeff

I'll drop the link on NAXJA as well. Good luck! Jeff

Me too (hey Pat..... :lol: ). Lemme know how it works out for ya! Jeff

In short, it's possible but not as "simple" as that. The output shaft would need to be swapped out for a 2WD version as well. The 2WD extension housing is longer than the 4WD rear section, and takes a correspondingly longer shaft. That pretty much requires full case disassembly to do :( Also, the spline count is different at the output shaft end on the 2WD shaft, so he'd need a 2WD driveshaft yoke (and a longer 2WD driveshaft). I'd advise just finding a 2WD case to swap in. There's one in the 'yard down here sitting in a 95 right now, but that's a bit impractical considering location. Jeff

There's some stirrings of another Pow-wow going on over on the Yahoo board. Plans are for a badlands run (I think) this summer. Just my luck it'll be when I have my MJ down for rebuild, probably :roll: Jeff

**thread hijack** I'm looking for an open 44 carrier, 3.92 and up. Got anything? thanks, Jeff

Here ya go....hope these help you :-D Jeff Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found

I can snap a couple off of mine after work tonight and post them in the morning. Jeff

Happy (belated) birthday! Mine was a couple weeks ago :( Jeff

Can you check the fluid level in the transfer case? Sounds like it's low (or empty :shock: ) and/or the linkage is out of adjustment. Jeff

Alex, For the blower, check this link: http://www.geocities.com/chmwatson/FAQs ... k_fix.html That's a repair you can make if you want. If not, replace the whole resistor pack. HTH, Jeff

Yup. Problem isn't so much slipping (it's done that only a couple of times, but a quick shift into reverse then back to drive fixes that), but the AOD. The TC locks up waaaayy too soon, then lugs the engine to the point the whole drivetrain begins to vibrate massively. Think deathwobble, but happening to an engine :cry: I have to constantly either change the pedal position or manually downshift to unlock it until it's going fast enough. Any idea how the lockup is controlled on it? I'd like to splice in a manual switch to control it if it's easy enough (?) Jeff

Well, I'll be danged.....you learn something new every day LOL. :oops: Thanks fellas, Jeff

just reinforces my hatred of auto trannies...they run on voodoo. My DD POS has an auto that I've been babying along these last several thousand miles (knocks on wood) that has issues from time to time. I'm ashamed to admit I have no clue on what's possesing it, or how on earth to fix it. If it does finally die, I plan on converting it to a 5 speed with some help from the junkyard. To me that's infinately easier than wrenching on the mystery box behind the engine :shock: Jeff

Fan switch problem is the resistor pack/switch attached to the blower motor wiring inside the cab on the passenger side. The cab light is probably a corroded door switch on the driverside, that isn't making a good ground to complete the circuit. No comment on the CC, as I don't have that creature comfort :D Jeff

are there two different mounting positions for shocks on MJ rears? I could swear my shocks are mounted behind the axle, not in front. Those pics just looked strange to me, with the shocks in front of the axle, and I don't have my truck here with me to look at right now.....it's sorta driving me crazy :twisted: Anyone know? Jeff

I was gonna ask you how you dealt with the alignment by using a straight-thru, vs. the offset of the OEM muffler. But then I noticed your pic.....not a concern for ya, huh :lol: ? I was thinking about a cheap cherry bomb, but didn't want to tinker around with rigging up the hangers. I just buy the el cheapo universal ones that last about a year, then replace them. I got smart and started using anti-seize so I can pull them off without alot of hassle :D You might want to think about supporting the tailpipe more than just the rear hanger CW.....that's putting alot of stress on the (tiny) little flange at the cat connector. It's likely to stress crack/snap off sooner than later. You run a 2.5 or a 4.0? If 2.5, how does that thing sound on it? Jeff

That's what I'm hoping. I guess I won't know until I bolt them in, for sure. If I can get 2.5" or so in the front with them plus a spacer and go 3" in the rear I'll be set. Jeff

They were V8 coils. I didn't check the option package....I just saw the 8 in it and grabbed them. It had ABS and a D35 in the rear, if that matters. I didn't take the isolators, tho. Maybe I'll run back down there and grab them tomorrow. Jeff

stock springs are a piece of cake to pull if you have a small bottle jack....took me about 20 minutes 8) and only cost me $6 ea, that's why I grabbed them. Plus, my springs are the original ones that came with the MJ and they're going on 19 years old. These came off a 98 ZJ....I couldn't just leave them there, now could I????? :D Jeff