mjeff87

I'm working on acquiring a tranny jack, so all we have to do is pull the tranny/TC off as one....I'm NOT screwing around with that shifter bracket any more, or else the sawzall is coming back out :evil: and I have no love for dropping the exhaust again. If noone has one to lend, I'm just gonna buy an adapter jack from Harbor Freight for $35, and we can use it on your floor jack. Hopefully, it'll be that simple. Yeah, right.....sure it will. :D Jeff

If you're doing the work by yourself, rent/buy/beg/borrow/steal a tranny jack so you don't injure yourself :D I'd recommend pulling the TC off first, then the tranny (especially if you aren't using a jack)....it throws the COG off on the whole mess and makes it all want to rotate anti-clockwise when you get it off the back of the engine. Thanks to Chuck :cheers: I learned it's easier to jack the rear of the rig, rather than the front, to get working space underneath (if you want to pull it out from under the rig once you have it down, you'll have to have it high enough to, otherwise you can just move it out of the way and reinstall it). The way I do it is to place a jack under the tranny with a block of wood, drop the driveshafts, then pull the crossmember and lower the whole driveline as far as it will go. Check the fan blades to make sure they don't get into the radiator. Let it all hang there (move the jack under the oilpan area to support), and start unbolting :D Along with the tranny cooler lines and shift cable, you'll have to disco any other electricals to it, pull the bellhousing bolts, and unbolt the torque convertor from the flexplate....then you can slip the tranny off the back of the engine. Safety first...use cribbing or rated jackstands under the axle/framerails while you have it in the air.

I know, I know...but Chuck already had it cut before we started. (Side note...I know the AX15 'wheels are concave, but isn't the AX5 flat to start with?) Anyways, on the disc, I'm almost positive it went in correctly but can't say with 100% certainty because Chuck put it on while I slipped the housing over and lined up the bolt holes. I've never put one on wrong so I don't know what the results would "feel" like :D but it's a possibility :oops: I figured it would chatter and not engage smoothly if reversed, but still engage. As it sits, we're not getting any power into the tranny in any forward gear, but in R it *sounds* like the gears are getting at least a little...you can sort of hear the gears turning inside the case. But it doesn't move an inch..... Jeff

Chuck, Try this when you get a chance to see if it helps any.....open the bleeder on the TOB to take any pressure off (maybe push a little fluid out with the pedal and leave the bleeder open), then put the rig in gear and push it back and forth. See if the clutch tightens up and makes full contact (should try to spin the engine). That would indicate a hanging TOB. Jeff

Pete, feel free to move this to the Pub if you want,since it's not MJ specific tech but rather YJ..... This weekend Chuck (cmcolfax), Jerry (tjbliley), and I did an auto-to-manual swap on Chuck's 95 (I think) YJ ->30RH (or something like that, 3 spd auto) to AX5. Got all the hardware in, Jerry figured out how to jump the NSS :cheers: , and got it fired up. Starter seemed to “knock” a bit when spinning, so we adjusted it (no shims) and that cleared up for the most part. But the big problem is that the clutch is slipping BADLY, like it’s barely contacting the flywheel. No power getting to the gearbox, and at idle in neutral with the clutch out, it will eventually start lightly smoking :eek: . Engine off, tranny in gear, you can even push the rig back and forth "freewheel"....no force back thru the gearbox to the engine. Flywheel, clutch master and line, and tranny all came from the same vehicle, and the clutch assembly (internal throwout) is brand new and the correct part #. TO is bled to spec, and the master is working correctly. Good pedal, and it pushes fluid well. One thing I can immediately think of is that Chuck had the flywheel machined, and maybe the shop took off too much…..but it didn’t look any thinner than my flywheel which was machined also :nuts: . Another possibility is that the TO is hanging up (partially expanded) inside the bell, and is pushing on the fingers in the clutch cover. And lastly, there was a machined spacer on the back of the crank when we pulled the auto off that must have spaced the flexplate/tone ring out fir it all to line up….we didn’t reinstall it, because the donor rig didn’t have one and my MJ didn’t have one….the flywheel bolts directly to the crank-end in both cases. Chuck is gonna throw some pics up of the spacer sometime today, or send them to me and I’ll post them for view. We don’t really think that is the issue, because the problem is excessive clearance in the pressure plate/clutch disc/flywheel area, not flywheel to block. Bottom line is that it all has to come back apart, but we’re trying to figure out what to look at when we do (won’t be for a few more weeks). Anybody have any ideas? By the way, this is the first SWB Jeep I’ve had the (dis-) pleasure of working on :D ….and hopefully the last. Just isn’t any room to work on anything :headpop: ! Jeff

Non-adjustable since the lifters are hydraulic. Just install and torque to spec. Make sure you keep everything in order and proper orientation Jeff edit: by orientation, I mean to say put the pushrods back in the same direction they came out in, and the pivots facing the same direction as they came out as. You can't put the rockers on backwards, but the rods/pivots are symmetrical objects and easily reversed. Each part develops a specific wear pattern, and it's best not to disturb it.

Just found this buried inside a zip file of the 88 FSM. This is what is says regarding the 8th digit on the VIN: 8 - Trim Package 1 * Custom 2 * Pioneer 3 * Chief 4 * Laredo 5 * Base 5 * Wagoneer 6 * Limited K * Cherokee Base (2WD) L * Pioneer (2WD) M * Laredo (2WD)

I can dig it.....thanks! Jeff

What exactly is it, like a queue or something? I've been noticing some PM's I send get "stuck" in there, while others get sent instantly. They eventually get on their way, though. Anyone else notice this? is it a quirk of this type of forum software? Not complaining....just curious is all :D Jeff

RIIIIIICCCCKKKKK!!!!! :cheers: Where ya been, buddy??? Jeff

On the subject of Jeeps and towing, check this little nugget out: Jeep Vs. Sea Ray Death pool http://www.hotboat.com/forums/showthread.php?t=123275 :popcorn: :roll: Jeff

X3 each is a different one :cry: I'm still trying to figure out why they put the 2.5 oil filter DIRECTLY ABOVE the starter/solenoid. There's no way to avoid dumping oil on it every time you do an oil change. :headpop: :headpop: :headpop: Jeff

This works but be careful if you try it.... Break the lugnuts loose but don't back them off (keep them snug), then drive forward/back a couple feet. They'll pop. Alternately, you can take a piece of 4X4 or similar and hit the bead area at the bottom repeatedly while slowly spinning the tire. It will eventually pop. Good luck! Jeff

Heers the link to the post: http://richmondjeepers.com/forums/showt ... 3#post8033 I'm PM-ing you the message JIC you can't get there.

I won't be towing with it.....the mighty 2.5 can't get out of it's own way :D (well, maybe a small utility trailer to haul brush and stuff, but that's it) I'm planning to brew up various receiver-mounted things, such as a removable license plate holder (and get the bootyfab setup I have now gone), a vise holder, and a couple other creations. Jeff

Ben added a "portal" page to the site. I have problems with it, even at work over a T1 line..... try this link to the portal, then click the forums link: http://richmondjeepers.com/modules.php?name=Jig

There's a guy over on Richmond Jeepers parting out an 86 FSJ. Has a 360 in it that he's asking best reasonable offer on...if that interests you (?) Jeff

Not sure about a BA10/5, but on the AX- series trannies, I pop the shifter out of the top housing and dump it in from inside the cab. Just put a drain pan under the fill plug and dump 'till it starts coming out. I don't think the shifter is retained the same way on yours tho....you may have to unbolt it. Either way, it's a whole lot easier than trying to fill it via the fill hole :D Jeff

You could probably use an XJ shackle. Have you welded the perches on yet? Jeff p.s. I'm up the road from you in Chesterfield......holler if you need a hand.

Here's a section of one of the 5 wires inside the conduit. Had to cut the melted wires out with a sawzall :eek: (pencil included as a size reference) Two things I don't mess around with are electricity and married women....scary shiat :roll: Jeff Image Not Found

and just when the grass was starting to grow back on that side of your garage..... :rotf: Looks like a big jigsaw puzzle. Just bolt it all together (instructions are in the glove box). I'm up for giving you a hand, whatever you decide to do. Lemme know if you need stuff out of the junkyard. Jeff

My insurance (State Farm) and I had a big go-round when I converted mine. They go by the VIN, not by what's actually under the rig :nuts: IT's both good and bad, tho......good is that the premium is cheaper, but bad if I ever file a claim to get anything replaced driveline-wise. I doubt they'd honor it, but I had them put a letter I wrote in my file saying the truck is 4WD but they refuse to insure it as such because of the VIN. But, considering it's an almost 20 yr old vehicle, I'll take my chances :D Jeff

Rotors were shot, and the parking brake pads were shot also. I got all the hardware for the e-brake (springs/pins/levers, etc), just gonna get new rotors and pads. They didn't charge me for the brake hoses from the caliper that have the banjo fitting and mounting bracket on the other end :D . I was gonna take the brake cables, 'cause they have the ends that snap into the lever, but didn't. I can pick them up new for a few $$, and it looks like I'll be able to booger them into the factory MJ cable bracket thingy under the bed without too much of a problem. If not, I'll use the MJ cables and adapt them.

I'm guessing the frame-ends are shorter on a LB than a SB (?) Bottom line is it wouldn't fit....couldn't get the bumper back far enough to line the brackets up. Even if I would have outboarded it, the brackets didn't line up, they were about 2" short of the mounting holes. That's why I went inside the rollpan area. 'Sall good, though. :cheers:

yep, late model ZJ D44. Had a funny diff cover, which I may go back and snag......thinking about doubling the stock cover using it and cutting out the fill hole area. Funny thing is it was a C clip axle, so I had to pull them to get the shafts out. I pocketed the center pin, too (hopefully I'll never need it!) Jeff