mjeff87

I've got two compression fittings on my rear brake line....one about midships where I spliced in a new line from the prop valve, and another along the axle tube on the passenger side to the wheel cylinder. Dangerous?? meh.....they've been holding for 2+ years now :D Just tighten the bejesus out of 'em. It's alot easier for me to use a comp fitting than flaring :brows: And they passed VA inspection, too. I think they would have failed me if the law said you couldn't use them for brake lines. Jeff

".....and I shall call her Double D...." toldya ;) Jeff

It's no furthur along than what you see in the pics, sadly :oops: I've got a project list for my MJ as long as my arm, and just can't get around to doing it all..... Jeff

Here's a bunch o' pics of Pat's old rear bumper, plus how I mounted it. I shortened it......a little ;) Jeff

It lives :D Chuck got the correct 21 spline TC in and bolted up. It moves under it's own power (clutch is fine). No rear driveshaft at the moment (getting shortened to fit the SYE), but it works fine in "front wheel drive" :brows: Pay no attention to the missing hood....and seats....and the battery that's hooked up with 2 pairs of vise-grips :dunce: Here's a pic (that's Chuck, not me): Jeff Image Not Found

Just did that on Chuck's YJ yesterday. Minor problem was that the disco motor is in great shape, and it kept pulling the shift fork back juuuust enough to disengage the collar. Pulled it all apart and shimmed it with some washers (like I have mine) and it works like a charm :D Don't forge to refill the CAD housing with gear oil when you put it back together. Jeff

The HB is the big round thing on the end of the crankshaft snout, in front of the timing chain cover. The serpentine belt rides on the outer part of it.

We're having a luau party/luncheon today here at work. Here's my contribution.....40# of riblets :D I'll finish them off on the grill here in about an hour :brows: Wish this wasn't a "work" thing......I'm ready for some beers to wash 'em down with :cheers: Jeff Image Not Found Image Not Found

x2, but some are shallow and some are deep (more like a job-box). I've got a shallow Delta box on mine, and I'm still able to slide things under it, up to about 12" high, the whole way to the front of the bed. That's a plus when hauling lumber or garden-type tools with long handles. The only downside is that it's damn near impossible to get the area in front of the wheelwells cleaned out after hauling a load of soil/gravel/mulch etc... once you empty the load out. That's a 235/75 spare in there under the box (along with a bunch of other crap :D ) It just fits under....I know a 31" isn't gonna fit :cry: Jeff Image Not Found

I suck at electrical stuff, but here's what I do. First, determine which is the "control" side and which is the "supply" side. Terminals 85/86 should be the control voltage, and 87/87a are the switched posts on the supply side (which provide power to the accessory). Terminal 30 is the hot lead from the power source that gets switched to either 87 or 87a when the 85/86 circuit is energized. To test to see if the relay is switching on the control voltage, ground pin 86 and apply 12V to 85....you should hear the relay click. With no power to 85/86 there should be continuity between pin 30 and 87, and with power it should be open and there should be continuity between 30 and 87a. Of course, the relay could be working fine when tested but be weak internally and fail intermittently under load, which is kind of impossible to test for:( I had a weak AC relay in my other car and chased it (even took it to a garage) for a couple weeks until one day the AC cut out when running and I smacked it (hard)...and it worked again for about a minute. I'm sure more electronically-inclined members have better methods and can give more advice than me on relays....like I said, it's not my strongest subject. That and bodywork...... FWIW, the ECU provides a completed ground for the fuel pump relay, so it could be a break in the wiring between the relay and the ECU also. You can bypass the relay to check the fuel pump by jumping two pins on the small diagnostic test port on the passenger fender between the blower motor and the coil. (pins 5 and 6) Jeff

Check the relay first...it may be weak or loosing contact intermittently.

Pop the CAD cover off and slide the coupler over to lock both shafts together, move the shift fork so it sits inside, and reinstall the cover. You can shim the fork over with some washers if you want, but it shouldn't move from where it sits as long as you don't apply any vaccuum to the shift motor. Don't reconnect the vac lines, and plug the fittings. Jeff

What mods? Do you need to replace the bushings? I was thinking about grabbing a set of lowers out of the junkyard.... thx! Jeff

Hey, we're not alone.......unfortunately :mad: http://old.zone-h.org/en/search/what=croconile/ Jeff

I think it's Rick's fault...... he finally gets over here, and look what happens (:rotfl2: :razz: :D :yes: :P ) Jeff

I sent Pete a PM from NAXJA a couple hours ago. Looks like it happened sometime this morning, between 7:45 and 8:30. He doesn't exist on here any longer :eek: :nuts: Jeff

Not sure I'm following you. You mean you want to remove the part that the bumpstop screws into? It's not bolted, it's a stamped piece that's welded in....removable, but you'll need to break out the sawzall :evil: Whatcha planning under there? Jeff

That PO sounds like the type of person who puts $1.07 worth of gas in at a time (or whatever change he has in his pocket at the time :roll: ) just to keep it running. Try not to run with less than 1/4 tank at any time. The fuel pump is cooled by the fuel in the tank, and if you constantly run it at/near empty you'll burn it up (plus keep sucking crud into it from scavenging the bottom of the tank). Jeff

On mine, the stock bumpstops have a small lip around the bottom of the metal edge, that's larger than the top of the spring. I have to thread a pipewrench thru the coils and unscrew the stops and take them out before the spring comes out. FWIW, later model (XJ) bumpstops are pressed in, not screwed. Jeff

Had a lightning strike in my backyard about 20 ft off my deck last spring....had to change my shorts when it happened. It sounded like someone let off with a 30-06 in my kitchen. LUCKILY, the house has GFCI outlets that caught the surge. They burned up but the house didn't :D We lost a microwave, TV, and a VCR (plus 3 of 4 outlets), and fried the underground cable from the box in the yard to the house. The cable co had to come out and run all new line. Seems the lightning hit a tree, traveled down into the ground right where the service line cuts across the backyard into the meter. If you don't have ground fault receptacles, get some. I'm convinced they ended up saving almost everything we own... Jeff

ask mjeff87 for a list of parts if not. he told me the list back when i was asking about doing that. he has a really good pic of all the parts you need spread out also. Alex Find a ZJ in the junkyard, and get all this :D The rotors and parking brake pads were trashed, so I'm installing new ones. Jeff Image Not Found

That depends on what your definition of hard is :D but you can save alot of cash if you do the work yourself. In a nutshell, you have to pull the tranny off the back of the engine to replace the TO. While you're in there, you might as well replace the clutch assembly and pilot bearing too, since 90% of the work to get to it has already been done. Probably the hardest part of the job is accessing and removing the two top bellhousing bolts. They are also a special type of bolt head, an external torx, and you'll need a special socket (E12) to remove them. I'd suggest you replace those bolts with regular hex head bolts when you reassemble it. Basically, the job goes like this: -jack up and block the rig as high as safely possible -remove shift lever from top of trans -remove driveshaft (plug end of tranny housing to prevent gear oil loss) -disconnect speedometer cable, CPS, and the backup light switch harness -disconnect the clutch hydraulic line at fitting outside of bellhousing -remove starter (on 4.0L only) -jack under the tranny and remove crossmember bolts, remove Xmember -lower tranny/engine carefully and remove jack (check engine fan to radiator clearance -unbolt the bellhousing bolts -carefully pull tranny off of engine with a helper or tranny jack and set aside -replace TO with new unit, plus new hard lines (replace clutch assembly and pilot bearing) Put it all back together in reverse order, bleed the clutch system and road test HTH, Jeff

Did that valve just snap off the stem like that :eek: ?? I thought the damage on my other car's head was bad when the valve seat dropped.....but that there's just plain ugly! Jeff

If'n ya wanna see some blingin' warning indicators, there were some oddly optioned XJ's that had a "command center" console on the other side of the gauge pod (most have either a blank plate or a blank with a LED clock) above the cig lighter. THAT pod thingy has some way wacky things in it. I've only ever seen 2 of 'em in person (both in the junkyard). Jeff

Welcome back Woody....and sorry for your loss. Beer's on me (and Pat :D ) if you want to meet up sometime :cheers: Jeff p.s. LOVE the gatling-gun smiley there ^^