mjeff87

Mostly bondo, duct tape, and rust here :D I vote either Tellico or Paragon (either of which I have a realistic chance of actually getting to....) Jeff

I'm in I'll be up early Sat. morning. Sunday I have to pull out and run up to Johnstown and pick up a D30 I have stored up there. I can come back down for some festivities, but I have to bug out mid-afternoon back to VA :cry: Jeff

I gots class.....mine are stored in the crawl space under my house, not in the backyard (which is full of lawnmowers, axles, and other crap :D ) I'm not on a distributor level like you guys, but I do have a full set of 235's mounted for the MJ (selling them off this weekend, tho), a full set of 175/65's mounted for the Escort, 3 old mounted 175's I took off the Escort (using the fourth one as a full size spare instead of the stupid donut that came stock), the stupid donut spare, and one old truck tire on a rusted out steel wheel that came with the house when we moved in :nuts: Jeff teaser pic: Image Not Found

There's really only a couple sensors on them that feed input to the ECU: TPS (if bad, will run like poo) CPS (if bad, won't run at all...carry a spare in your toolbox ;) ) O2 (can cause erratic, random poor running, hesitation) MAP (same as TPS) MAT (meh....)

By the way... why wouldn't you want to resurface the fly wheel? AX15's in particular have a specially shaped 'wheel...it's concave rather than flat. Machining it will remove the concavity (is that even a word? :D ). Also, internal slave/throwouts are very sensitive to changes in clearance between the clutch disc and flywheel....if you do machine it, you should shim out the throwout the same amount as what was machined off the 'wheel. All that being said....I machined my flywheel on my AX5 and didn't have any problems. Cmcolfax machined his and we tried installing an AX5 in place of a dead auto in his YJ and we're having problems with it. Basically, it don't work :headpop: Best bet, if the flywheel is bad enough that it needs to be machined, and you can spare the cabbage, you're better off replacing it. Jeff

I have a new clutch, but it's for my old BA10... Do you know if the clutch and pressure plate are the same? If not, what clutch would I need to get? Would I need one from a newer XJ that the NV3550 came from? Thanks. Clarke I don't know for sure. Physically they're likely to be the same size (9.75" or so), but the input spline count may be different between the cases. Try calling the dealership, or check an auto parts store to see if the part #'s are the same.

Yeah, it's a one piece deal. Think I got mine at Advance or Napa. The Haynes said specifically to not lube it before install, but that went against everything I know about seals....so I smeared some all purpose grease around the inside it first. It ain't blown up yet, and it ain't leaking :D Jeff

got new clutch stuff? You'd be foolish to not replace it if it needs it. DON'T have the flywheel resurfaced. Replace all the UJ's in both driveshafts (not essential, but again it's a perfect time). They don't like changes in operating angles. Jeff

Yay! another 2.5-er on the board! :cheers: Welcome. X2 on the RMS. There's also a freeze plug back there above it you might want to inspect and replace if necessary. You may or may not need an inverted torx socket (E12)for the top two bellhousing bolts. 4.0L's have them, but 2.5's seem to use regular hex head bolts. But, it's the same size you'll need for the starter bolts if they're original. If you come across any in either spot, go ahead and replace them with regular head bolts (or studs even). Also, pay attention to the combination of bellhousing bolts/nuts as you take them out.....they are different lengths. Don't just toss them all in a box and trust that you'll remember where they're supposed to go back ;) Jeff

You won't be able to run the bolt from the inside out, if that's what you're planning :cry: It will contact the sway bar. Jeff

Duct tape works in a pinch, too.... (except for a forehead injury, you'd have to wrap your whole head mummy style :roll: Might sting a little when you take it off) Jeff

FWIW, those dinky little mirrors are break-away types....so if you hit something with them (say like, a ZJ on the interstate going about 60 mph :oops: ) they snap off instead of ripping half the door away with them :D oh, and they just pop back on, too..... Jeff

On the passenger side, watch the length if yours is a 4.0L. It pokes thru the framerail right about where the alternator is :cry: I've pulled several sets off XJ's in the 'yard, and it looks like the older models (pre-92ish) use a regular nut on the end of the bolt, and it just clearances. Later models have the hole in the framerail enlarged, and the nut is sleeved (it fits inside the hole and the end is flanged), so it sits flush with the framerail and doesn't contact the alt. The above does not apply if you run a 2.5....plenty of room there, and the alt is on top :cheers: You can't flip it around, either, because the bolt will hit the swaybar (if you have one :D ) Jeff

and/or a cutoff wheel :evil:

It couldn't hurt to use a dab. I use blue loctite on most everything :D Funny story, two days after I first got my MJ, I drove it from Pittsburgh to Norfolk and back. It had been sitting dormant in a garage lot for 6+ months, but it fired up and ran like a champ. The next morning, I started it up and is was only running on 3 of the 4 cylinders. Turns out the rocker bridge on #3 loosened up and the intake rocker tip slid off the end of the valve (oops). I guess the 16 hour roadtrip at interstate speeds vibrated the bolt loose..... Jeff

$23 for all of it ;) but the whole swap is gonna cost about $100. I need to pick up new rotors, pads, parking brake pads, new spring/anchor kits, and e-brake cables if I can't get the MJ ones to work (I shoulda grabbed the cables off the ZJ for $5/ea but I didn't.....). Might also have to replace the mounting studs in the axle flange if they aren't long enough, too.

Alex, I'm talking about just swapping the brake assemblies from a ZJ D35 to your axle, not swapping in the whole thing (unless the 'yards up there won't part axles out). ZJ D35 discs (which come stock on some models) should be a direct bolt-on to your D35. You might have to get a bit creative with the parking brake cables. I'm swapping ZJ D44 discs onto my MJ D44. I was going to use Crown Vic discs, or ZJ D35 discs (both with some modification required) because ZJ D44 discs are a pretty rare bird, but one just happened to show up a couple weeks ago in the 'yard. Here's the parts I grabbed (and the ones you will need). The rotors/pads/parking brake pads were shot so I didn't take them...I'll just get new ones. Jeff Image Not Found

Hey Andy...welcome aboard :cheers: Jeff (aka "Jeff in VA" over on NAXJA) p.s You can do a 4WD conversion pretty quickly :brows: , if ya have all the stuff...just unbolt the 2WD junk and swap in the new stuff..no modding necessary unless you reuse your 2WD rear DS (have to cut it down a bit)

Jerry hooked me up with a spare receiver plate holder he had, so it's a little less bootyfab now :D I just have to unsplice the light wires and add a connector. Then it'll be a quick disco rear plate..... Jeff Image Not Found

http://www.comancheclub.com/forums/view ... prop+valve http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.p ... +rear+prop Enjoy the read. Jeff

ZJ D35 rear disc assemblies, for plug-and-play :D

I'm working on acquiring a tranny jack, so all we have to do is pull the tranny/TC off as one....I'm NOT screwing around with that shifter bracket any more, or else the sawzall is coming back out :evil: and I have no love for dropping the exhaust again. If noone has one to lend, I'm just gonna buy an adapter jack from Harbor Freight for $35, and we can use it on your floor jack. Hopefully, it'll be that simple. Yeah, right.....sure it will. :D Jeff

If you're doing the work by yourself, rent/buy/beg/borrow/steal a tranny jack so you don't injure yourself :D I'd recommend pulling the TC off first, then the tranny (especially if you aren't using a jack)....it throws the COG off on the whole mess and makes it all want to rotate anti-clockwise when you get it off the back of the engine. Thanks to Chuck :cheers: I learned it's easier to jack the rear of the rig, rather than the front, to get working space underneath (if you want to pull it out from under the rig once you have it down, you'll have to have it high enough to, otherwise you can just move it out of the way and reinstall it). The way I do it is to place a jack under the tranny with a block of wood, drop the driveshafts, then pull the crossmember and lower the whole driveline as far as it will go. Check the fan blades to make sure they don't get into the radiator. Let it all hang there (move the jack under the oilpan area to support), and start unbolting :D Along with the tranny cooler lines and shift cable, you'll have to disco any other electricals to it, pull the bellhousing bolts, and unbolt the torque convertor from the flexplate....then you can slip the tranny off the back of the engine. Safety first...use cribbing or rated jackstands under the axle/framerails while you have it in the air.

I know, I know...but Chuck already had it cut before we started. (Side note...I know the AX15 'wheels are concave, but isn't the AX5 flat to start with?) Anyways, on the disc, I'm almost positive it went in correctly but can't say with 100% certainty because Chuck put it on while I slipped the housing over and lined up the bolt holes. I've never put one on wrong so I don't know what the results would "feel" like :D but it's a possibility :oops: I figured it would chatter and not engage smoothly if reversed, but still engage. As it sits, we're not getting any power into the tranny in any forward gear, but in R it *sounds* like the gears are getting at least a little...you can sort of hear the gears turning inside the case. But it doesn't move an inch..... Jeff

Chuck, Try this when you get a chance to see if it helps any.....open the bleeder on the TOB to take any pressure off (maybe push a little fluid out with the pedal and leave the bleeder open), then put the rig in gear and push it back and forth. See if the clutch tightens up and makes full contact (should try to spin the engine). That would indicate a hanging TOB. Jeff