HOrnbrod

Mmmm, chrome everywhere including the Marchals. Need to junk those black wheels though.

The only place I use poly bushings on anything is on the sway bars, both front and rear. I use them both for the bar bushings and the end link bushings. They make a very noticeable difference in the rigidity of the bar over the stock rubber bushings and work better for me.

OP, add a signature to your profile so we know what you are driving. https://comancheclub.com/forums/topic/51707-cc-members-create-a-signature-to-describe-your-mj/ The 16 gal tank was the standard in the LWB; the 23.5 tank was optional.

http://veloce.se/a6a5ab1f-f7bc-4a95-a246-bbcb4649f616-29.html

Ya, I know it sounds like mumbo-jumbo, but it's the only way I've found to completely clear the memory and reload the factory OBD1memory tables.

Ya, I know the truth hurts Gog.

It sounds like this stuttering occurs when the system goes into closed loop and the ECU, MAP, IAT, etc. take over. Just for grins try the below procedure to erase all the ECU memory and start with the original factory settings. Also clean up the 60-pin ECU connector first. Disconnect the POSITIVE battery Terminal and touch it to ground for 30 seconds. (This is to discharge the PCM capacitors, which maintain the Adaptive Memory). Reconnect the Battery Cable Turn Ignition Switch to the “On” position but DO NOT start the engine Turn Headlight “On” Turn Headlights “Off” Turn Ignition Key “Off” Adaptive memory has nor been flashed, or erased from the PCM. When you restart the engine it will be running off a set of pre-programmed tables that come with the PCM from the factory. When you get the engine up to operating temperature the PCM will start to collect data for the “Adaptive Memory”. The PCM will collect data for Adaptive Memory for the first 50 Warm-up Cycles.

What will cause an even more massive rift is if a Canadian based hockey team ever wins the cup again.

I stand corrected - thanks Adam.

They reused my original gasket as I recall. It was a loooong time ago.

Jim, are you still in the AF and at Elgin now? If so, bet it beats the crap out of Yokota.

That CRL 4-pane is the only aftermarket slider you can get now for the MJ. I had one of them installed years ago in mine and it has given me no problems at all. You can't order directly from CRL unless you have a business account with them, so I had my local glass company order it since they were going to install it anyhow. Saved a few bucks by eliminating the middle man, CARiD in your case. http://www.crlaurence.com/crlapps/showline/offerpage.aspx?ProductID=87862&GroupID=1653&History=30587:21770:1336:21770:1351:1389&ModelID=1653&pom=0

^^ That's a good tactic and it's free. Along with that, pull the 60-pin ECU connector and check for any bent / recessed pins, then spray and clean both the male and female connectors with the same contact cleaner.

Those are normal if you don't have the factory aux fan installed.

Been flushing my system out at least bi-annually for many years now. It has the original heater core and always has good heat. It may be too late, but I think you should definitely try a flush before digging into replacing the core. I always use Prestone products with only distilled water, but they are all probably good.

Had to look it up - 66/67 season was their last cup win. Damn, that has been awhile.

Bummer on the coolant / oil issue. Are you going to do cylinder pressure and leakdown tests to try and isolate what's happening with the head?

Haven't read through it all, but have you flushed out the system including the heater core with a good radiator flush product?

Easy win - bring on the GA Dawgs. Bama and the SEC rule.

^^ That's good. Especially the Leafs winning the cup when hell freezes over entry.

Me too. Maybe because of the new year date change? Seems fine now.

Back at ya.

Gel filled........

Like Logano? He is a Yahoo. Would not surprise me at all to Tony in more NASCAR events. I certainly hope so.