HOrnbrod

Not meaningless in Hudy's case, assuming he changed the springs only and left everything else (tires, tire pressure, shackles, etc.) alone. He gained a 2" lift from swapping in the MT springs and doing nothing else. That's exactly the same lift I got with the same springs and measuring the same way.

Damn shame Chrysler's suppliers in the States couldn't built a cylinder head back in 00 w/o it cracking and TUPY in Brazil had to bail them out. If my head ever cracks I'd be going with an aluminum head from Hesco if I can find one, or the Edelbrock version.

You are correct - good eye. But I do like the all-caps COMANCHE emblem better.

I always call the store no matter what the website says and ask for the part using it's catalog number before I go. All the counter drones know how to do is look up something by it's part number.

Had a subtle modification made to the headrests to center the logo better. It also makes sure that my MJ will never be mistaken for a Renix model.

I think you done good. For my stroker I used a 0630 (96-98) head. It supposedly flows a little better - IDK..... https://www.jeepstrokers.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=34&t=241

Here's one with measurements - yours should be close to this..

They look okay, but the turbine (10-spoke) wheels (upper one) are 15"x7" with a 5x4.5" bolt pattern and look much better on an MJ. Period correct!

You will be a double dipper pretty soon then. Good way to go.

It's nice to be retired and have all that free time.

Back when I had the D35 I tore the plug up a bit when removing. The hole was not threaded. I refilled it and reused the rubber plug, and it luckily didn't leak. But I did order a new cover with a real threaded bung and replaced the crappy original.

Agree, this is just good common sense. The balancer is a consumable part (rubber). If you don't know it's history, replace it if it was pulled to complete another job. Same thing with the water pump.

Yes, but the fuel gauge will read backwards because of the opposite polarity and not accurately since the sender potentiometers are of different ohm values. I haven't done it personally, but others on the forum have and live with the wonky gauge.

That article is full of crap. The ohm range of the potentiometer sender has nothing to do with the output fuel pressure. The pot's only function is to feed a variable voltage to the fuel gauge. The HO's and Renix use the same fuel pump; the output pressure is the same for both. The operational pressure the injectors see is determined by the fuel rail pressure regulator. The HO FPR will be higher. The Renix and HO fuel gauges will both indicate with either sender too, but will indicate 180* out because the output DC voltages are opposite polarities for the Renix and HO gauges.

Chrome pedals would be over the top, buy only slightly. Amazon, Ebay, etc. It's a fairly new product. https://www.amazon.com/Molotow-Liquid-Chrome-Marker-4Mm/dp/B01E7EGARQ

Nor have I.

This is Darryl and Darryl's outhouse website.

Nobody has answered your question Adam. The above looks like an XJ sender to me. Here's a pic of an HO 23-gal sender:

That's mostly sunshine Gog.

More bling! Finally found a new-to-me black with chrome trim dash bezel from Strokermjcomanche - thanks Adam. Cleaned it up and redid the chrome trim with a Molotow liquid chrome marker. These markers are really cool and I can see a lot of ways to use them in the future.

Si.

You can always replace the A/C clutch bearing. https://www.autozone.com/cooling-heating-and-climate-control/a-c-clutch-bearing/santech-a-c-clutch-bearing/946337_327211_0 Is this your current belt routing?

The tracks aren't homemade. Same tracks are on this XJ..... https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f59/cherokee-snow-tracks-45171/

If you don't care for A/C, pull it all off and install a delete pulley. You don't have a signature stating what MJ you are driving, so here's one that may or may not fit. https://www.autozone.com/cooling-heating-and-climate-control/a-c-compressor-bypass-pulley/jeep/cherokee and elsewhere.........