HOrnbrod

You can't use a glass pack as the primary muffler, it will sound like crap on all inline engines. I installed the glass pack in front of my main dual outlet muffler and it eliminated all droning at all RPMs. Where it's placed depends on the headers used, exhaust pipe size, and to a lesser extent engine size.

Right you are Sam. HOWEVER, I do have a possible solution: a third brake light logic module. I used one years ago when I installed a third brake light on my bed cap. It's used with combined turn signal / brake light bulbs (dual filament bulbs) to filter out the unwanted turn signal and only pass the brake light signal. It can also be used to filter out the brake light signal and pass only the turn signal. For this you would need two logic modules, one for the left side and one for the right side turn signals. They are very small and could wired in and installed behind the left and right tail lamps on the inputs to the L & R backup lamps. With these wired in the left turn signal would flash both the left red turn signal bulb and left backup light bulb on the left side, and vice-versa. http://www.centurydistributing.com/electricallogicboxes.html

There's a fuel filter on the end of the suction line inside the gas tank. It's probably never been cleaned and/or changed and clogged shut.

A glass pack for a six cylinder is only good for toning down droning. When I put on my split 2.5" dual exhaust system, and the ~2100RPM droning would rattle your teeth. Stuck on a glass pack in place of the original catalytic converter - droning gone.

^^ This would work just fine using amber LEDs in the backup light sockets wired in parallel with the turn signals. Then add an external backup light(s) under/in the rear bumper and extend the existing backup light wiring to them. Example:

Year............Casting No 1987-90......2686 1991-95......7120 1996-98......0630 1999-06......0331 Basic cylinder head facts from the Strokers forum: Renix heads (can't remember casting number) have the lower ports and presumably less flow (don't recall actual flow numbers though) 7120 (91 to 95 I believe) this head somehow got the reputation as the "best" head... I can only guess because it's popular for the 4.2 head swap because some misinformed early swappers claimed the later 0630 head didn't have a water temp sender boss (sometimes is does sometimes is doesn't). 0630, 96-99 (98 on a ZJ I believe) this head is supposed to be identical to the 7120, I haven't flowed my 7120 yet but I believe it will flow the same. This head supposedly doesn't have a water temp sender location, but it does on 4 out of the 5 that I've seen... there's a small bolt in it depending on what model Jeep its in. 0331 2000+ (99+ on Grand Cherokees) this head is prone to cracking in its first few years of casting. It has Ports that are higher on the head and the intakes flow better than the intakes of a 0630 (and I suspect the 7120 as well but I will confirm that at some point). The exhausts on the 0331 should be better for torque (perhaps worse for high RPM horse power, perhaps no difference), they are smaller, shapped much better, and the floor has been raised a lot while the "roof" was raised slightly making for a higher velocity port, more exhaust "scavenging" and thus better low end torque. How much is anyones guess as no ones done a dyno shootout of Jeep heads (unless HESCO has but they would never make the sheets public).

Another interpretation.

Use tiewraps or a piece of wire to hold the LSV arm in a horizontal position slightly above parallel with the axle. Then go test your brakes and see if there is any difference.

I love boxing, and Australia has never really been known for producing great fighters. But maybe this guy should give it a go, eh mate?

For those who use Yahoo email, are you having problems? My email has been up and down for over a week now.......... Grrrrrrrrrrrr

The right part the for gauge temp sender (not switch) is p/n 53005309. Tons of them on Ebay, or cross this p/n at Rockauto, or whomever else you want. If you order parts using the factory p/n there's much less chance of a screw-up.

For your 92MJ, the 95/96 booster master is pure bolt-in. The only fab you have to do are the two brake lines from your existing distribution block to the new master cylinder. Buy a 2' length for pre-flared 3/16" brake line from AZ or similar, use the two existing flares on the distribution block, bend and flare the other ends for the master, and bolt it in. Easy-peasy and an excellent brake upgrade.

I do have the 95 XJ master/booster and Ford Explorer rear disk brakes. With the LSV. Why do you need a writeup??

The correct fuel pump for the 86 MJ w. the craptacular GM 2.8 V6 is part number 83502715 and is a mechanical pump mounted on the engine. What you must have is an aftermarket external electric pump installed by some previous owner. W/o seeing it who knows? Post some pics up. Do you still have the original electric pump that went bad? Was this thing running when you got it? Also, if your external pump isn't pulling fuel the fuel tank vents on top of the tank could be clogged shut cutting off pump's suction..

A third brake light helps........

Sonny is one of my favorite QB's ever. Probably the best pure passer in the NFL. That big ole beer gut never bothered him at all. Kilmer's passes sometimes went end-over-end, but he usually got the job done. And he could/would run through a brick wall. Was a great team with George at the helm. Theismann was good too but a bit of a whiner. I was a Giants fan back then and loved Tarkenton. Their epic battles with the Skins were legend.

That's usually a good problem for a team to have. It's up to the coaching staff to keep both guys happy. I remember back in the day when your Skins had Jurgensen, Kilmer, and later Theismann all fighting to be the starter.

I don't think there's a better mount than the original rubber Mopars for a mostly street truck.

P/n 52002334. for auto or manual. Plenty on Ebay....

Congrats to all you Eagles fans. MVP backup QB Nick Foles did it again. As he did all through the playoffs. I'm not happy that the Pats lost, but am happy for Foles. He's a class act as is the whole Philly Eagle organization.

Maybe, maybe not. I'd still rather have the driveshaft and rear axle perpendicular like with a D44.

7* is the factory spec, but with a that lift you'll back off some to prevent excess pinion angle. I'd shoot for ~3* - 5* as a compromise.

Damn, those shims are ridiculous. You need to measure the actual caster angle on both sides with an angle finder. That affects the pinion angle of course too. W/o measurements it's guessing......

Probably because your axle isn't centered. Wheels straight and level ground, measure from the frame rail to a point on the inside wheel, same points on both sides. This will roughly tell you how bad the axle centering is.