HOrnbrod

Nothing wrong with that if it works. Mine leaked in the same area when I first got it - the original was just flattened. I replaced the door seal with a NOS thicker style and no more leaks, although the door was hard to close for the first year or so.....

PM me a pic if possible........

After reading / re-reading this thread and others ad nauseaum, I'm going to eliminate the transmission radiator cooler and use the existing little Mopar factory cooler (shown below) that I added years ago as the only tranny cooler for my AW4. Since I don't tow anymore (I use the JK if I have to), and have that big 3-core aluminum radiator from FFD, I'm thinking I'll be just fine. Plus I plan to use the PML tranny pan later if and when it becomes available. It doesn't get real cold here either, so I see no need for "pre-heating" the tranny fluid. I think it may help to lower both tranny and engine temps. Has anyone gone this way in this configuration? Everyone I've seen who has eliminated the radiator cooler is using a larger aux cooler than my factory unit. Thoughts?

Even 1/2 that amount is on the high side at the yard.....

Didn't know you were doing the 2500 exterior - must have missed that. All parts in hand?

^^^ Good advice.

Yes. It'll clean it up and get all the hoses and fittings out of the engine bay.

Yes, it's plumbed in series with the radiator cooler. using the return line.

Yes, the optional cooler. Figured it would be better than the nothing I had before.

I run about 170-200 (~180 average) degree tranny temps now, and I'm expecting the alloy pan will drop these temps down 10-15 degrees minimum. It should with the increased fluid capacity and better airflow because there's more pan surface (1-1/4") in the airstream underneath. If that happens, I'm going to temporarily disconnect the wonky radiator "cooler" and it's leak-prone lines and see if the pan itself will be enough to keep the temps cool. I think it will. The goal is to eventually junk the tranny radiator cooler. This is still "several months out" according to PML, so we'll see what happens if/when it happens.

You most likely will damage the push nut when removing it. They are not supposed to be reused, especially for an application like this one. Did you read the sender rebuild thread? You will need a new o-ring and push nut to repair it.

Si, you assumed right. If this works out, I'll be drilling/tapping in a 1/8" NPT hole for the temp gauge sender on one of the pan bosses.

Off-road Penny-farthing rear wheel.

Easy. Just have to find the parts from a junker and swap them in.

Yes. The 2-spoke and 3-spoke have different horn mechanisms.

I hear ya. I can never get an accurate reading with the tranny dip stick cold or hot. It's never clean-cut, always smears differently on both sides. Never could with any of the MJs and XJs I've had. At least with the level hole you can get it spot-on, even though it's kind of a PITA.

Most of those questions will be answered after you read their web page: https://www.yourcovers.com/transpan_11076.php

I've been corresponding for about a year now with PML (yourcovers.com) regarding a new deep pan they are coming out with for the AW4 / A340 auto transmissions, pictured below. Looks like I'll be one of the evaluation test pigs. Looking forward to it...

https://comancheclub.com/forums/topic/40798-horn-button-missing-bits-and-pieces-i-think/?hl=horn

Shoot him a PM. Looks to me like you'll have to pry the push nut off to get to get at the o-ring underneath.

Getting back to the OP's original post: Some good advice above but possibly irrelevant in parts until we know what you have and what your plans are. The following info needs to be provided: What tire size do you plan on running? Is this going to be a street vehicle primarily, or off-road, or both? Are you 2WD or 4WD now, and what is your current gear ratio? Transmission? Etc. etc. ...... Can't help effectively until we know at least this basic information. And it would be good if you created a signature so we know what you are driving. Here's how to do it: https://comancheclub.com/forums/topic/51707-cc-members-create-a-signature-to-describe-your-mj/

It's been working well for the last couple of days....

You probably just need to replace the o-ring and push nut that holds the harness wire grommet to the plate. Read all about it HERE.

Don't you have a Filipina wife? If you're trying to get her to understand why you like restoring old vehicles and maintaining them, forget it. Ain't going to happen. Most women in the Philippines never learn to drive, and if they do, a vehicle is only to get from point A to point B, and they should never break. And they can't understand why you're out there in the garage working on your truck for hours, even though there's nothing wrong with it. A vehicle to them is like a carabao (Philippine domestic water buffalo); something to get you around and/or plow the rice paddy that you shouldn't have any feelings for. My wife like John's wife above gets her new JK every three years and she's happy. Although she does keep it spotless, I give her kudos for that.