HOrnbrod

Holy crap - if you're not watching this game you are missing a classic.

Don't use Seafoam when you're away from home. If you must use it, do it in your driveway.

Hey Dirty, maybe it's a switch to ground.

Taking bets from all you Bama haters. Be easy on yourself...

Thanks - I'll give him a shout.

The 94 AW4 uses TCU p/n 56026769. This TCU can be found in 92-96 XJ/MJ models with the AW4.

I wouldn't use it. It looks like a weeper and has a diaphragm on the way out. The 95-96 XJ master/booster is pure bolt in, and the pedal rod needs no mods for your 91. Much better way to go for the 91-92 MJs.

The water control valve was present on XJs and MJs through 1996. The 1997 models were the first junk the valve and use straight hoses to the heater core.

Looks a bit toasty. Is that a black interior Adam?

Backup transportation?

I used ~3/8" longer studs to make up for the rotor thickness. Dorman #610-449 will work.

Looks like one program will fly the Nam vets from Baltimore to DC only. That's about an hour's drive. Woopee! Honor Flight Solo Program Program Benefits Ideally designed for WWII, Korean War or Vietnam veterans and accompanying family or friends (“guardians”) willing to fund and secure their OWN transportation to the Baltimore Washington International (BWI) Airport or the BWI Hilton.

It's amazing the Honor Flight program will do the same for Vietnam vets also. That doesn't usually happen...

That's great to hear about your Dad and his girlfriend.

Shrink your picture to 195K or less.........

I've had both the crank position sensor (twice) and the distributor cam sync sensor go bad but the symptoms for both were random engine shutdowns, not the ticking issue you are experiencing after your engine goes into closed loop. Both issues threw trouble codes also. I'm not saying these issues couldn't cause your ticking issue; they just did not for me. It was either it ran, or didn't. The 91-92 MJ distributor cam sync sensor requires complete disassembly to change. You have to remove the distributor and pull off the drive gear and shift to change it - PITA. A great upgrade is to junk this distributor and replace it with one from a 1994 model and up. The sensor is right on top under the cap so there's no disassembly of the dizzy required to change it. 94 and up Jeep 4.0 distributor 91-92 Jeep 4.0 distributor

I read that and thought the same thing. I wasn't going to comment on that since the rest of the build was so stellar, but I agree, that's a pretty lame driveline.

I wouldn't use air pressure except as a last resort. Your cooling system has probably never been properly flushed since new. The first thing to clog up is usually the heater core, because it gets no flow unless the heater valve is open and sits idle at least 1/2 the year corroding up. Do a chemical flush via the directions through the whole system first, see what happens, then do your specific heater core stuff if needed. Just my recommendation.....

Nope, no chrome on a rig like that, much as I hate to say it. Would definitely be out of place. A color change would put that truck over the top. This pic makes it look better though with a bit of shine in the paint.

Excellent, but why that tan color? It's boring. It would look so much better in Colorado Red, dark silver, black, etc.

I may have a different interface since I'm a mod. Try the procedure Skorpyo wrote up and see if that works: In upper RH click on down arrow next to username Select Account Settings On left side of screen select "Signature" Edit and Update

You can fix most anything with a rubber band, including your own broken wire....

Good idea - thanks and done.

Me either. And when someone figures out what a break tab is, make sure you text the OP too.

Excellent. Yes, those BFG's on 17" wheels are ~32" tall, definitely need a lift.