HOrnbrod

On my 91 the wire going back to the stop lights is WHT/TAN. The 12V input wire is PINK/BLK. But your model may be different.

It really helps a save wear and tear on your drill bits if you drive the hard steel rivet center pin out with a drift punch before drilling out the rivets. Then replace the rivets when bolting in your new regulator with 1/4x20x1/2" long s/s bolts.

The new (1991+) switch actually has three sets of contacts; NO for the brake lights, NC for the speed control servo (cruise), and another NC to the TCU and ECU (cruise also). Switch pin 5 is the 12V input for the brake lights; switch pin 3 is the 12V out to the brake lights. Pins 3 & 5 are the only normally open contacts on the switch, and are all you'll need to wire in for the brake lights. How do you plan on mounting the new switch on the pedal? The bracket is different.

Coolant will drain out from points higher when you disconnect the heater core hose connection. I do a complete flush once a year, and now is the time, fall season. I don't like using caustic chemical flushes, they are not needed if you flush the cooling system annualy, IMHO. Disco the hoses, and flush front and back, rad, heater core, and engine.

Yeah, UB wired right, but I'd still add another parallel relay to protect the skimpy factory harness and new lights. Relays are cheap insurance........

Here's the old post from way back when how I wired in fog lights in using the factory dash switch. Since my fogs are only 60W, I only used one relay as the factory did. But if you're running 100W fogs or above, I'd parallel another relay and use one for each lamp. "Okay, I've done this using most of my factory wiring on my 1991. The dash fog light switch gets input power on pin B (the VIO/WHT wire on my 91) from the headlamp dimmer switch. This is to prevent the fog lights from coming on when the high beams are on. Cut this wire and splice a fused 12V source which comes on with the ignition. Pin C (the BRN/WHT wire) on the switch is the output which goes to the fog light relay. If you don't have factory fog lights, you won't have a fog light relay. You can pick the BRN/WHT wire up on pin #10 of the 10-pin connector located in the left front of the engine compartment. Use your meter to identify it when your turn your fog light switch ON; you'll have 12V. Run a new wire from pin #10 to the coil side of a new auxillary relay. This will apply 12V to the relay coil to energise the relay. Of course you have to hook up the other pins of the aux relay too, which are normally pinned out like this: Pin 86: 12V from fog light switch to the coil Pin 85: Ground (other side of the coil) Pin 87: 12V relay contact input, NO, (I picked up my 12V on pin 6 of the 10-pin connector above, same way the factory did it) Pin 30: 12V relay contact (NC) output to your lights By using the aux relay you protect your dash fog light switch since all the amp draw from the lights goes through the relay contacts. You can run at least two 100W halogen lights or more, depending on the amperage rating of the aux relay you put in. Make sense?"

Yeah, that looks good. SUA? Looks like, or maybe just angle of the camera?

I think he said he's using wired the cargo lamp switch to trigger the relay coil only, and then used the existing NO relay contacts to power the load. If not, and the load is running thru ANY dash switch, you're right, the switch will fry. I always do a schematic of these things so I'll know how to fix if something fubars.............

If you mean you replaced the factory fogs with your new lights, and are triggering your existing fog light relay w. the cargo lamp switch, you're prolly okay. But the factory fogs were only 55W; you have more than doubled the amps through the relay circuit by using 130W lights. I'd add another relay next to the existing and have one relay for each light. Should be fairly easy w. minimal rewiring.

Yeah, what's the point unless the lowers are rotted to extinction? I'd rather replace the bedsides. Don't they flap around in the breeze or are they anchored somehow?

First thing to do is disconnect the in and out hoses from your heater core at the right firewall, and flush out your core with a garden hose. The crap that comes out will amaze you if it's never been done. Reconnect the hoses and try it. If the heat output is still paltry, it's probably the water control valve. This thing operates on vacuum to open and close using your heater controls. Make sure that it opens fully when you turn the heat on. You can see the lever opening and closing the valve. It could be stuck partially open. If so, get rid of it. In 1997+ XJs Chrysler quit installing the water valves. After going through three of them in two years, I just got rid of it by purchasing new 1997 XJ supply and return heater hoses, and all is well. Oh, and block off the old vacuum line too. This allows water to flow constantly through the heater core keeping it clear, and adds a bit more liquid for overall engine cooling. The heater flapper door stays shut until you activate the heat, and there was no more heat in the cab during the summer as before. Just one less thing to go wrong.............

Yes. that will work too.

Well Eagle, perhaps I can help you for a change. My two girls are now both in college, and I had to go through learning about iPods since EVERYBODY had one, and they ragged me until I gave in. Not an expert, but it's basically a mini hard drive music playing device, that plugs into a USB port on your computer that allows you access it as a storge device, and you can add, delete, listen, and download music via software like Limewire (free) or an Apple provided software program (not free). The basic unit comes with a headset and basic software to get you started. There are other pretenders, but advise you get a genuine Apple product, they do stand behind their product. They come in 2MB - 12MB sizes, just means they can hold more music. The current model that's "HOT" is the Nano, about 4"x2"x1/4" thick. But that may have changed, since new models appear monthly. I have purchased two new on eBay for the girls, and both have been fine w. no problems. But be advised that around Xmas prices usually double, so get one fast. A new Nano basic model in the color of your grand daughter's choice will make her very happy. She most likely knows more about setting them up and downloading the music she wants - they are usually better than us OLDE PHARTES. Hope this helps............

. I'm thinking some one did go this route, but I've never seen any pictures of the set up for a Hand brake. Yeah, Rockauto's even better. Keep forgetting about them :brows:

The 1K will work from RadioCrap, but you will be down in the lower end dirt when adjusting the voltage. But since this is kind of an experiment, get the 1K, wire it in, and set the voltage to 4.5 to start. Monitor your spark plugs frequently to find to optimal setting. When you find the optimal voltage that does make you run leaner (but not too lean), measure the ohms on the pot and get a fixed resistor to finish it off. That's what I'm doing with my MAP adjuster, and it takes some time and driving to get it right.

There's a yard not too far away from you, just across the state line in Brownboro, AL. They specialize in Jeeps, acres and acres of Jeeps. There are at least 100 XJs, 25 MJs, along with 100s of YJs, ZJs, WJs, etc. So next time you have a want list, check it out. http://www.completeautorecyclers.com/

Did you check the prices? Chrysler Parts Direct sells them for $19 (SWB) or $21 (LWB) + shipping. But I don't know about availability.

I was thinking that was what it was for but I've never ran across anything like that before. I would think it would go through the headlight relay,,,,,not have a separate circuit for it... anywho's not a major problem... There is no headlight relay(s) in XJs/MJs as configured from the factory. That's why when you upgrade your headlights to halogen 100w bulbs or so w/o adding relays, your new headlights are not as bright as they should be because of voltage drop, and/or your headlight switch will soon fry because of the added current draw. There is, however, a relay for the factory foglight circuit.

Did a little refiguring: a 0-10 ohm or 0-25 ohm pot would be better assuming 1/2A of current. You could adjust from 1V - 5V.

Not sure on that w/o measuring the amps through the circuit. If you put a 1K ohm potentiometer in series (one leg and the center slider connections) w. the 5V MAP input, you can adjust the voltage in. I'd start with about 4.5V and see if it leans it out. It's lind of like how the ballast resistor works for the fuel pump, a voltage drop, only the ballast resistor is fixed.

I built mine with a voltage regulator chip and the biasing resistor, adj. pot, and a toggle so I could bypass it if it went belly up. It can go from 1.5V to 6.5V, and is similar to the one on GoJeep's site. But since all you need to do is drop the 5V as an experiment, a simple 1K ohm pot in series with your MAP 5V input should work fine.

Could be your wiper arm assembly bushings are shot. I did the below, worked great: http://tinyurl.com/27l93v

Why don't you just build an adjustable voltage module for the MAP sensor 5V input? Easy and cheap to do. My stroker was running rich, getting piss poor mileage, and the plugs were slightly sooty when ever I checked them. I cranked the voltage down to about 4.7V to the MAP, and the plugs are looking good. Another option is to install an adj. fuel pressure regulator, which I am also running at 37PSI vs. the preset 42PSI. My injectors are 24#. But I have an HO; don't know if this will work with the Renix systems.

Sorry, didn't know you had the 4.0L. You need p/n 52002334. According to the parts manual, the AW4 and the BA10 use the same cushion, but the brackets are different.

Alex, this is surprising mate. Yeah, 75-77 Camaros are okay, but I thought you were MJ hard core . But I suppose you have your reasons. But you'll prolly be like Rick in CO, who got rid of his MJ, then bemoaned his loss, and got it back again. BTW, you still there Rick??