HOrnbrod

Yeah, I've read a little about the inertia rings, and it appears they help somewhat with small engines overcoming big tires. But it kind of sounds like polishing a turd, no offense :D . Wish I were still in VA; we could purchase a 1991+ 4WD donor XJ. I could wire up the new 4.0L HO engine in your rig w. the XJ the harness (even add power windows, mirrors too if the donor could supply) in return for help converting my rig to 4WD.

Yeah man, sure does. Looks like your drivetrain, suspension, and steering are 'bout done. When you going to do something with the 4-banger?

Hell Yeah it was :D 8) I wasn't looking good to start the game but boy did they dominate afterwards. They sure did. :D I think the Pack could beat God's team if it was in the snow. Maybe not the Pats though. :cheers:

Good day for Cheeseheads. :cheers:

Instead of extending the drive shaft I went the cheaper route by getting a longer GM slip yoke like Ebay item number 140183983775. Works fine if your u-joint operating angle isn't too severe.

Where's the by-pass Eagle? Somewhere in the filter adapter assembly? I didn't now there was one. :oops: Are you using the large Mobil M1-301 oil filter?

Yep. It's illegal to vent the refridgerant gasses (especially if still R12) to the atmosphere, so a shop has to evac the gas if you want to be legal. Then you can replace/repair the compressor and bring it back for charging. Might be a good idea to switch to R134a at this time. That's what I'll do if my compressor ever breaks since R12 is hard to find now.........

Sounds like the compressor is seized. Needs rebuilding or replacement. Getting one from the yard would be the cheapest way out.

And don't forget to swap out the full console air diffuser front piece in place of what you have now or you'll have a gap, like the pic above.

I know for sure the cable has a rubber tube, as for if it points to the rear or front, I'm not 100%. I was thinking it pointed to the rear...... Correct, they point toward the rear along the bottom of the door. On my power window regulators (the manuals had them too) there is a push-in "Christmas Tree" attached to the tube that plugs into a hole to keep it from sliding around.

Corona! :ack: Rotgut. Kind of "reminds" you of beer. Next time you're south of the border try a Bohemian - good Mex brew.

Yeah, these are great for lifts over 4" as they move the CA down and forward a bit too. This is prolly what chicofuentes0224 has to do too with a 4-1/2" lift.

What is your caster measurement now? The stealer sells 4* shims for the LCAs (or you can make your own) so it's possible to get over 12* more POSITIVE caster by pushing the LCA all the way forward in the slotted frame hole. I tried it, there is that much room. 'Course like Eagle said, that much caster will increase the working angles of the front driveshaft and can cause vibes with a lift like yours.

That a Miller High Life Jeff-man? If so, I admire your brew taste - I'm sucking on one right now. :cheers:

Yeah, I'm not sure if they will be long enough for a 3-1/2" lift either. But they do work well for 3"; no rubbing on the LCAs with 31" tires. I had to use some shims behind them to get my caster back though. Still use the stock upper arms.

Ah, the CHROME. Looks great! Beautiful. :cheers: What's the tire size?

Dayem what crap :nuts:

Aye, opsled too. :nuts: on my part. What led me astray is that most everyone else said that the diff could not cause low speed vibes. Lesson learned, point taken, and this old dog has learned a new trick. :oops: So overall it was a good, although expensive, experience.

The key is also accurate mileage readings, w. the correct speedo gear calibrated to your rig equipment, and verified with GPS or another reliable source (like a local cop car :eek: ). Don't look like gas prices are going down anytime soon, heck they never will, so unless you entertain thoughts of alternative fuel solutions, you gotta make the best of what you got, what you want, and weigh the pros and cons. If you're not concerned with $$, there is no problem. But I think most of us are. If you are concerned about like $1K to get the ideal ratio between performance and economy, I think the $1K will pay for itself in very quickly if gas prices continue as they are.

Bingo! That's exactly what started the wheels turning in my head when I filled up the other day and it was $50. This being my DD, that's a once a week event. The O/D for the 700R4 was .70 but first is 3.06 which will give a nice crawl ratio with the 4:1 tcase and 4.11's. Slap some 35's on it for now and then round up all the parts needed for the 700 swap. You'll need a crank sensor, a longer front driveshaft, a shorter rear shaft(unless you comp cut the fenders and move the axle back) a shifter and a properly beefed 700 trans. Probably a few other things too. Sounds like Tim has a workable solution.

If you're commuting from Chesapeake to Nof*&k, yeah, you need a taller final gear it seems with the gas $$ as it is now. I did it the commute the other way from Yorktown NWS for years while in the AO. 'Course the traffic is a whole lot worse now. Yeah, it's a dilemma, but obtaining the 2400-2600 RPM sweet spot cruise at 65-75 MPH the most effective and economical way is what you have to work out with your tire, diff ratio, and tranny final drive ratio IMHO. Course you already know that. :cheers:

Measure the caster with an angle finder on the upper ball joint face. Should be at least 4* Positive, not negative. I think CW posted up a pic on this previously.........

The mileage "sweet spot" for me is 2400-2600 RPM which equates to 65-75 MPH on my stroker (31" tires, 4.11 gears). Sweet spot highway mileage is about 19-20 MPG; in town running around drops to about 14-15MPG because I have the same problem with the skinny pedal like Pete. :cheers: I did a recent lengthy trip and cruised at 2900-3000 RPM for nearly a tankful, mileage dropped to 17 MPG. The AW4 w. a 75% reduction O/D gear or similar I think is your answer, you need one higher gear for optimum mileage on the highway. You can't just say hit the pedal and enjoy when 93 octane costs in excess of $50 for a fill-up.

Yes, I know that's the first thing you do when troubleshooting; go back to when the problem first started. But I did have these same vibes before the gear install, although very faint. The gear install made the vibes worse, but did not change their freq or the 35-45 MPH range where they showed up. And they are very quiet during accel, coast, and when braking. Course I know that sometimes doesn't mean squat either. :mad: Draggin' this up again to report the vibes are finally GONE!!! In the very first post when I started this thread, I said the vibes started when we regeared, but like a dumbass I had to try EVERYTHING before I went back in the diff like I should have done originally - you were right roger21maynard. Most everyone said the diff couldn't/shouldn't cause low speed driveline vibes like I had, but it dayem sure did. The problem was pinion backlash - there was none. On the original install we could not get the crush sleeve to crush, so we re-used the original and tightened the crap out of the pinion. This week we looked at the pattern, and although there was very little metal in the diff, you could see where the pinion and ring gears had tiny dents in it caused by chattering 'cause it was too close to the ring gear, which caused the vibes. At first I only had vibes under acceleration, then it progressed to deceleration, then to coast during the 35-55 MPH speed range. And the strange thing is that the diff was very quiet during the whole time - made NO noise. This was a strange one and I thought I'd pass it on. Expensive hard-learned lesson :mad: But anyhow, I learned a lot about driveline angles, slip yokes, u-joints, drive shafts, alignment, and DIFFERENTIALS. Everything's right now, and I'm happy. :cheers:

In case you're not fortunate to have access to a BF crimper like CW , Jon Kelly sells high quality heavy ready made cables reasonably priced on his web site: http://www.geocities.com/JeepI6Power/