HOrnbrod

X2. I know you said you have power and ground at the pump, but try bypassing the ballast resistor (inner drivers side fender, engine compartment) by shorting the two wires together and swapping out your fuel pump relay with a known good one next to it. Might save you some $$ and time.

I seem to recall reading somewhere that these were all polished stainless moldings underneath, like my windshield frame. Unfortunately mine are not peeling at all; they are uniformly black. Is this just paint, or some kind of annodized coating? Hmmmm, wonder if a good paint remover would work?

:D I was going to post a similar but you beat me. We call this invaluable tool an Alabama Universal Socket set. 'Course you need the 24" galvanized pipe Power Extension to make the set complete.

88JeepManche, ASSuME-ing your rig is an 88. The door window frames on your rig are chrome. Did it come that way, did you take the black paint off, or has it just worn off with age? I like it :cheers:

The shackles are interchangeable. The XJ shackles are about 1" shorter than MJ shackles, so installing XJ shackles on an MJ will lower it about 1/2", and vice-versa. Bar pin eliminators are used to eliminate the bar pin mounting (duh) for a little better articulation and they add about an inch to the shock length. See here: http://summitoffroad.com/zjbarpin.html

Sure is: http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/strokers/

What he said. Got it - thanks. I'm severely limited to 1991 HOs; I don't have a multi-year fleet like you guys. :cheers:

I think (not positive) the pickup assemblies (electronic or mechanical) are swappable on the housing. In his original pic, the one on the left was electronic. Mine's a 91 w. the electronic speedo and uses the long shaft gear. But Pete's way of just swapping the shafts will work fine. nope. that electronic sender is from a 93 or 94+ t-case it looks like, which are plastic and don't attach to the long shaft one or vice-versa. IF you look closely, you'll see that the long shaft one has the shaft offset. the reason for this is so you can clock it in depending on gear diameter. just turn it to one of the 4 positions, and it will work. again, use the ORIGINAL gear unless you've changed gear size. My 91 must be an oddball between-the-years thing then. My speedo gear uses the long shaft, has the electronic speedo, and the electronic pickup in the picture is identical to mine. And I have the shaft offset groups for the different diameter gears. The housing is the same as the long shaft housing too in the picture, and it looks like the mechanical and electronic pickups will interchange. But maybe only on the 91 model I suspect now.

Glad to help any way I can. This will be a good asset for the stroker guys.

His site makes it hard to find the injector flow rates vs. PSI. Or is it me?? :nuts: Seems to be devoted to replacement injectors for factory engines. Most Jeep stroker guys use 20-24lb. injectors @ 35-60 PSI and regulate them with a chip, adj. MAP, adj. regulator, or a combo of all. If he could put up a separate window in the Jeep section devoted to Jeep Stroker engines, then list the injectors he can supply in this range, he would sell a crapload of them.

Hey man - that's great! Good deal too. I had a 1996 looked exactly like that when I lived on Guam. Send some better pics when you get a chance, and you'll still be very welcome here, even though you be drivin' and XJ mate. :cheers:

I just slotted a couple of OEM Ford clevis brackets and inserted the original ebrake cable. Works great.

To say nothing of the ball joints. Dayem, a CA MJ shouldn't be that rusted, unless you wheel it underwater in the Pacific. Somethin ain't right. :roll:

Tinnerman clips huh? I'm impressed. Never knew the correct name for the little PITAs. I always called them push nuts. :nuts:

I think (not positive) the pickup assemblies (electronic or mechanical) are swappable on the housing. In his original pic, the one on the left was electronic. Mine's a 91 w. the electronic speedo and uses the long shaft gear. But Pete's way of just swapping the shafts will work fine.

:agree: That too. Forgot that one Pete. :D

Got that right.............

The short and long shaft speedo gears are not interchangible. 87-91 used the long shaft, 92+ used the short shaft. It sounds like you swapped in the 92+ tcase on the left. So you will need a 29 tooth short shaft speedo gear IF you did not change tire size and/or regear. See here for the part numbers: http://gojeep.willyshotrod.com/HowtoSpeedoGears.htm

Looks pregnant too...............

X2. Here's how I did mine w. costs. Got the Hella 200mm H4 e-code glass lamp shells from Susquehanna Motor Sports ($34/ea). Then picked up from eBay four IPF 80w/60w H4 bulbs ($10 w. shipping, but you can used any wattage H4 bulb you want) and wired in a universal APC 4-lamp wiring harness w. relays (much cheaper than the 2-lamp, just cut off the extra two H4 sockets, $9 w. shipping) which fit my MJ perfectly. Then put in a separate fuse block mounted near the PDC on the right fender well and fused each headlight w. 20A fuses. Literally a night and day difference, and a highly recommended upgrade.

Good luck Belto - hope you score! :cheers:

Ballast Resistor is only used during startup. Fuel pump itself could be fubar. The ballast resistor is bypassed during startup. After startup the fuel pump relay latches and the resistor is placed in the circuit to lower the operating voltage to the pump. Makes it last longer and run quieter. ;)

Dayem, that's too bad. :cry: Look at the nice chrome trim around the Dak light. 8)

Okay, will do. Nothing yet..........

Makes ya sometimes feel kind of sorry for the poor bastids, don't it? :cheers: