HOrnbrod

Agree. But be sure to post some pics as directed by Wahoo though, after all this thread is for HIM. :cheers:

Super find at that price. Do you know what truck the roll bar was originally designed for? Looks real good in your MJ. :cheers:

Hey Wade; I'm likin' them. Have been hauling 1000 lb. + tile loads the last month or so redoing our house bathrooms and the the spacers really help reduce the body roll w. a full load. I did have some brake squealing shortly after I installed them, but it turned out to be the four year old front disk pads. I replaced them w. non-metallic pads, had the front rotors turned and all is well. Yeah, if you've got frame rubbing now w. 29" tires and your 5.5" BS, 31s will be worse. How wide are your Gambler wheels? You really should have an 8" wide rim w. 31" tires I think. I never had rubbing with my 31s on the 4.5" BS 8" wide Ravine wheels, but the clearance around the rear disk brake caliper was only maybe 1/4"; a bit tight. So the spacers gave me plenty of clearance there, and the tires sit almost square in the flares and the handling is better. Yeah, I'm glad I got them. :cheers:

How's the back holding out? I mean your back. :cheers:

CHROME IT! 8)

I wondered who would catch that. Should have known it would be Eagle. :D Yes, the needle will deflect positive (or negative depending on polarity) with a fresh 9V battery. I've seen some jump up to midscale w. 9V applied before calibrating them. :eek:

Police package XJs started in 1993, so they are all HOs. Here's a few of their features I can recall: Most had the 120 amp alternator Mini console (most) w. column shift Rubber floor mats Some had the HD cooling package (premium rad w. tranny cooler) Unique certified 115MPH speedo cluster Guage cluster has no tach and the big fuel guage Has the voltmeter, oil pressure and coolant temp gauges Most had the 10" rear drums Extended idle switch ECM is unique to police XJ And I've probably missed some other features..........

Probably the easiest way is to remove the gauge from the cluster and apply voltage from a 9V battery across the gauge terminals. Be sure to observe correct polarity, although the 9V battery will not hurt the gauge if reversed. If you get needle deflection the gauge is most likely okay and the problem is an open in the the circuit foil, corrosion on the cluster connector pins, or no input to the cluster. Taz posted an electrical schematic somewhere in the forum. :D I don't have any spare gauges at the moment, but will soon.

ASSume you are trying to install a 1991+ ND alternator into your Renix? If so, you will have to install along with it an external voltage regulator as the ND alts were regulated by the HO ECU. Check on NAXJA; there are some writeups there.

Replaced my broken stuck-up power antenna with a new Crown aftermarket one from Team Cherokee. Bench tested it first, worked fine, got it installed, it hangs up coming up. :fs1: Got it fully extended then massaged it w. 0000 steel wool, seems to work okay up and down now. But for how long?? Should have looked for an OEM used one at the yard........

Great to see more and more HO builds showing up. Looks like you have a very solid platform to build upon. Great work so far, and I'm looking for a D44 too before I snap another axle with the stroker. :D

Lookin' good JB. RH drive, truly going to be one of a kind. Did ya decide to go with the Waggy front end? That would look great on that rig. :D

MJ and XJ rear wheel flares are different and not interchangible. And most importantly, MJs are better! :D

Lol. Jake, that article probably would have sucked me in too if I had not read jeepdoggydog's post first. :D Wish it were true.........

When I put mine on they of course rode a bit stiffer unloaded, but nothing I would call bounding. The shell I always carry I'm sure helped too. :D I had an 01 XJ at the time and it rode stiffer than the MJ.

Fish. :shake:

Or you can install a longer 27 spline GM slip yoke like this and keep your existing driveshaft: this yoke Works fine on our MJs.

What year and model we talking about here Bear?

:agree: Keep the rear prop valve as long as it's working correctly, especially if you'll be hauling any loads. There's nothing "inferior" about them; it's just old and you can't get them anymore. If and when mine gives it up, I'll plump in a Toyota or similar load sensing valve. The only thing you'll have to do is fab a longer rod equal to the amount of lift you install. Pretty easy to do if the old nylon ball sockets are still intact. :cheers:

That must be it then. The blue cases were Renix, the whites were HOs. The speedos, fuel gauges, and tachs are different between the two and the only ones I worked with for my 91 were the white cases. If the HO cases had the monting posts for the shift indicator I would have done it the same as you did. :D Any chance you could post a pic? I might be able to adapt the older style case with the newer gauges using the HO printed circuit foil. Thanks - learned something here. :cheers:

Common problem with the dash rocker switches Jim. It's caused by contact corrosion. Next time you have your dash bezel off, pull the switch panels and douche the switches with some good contact cleaner and work them a bit. The indicator lights start to work again, and the switch may actually switch consistently. :cheers:

Autometer makes single and double pillar gauge pods for our trucks, but not a triple, AFAIK. :D Is there a seam between each gauge housing?

Looks good. Spokes, do you have three single pods mounted, one double and a single, or what? Have never seen a triple gauge pod for our junk. :cheers:

Here some pics of the gauge shell for the full six gauge clusters. I have about twenty of these, both the Renix and HO shells, and none of them have the mounting posts or any provisions at all for the shift indicator behind the tach, as the non-full gauge clusters do. Rookie, I'd like to see some pics of a full gauge shell with the shift indicator mounts if you can provide. Image Not Found Image Not Found

You got that right Sam. :thumbsup: