HOrnbrod

Also agree w. the above. But if the fuel pump ground is intact, check out these two threads - may help: http://www.comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=15819&p=159628&hilit=relay+fuel+pump#p159628 http://www.comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=6977&hilit=relay+fuel+pump

The column shift and the floor shift cables are completely different on the shifter ends. While the tranny ends are the same (they both attach to the same gear shift lever with a ball/socket joint), the floor shift cable has another socket joint end on it while the column shift cable has a shaft end. If you have a shaft end on one end of your cable, it's for the column shifter. BTW, how long is your cable? I'd like to find a column shift cable 2"-3" longer than my stock one as it's kind of tight now wrapping around the larger dual diaphram booster on the firewall.

My local Ace didn't have the rod ends, but the bigger Ace in the next town did. Follow up: We had a some rain yesterday, and I brought the old girl to a nearby abandoned parking lot and played with the bias adjustment. With no load the fronts lock up just before the rears. I adjusted it longer about 1/4", and the rears lock up with the fronts, and the braking feels better. I had no idea the arm position height was so sensitive, but it works as expected.

With my pre-stroker stock engine, I had some pretty bad blow-by problems. I did just as you ask, replaced the hoses with the late model larger rear front and rear hoses and retained my alum cover w. the tower vents. The fittings on the alum cover are either 1/4 turn to lock, or push through a grommet. I opted for the grommet fittings as I think they give a better seal. The larger hoses did completely cure the blowby for me. I am still using this setup on my stroker too. I can not speak for the full vent design in the steel cover as Jeff did, never tried it, but mine's doing just fine as is. I wanted to retain the cast aluminum cover as it's a good candidate for powder coating, polishing, or whatever. :D

Yep. that's the cast aluminum cover for the 91+ HOs. BUT it will work on your Renix, they all had the same 16-hole mounting . Looks pretty clean too. :D The problem is you have to have the HO hoses that go with it, the correct brass adapter fittings for the intake manifold for the larger HO hoses, and use newer gasket correct for this cover (it doesn't have the steel spacers). JeffMJ modded one of the 97+ steel covers w/o the towers on his Renix and it appears to have cured his blow-by problems. Either the late model steel of cast aluminum covers will work on a Renix, but you need all the hoses, intake manifold adapter fittings, and correct gasket for either one to fit correctly. EDIT: Here's Jeff's post: http://www.comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=12871&hilit=valve+cover

If you mean was a full 6-gauge cluster ever manufactured that has the built-in shift indicator, the answer is no for any year. The column shift XJ's were retained uo to 96 on the police packages, and some 91-92 MJ also had column shift indicators; I have one. But none w. the cluster shift indicator were full gauge clusters. There are several work-around mods to retain the OEM shift indicator or add an aftermarket indicator that the guys have posted links for.

What fans are you running and what's the actual combined CFM? Most aftermarket fan manufacturers are wildly optimistic on their CFM ratings. Are they both shrouded close to the radiator? I tried several adaptions at first keeping my stroker cool with the two electric fans until I finally found the combination and installation that worked well.

:thumbsup:

See this thread: http://www.comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=17968

Oh crap. I blew that one................. :doh: In 'Bama they say Thank Gawd for Mississippi or Alabama would be rated last in everything. :cheers:

HellCreek's real name is...............................Tom. Excellent guy to deal with; not just a marketeer like some on this forum (no names mentioned but y'all know who I am referring to), very knowledgable, w. no faults that I know of except that he's from Looseiana. :D Seriously, check his stuff out. All good.

Very very nice. Would love to find a comparable Waggy like this one down here. If you change your mind about the front conversion for your MJ, you know where to reach me. :cheers: Have you considered the 97+ front end? :D If I can not find a nice Waggy, I will prolly go that way.

Yeah, I'll bet you're lovin' them after they swept the BoSox 4-straight. :( The Yanks are definitely the class of the AL East (and MLB too) at the moment. The Sox are back in Fenway against the Tigers tonight so hopefully they'll turn the tide. :thumbsup: PLEASE!!! :cheers: Yeah, I know we're off-topic.................. EDIT: Sox win, Yanks lose. :D Sox picked up a game. :banana:

Good work - glad you got 'er done. :cheers: Those coincidence things can drive you crazy. How about the factory el-cheapo braided ground strap from the back of the head bolt to the firewall? I also replaced that one with a cable since a lot of stuff uses the firewall for grounding. :D

No worries Willy - it only gets worse as you get older. :doh: :D

I know a lot of y'all have junked the rear load sensing valve - I haven't since mine still is doing it's job. If your existing rod from the valve arm to the diff cover is gone or is toast, here's how to make a new one that's adjustable. This is similar to how Toyota does it on their trucks. Also, if you have lifted your rig, the rod must be lengthened by the same amount as the lift to regulate the rear brake bias properly. I made a new non-adjustable one when I did my lift, but I didn't like it and wanted to fine tune the rear brake bias if I needed to. Parts needed for the adjustable rod are two aluminum 1/4"x28 LH spherical threaded rod ends w. studs, a length of stainless 1/4"x28 LH threaded rod, and four 1/4"x28 stainless nuts, washers, and lock washers. I got all the stuff at my local Ace hardware for about $15. First pop off the old rod and unscrew the ball-end fittings from the diff cover bracket and valve arm: Old rod and ball ends: Assemble the new hardware. I cut the threaded rod off (about 7" long) so that the arm was parallel with the axle when the threaded rod was screwed into the spherical rod ends all the way. This allows about 1-1/2" of adjustment out of the ends to increase the length of the rod and adjust the rear brake bias if necessary: Fully installed: Optional: After you get the rod adjusted correctly, cover the threads with a piece of stainless steel tubing for protection. Looks prettier too. Now go find a wet parking lot and do some smoke tests to see how the front and rear brakes lock up and adjust to your preference. :cheers:

Yes it's true. Both my 91 2WD MJ and a 2WD 92 XJ I had have the one-piece hub/rotor. The parts manual confirms this. 93 was the change year. Your 91 2WD must have been changed out to 93+ knuckles/hubs and rotors, or it's a prototype of some kind. Got any pics? Because I'd like to do this at some point in time.

Aye, they be very hard to find decent. :(

Thanks Rob, but I've always loved the XJ Waggy front end. To me much better than the 97 XJ+ or (barf) Chinese 2500 swaps. But that's just moi. :cheers:

Me either. :hmm: I doubt if the cops here have a clue either. :D I always used the white city lights in the Benz's, but wanted to try something different for the MJ.

It's pretty easy actually. :cheers: Thanks for refreshing my memory.

If you decide for some reason not to do the clip swap, I'd drive up there and take the parts off your hands in a heartbeat. Been looking for a good Waggy donor for years and no can find. :cheers:

I did? Where? :hmm:

All 2WD MJs - One Piece Rotor (solid rotor and hub) All 4WD MJs - Separate rotor and hub 1993 was the change year when all XJs received the same rotor.

Here's a good place to start: http://www.angelfire.com/my/fan/stroker.html