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HOrnbrod

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Everything posted by HOrnbrod

  1. You ride moto Wahoo?
  2. It will be darker due to the original paint fade. I used the OEM paint on my new cowl hood (the body paint was only four years old and was always garaged), and it was noticibly darker, not bad, but visible looking closely. Metallics are hard to match. Complete all the body work, entirely, then paint the whole thing. :cheers:
  3. Paid $2K, and it came w a new single bike trailer, a lot of used and new factory spare parts, and new MZ and Rotax manuals. This bike also had a sidecar option and I found one, pristine, for $200 if I want to drive drive down to Miami to pick it up. I think I will. :cheers:
  4. Me too Mr. Wildman. :waving:
  5. http://www.tellico4x4.com/categories_zones.php/abz_id/111
  6. :yes: Sounds like that's what CW's saying. Congrats on the cluster odo rollover. :cheers:
  7. I'm pretty sure the the D35 C-clip axles started in 1990.
  8. Wade, I'll be very happy to take care of it for you during the winter and make sure it gets plenty of exercise. :cheers: EDIT: All the more reason this thing is a gem. :D
  9. The modern resurgent Triumph Daytona is a 675 triple, and is based on the older 600cc TT600 4-banger. Nice bikes, though not for me - too complicated. The original 60's Daytonas were 500cc twins; now that one I'd like. But I've always liked the simplicity and sound of a big 4-stroke thumper. My first 4-stroke thumper was a BSA 441cc Victor. I loved that bike, despite the fact that it broke my foot twice kicking back when starting and it's unique self changing oil feature. 3/4 of the oil would automatically drain itself on your garage floor if it sat for a month or so. :cheers: The Rotax singles are great engines and are bulletproof w. minimal maintenance. They can be bored and stroked up to 700cc's. :eek: On my 300lb. bike, it'll fly. Rotax replacement and performance parts are readily available since these engines are/were used in snowmobiles, PWC's, and ultralight aircraft too. This is going to be a fun build, and have located a vendor in Miami who has lots of new and used MZ bike parts, as these bikes are still very popular in Cuba. BTW, anyone have anything powered with a Rotax engine?
  10. Yep, they must have pulled out all the stops in 91-92. Knew about the LWD Elims, but not the Hunter Green paint. You gotta restore that thing back to pure pure stock Wade even if it takes years. Then only drive it in the summer, or move south. A piece of Jeep MJ history that's only going to increase in value. :cheers:
  11. Usually two letters and a number. Like my code is PS7. Then you can look it up on a Mopar site and see what color the original is.
  12. Lead, that looks like an old twin Navion in the background. I had a few hours in one of those back in the day. :cheers:
  13. The #5 - #8 digits (reading left to right) on the 2nd line of the plate is the primary paint code. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 X X X X X X X Reason I'm asking is that I didn't think they made HO Elims in green.
  14. This person has been given chance, after chance, after chance. On any other forum after all the good folks he has insulted and cheated with his constantly repeated asinine excuses, his character set would have been recognized and he would have been banned, dumped, sheite-canned long ago. Amazing patience and tact have been shown by club members trying to resolve their transactions with this guy, and only after forum public exposure has this person responded w. more of the same lame excuses. And amazingly, some members still make excuses for him. :nuts: Hopefully he has banned himself off into the sunset, never to be heard from again, the CC will be better off w/o this bad apple. Just sorry for the folks he has burned.
  15. What's the paint code on the firewall plate Wade?
  16. Yes, it's almost the same color gray. I was trailering it home from TN last week taking it easy and a long column of Harleys came by on the Interstate all yelling and hollering and pointing. Guess they liked it.
  17. Low slung narrow bikes, usually 4-stroke thumpers, originated by the Brits back in the 60's, on Triumphs, BSAs, Matchless, Vincents, and other Brit models. Basically solo naked bikes designed to get from point A to B fast. Kick start mostly in the early days. Many interpretations have been built over hte years, including some (ugh) Jap bikes. Link: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Caf%C3%A9_racer Had quite a few in the past, mostly BSA's, and to moi they are truly fine. :cheers: But this MZ has an electric start (and a kick start for emergencies) and other modern conveniences, w/o the oil leaks, and will make a super cafe racer w/o a whole lot of work.
  18. Aye - you come from good stock SW2. A WW2, Korea, and Nam vet. Must have been a hell of a guy. :USAflag:
  19. Thanks - love the retro stuff. :cheers:
  20. Picked up this super rare East German 95 MZ Silver Star, plans are to convert to an old school cafe racer. Got a little chrome on it too. :D Had a couple of BSA and Triumph cafe's before - time to get back in the game since the MJ is basically where I want it for now. This bike's been sitting for over three years, picked it up for cheap, and got it up and running after a couple of weeks work. Has the bullet-proof 4-stroke 502cc Rotax thumper w. 5-speed. It had electrical problems and pure varnish throughout fuel system, along w. other problems as usual w. bikes that have been sitting this long, but is running great now. Cafe cosmetic time now. :cheers: Image Not Found
  21. Hey Blue; You the same guy I discussed the two electric fan mod at length with on NAXJA? No longer needed anymore?
  22. Another tasteless bastid shows his ignorance. :D Anyhow Fiat, I have no idea mate and can offer no help. I just wash the old girl once a month or so, and wax annually with whatever wax I have at the time. Hopefully some detailers can chime in on this with some good recommendations. :cheers:
  23. Measure the charging voltage across the battery w. the engine running at about 1.5K RPM. Should read at least 13.3VDC.
  24. Drilling out those rivets goes much easier if you tap out the rivet center pin first with a drift punch. Then drill out w. a 1/4" bit. :thumbsup:
  25. This happened to me too, and is exacerly the reason I dumped the water control valve and went with the 1997+ design that does not use them. It's a crappy design but fortunately an easy fix Wade-man. Sorry about your Grandfather too SW2.
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