HOrnbrod

This wheel will work, but you will need the wire (5200 0745) and damper (5200 3757) for the horn. If the dealer can't get them, maybe at a yard. I can send you a diagram if you'll send an email addy. :cheers:

The Saints were outgained x2+ in rushing and passing yards, BUT had five freekin' takeaways. Their defense takes advantage of every opportunity and have been doing this all year consistently. I gotta go with the WHO DAT over the Colts. :cheers:

Yeah, but I got my hitch for $120 shipped. :D http://www.comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=6478&p=62780&hilit=hitch+ebay#p62780

I'm really not either, but it's been a super game and is now in O/T. Favre had a chance to put it away till he threw the pick. Gotta go with the Saints now.

Specs on the U-Haul hitch are: Model #:75021 Application: Jeep Comanche pickup (with factory installed step bumper only) Long Box, Short Box 2WD, 4WD I have one installed w. the factory bumper. I think you will run into fitment problems w. aftermarket bumper brackets as the hitch brackets are made to fit snugly to the outboard factory bumper bracket bends at the bumper bolts. It may require some shimming.

The two spoke XJ/MJ steering wheel's last year was in 1990, so I'm not sure which steering wheel you are referring to?

NOS MJ tail lamps are still around. I just found a new left side lamp (black stripe) from a dealer in TX for $72. Unfortunately they didn't have the right side to go with it.

Fastenal has the idler puller bearings ($2.08/ea) and there's a slew of them on Fleabay too. Just do a search for 6203-2RS, common bearing. Just press a new one in. To be sure of the p/n first use some 0000 steel wool on the idler pulley bearing face and the p/n should be visible. Just to eliminate any Jeep "inconsistancies". :cheers:

Yes, that's usually how it's done; holding the shaft w. vicegrips. Some shocks also have a flat on the shaft up near the top you can get an open end wrench on. And use antiseize on the new ones so they'll come out easier next time. :D

.875 (7/8") x 18tpi for the stock TREs.

Pickup an HO cast aluminum valve cover w. the fittings at the yard, clean it up inside (the towers and the CCV valve), and bolt it on to your Renix. Then get the late model vacuum hoses as detailed HERE. This will cure your blow-by problems as long as it's not being caused by something else, like piston rings.

Crap - Ibby is correct. Missed the 01. :doh: But keep this in mind on a non-starting condition for the 99 and below models. The ASD relay for these models (91-99) is in the PDC. Happened to me and was hard to find. :cheers:

Which relay did you bypass? The fuel pump relay or the ASD (auto shutdown) relay? Both have to be latched for starting. When starting the engine the ASD relay latches and looks for the distributor to spin. If not, the ASD relay trips and cuts power to the + coil and the fuel pump. You can test the ASD relay by running +12V from the battery directly to the coil pos terminal. This will also backfeed 12V to the fuel pump through the ASD circuit. If the pump runs, the ASD relay is bad. If not, the pump itself, fuel pump relay, or the wiring is fubar.

So much for the Kennedy non-legacy. Hopefully the voter turnout by the good people of Mass and their vote results spoke out against the Kennedy's dubious track record as well as the current administration.

Okay. Thought it was a Ural. :cheers:

All true. If the speed sensor ain't right in an OBDI, limp mode maximus. Unfortunately he still ants too much. Off topic - I'm about to enter the sidecar world - what you got in your avatar jeepcoma? :D

It's all in what you want to do with your rig. In stock form w. no mods just for use as a d/d, I'd consider a Renix if someone gave me one. But I'd never buy one because of the hodgepodge of antiquated sensors on the Renix, all of which interact with each other and can affect starting, ignition, idling, mileage, and performance in different and non-consistent ways. When the Renix is right, it's okay, but there's no usually no rhyme or reason to troubleshoot it logically especially when there are multiple sensors involved, and it usually ends up easter-egging sensors one after the other to fix it. I've had plenty of both, and for me troubleshooting the OBDI 91+ HO is cake compared to the Renix. 1996 and above OBDII I don't like either. If you want to build or stroke a 4.0, forget the Renix. Too many problems with the intakes, heads, exhaust headers, etc. Just doesn't make good sense. :D

Thanks Bob - thought so. I'll fab something up to cover the slot. Need that space flat so I can mount an Audi Homelink transmitter. :D

Ah Pete-man. We always agree to disagree. :cheers:

And HOs are better. :popcorn:

Yep, and you may as well get used to it. Mopar has stopped selling most all XJ/MJ parts now, so it will only get worse. A lot of the NOS parts that were snapped up by privateers from belly-up dealers turn up on Ebay and other venues quite a bit. Even if I don't need the part at the time, I'll get it if it's a good buy and a high failure item. :D

I got this single bike trailer for $200 when I bought my last MZ. It has 14" wheels, leaf springs, and will handle a bike up to 800#. It's a kit trailer, has 14" wheels (don't know the bolt pattern), and was basically new, although dirty from sitting in a barn. If you need details let me know. I've hauled quite a few big pig bikes around a lot with this guy w. no problems. Image Not Found

Welcome aboard. Here's how to tell how far off you are from new factory height: COMANCHE STOCK HEIGHT Front: Measure from top of axle tube to underside of frame rail, inboard of the coil spring. Do NOT measure from the diff housing or shift motor housing. 2WD models should be 6-3/4" plus or minus 1/2". 4WD models should be 7-3/4" plus or minus 1/2". Rear: Measure the vertical distance between the top of the axle tube and the underside of the frame rail inboard of the jounce bumper. 2WD models should be 8.2" plus or minus 1/2". 4WD models should be 9.2 inches plus or minus 1/2". :cheers:

Bet the civilian versions are a bit quieter than the military rigs. But I love 'em, they pulled my bacon out of the fire several times especially in weather when no one else would fly except the Marines. The Navy, USAF, and Army would say hey, a front's coming in, can't fly. The Jarheads would say, okay when do you need to go. I'm ex-Navy, and it pains me to admit this. :bowdown: Sounds like a great way to earn a living Dirt-man keeping these old birds flying and safe. :cheers:

Gotta agree with that. I can't wait to see the drama over the off season w. Jerry Jones and the Cowgirls. I'll have to go with the Vikes over the Saints as much as I like the Saints. And would love to see the Jets take out Manning and the Colts too, but don't see that happening. :cheers: