HOrnbrod

Understand. I spent lots of time in various US, ROK, and RP Army and Marine 205 military versions getting work crews and equipment to remote mountain-top microwave sites in Korea, the Philippines, and "other" locations. Noisy birds, but super reliable and real workhorses, even in typhoons. :eek: Many many still in service as I'm sure you know. :cheers:

I can't make it out in the above pics. It's an yellow/orange colored connector that breaks out of the main harness under the dash and it's directly above the accelerator pedal. If you can't eyeball it I'll take a pic tomorrow.

Dirty, doesn't your employer cover this training? Or at least part of it?

After three one-sided games this weekend, we finally have a barn burner going on with the Jets and the Chargers. And this was the one game I thought would be a SD slaughter. I'm glad I don't bet on the NFL............. :brows:

Looking for the one for an MJ w/o the slot for the XJ ebrake lever.

Keep dreaming mate, and I hope your dreams come true. :cheers: I'm glad I got my Hesco engine before the prices went through the roof, but their basic stroker is very adaptable and responds well to bolt-on options (intake, headers, manifolds, chips, AW4 mods, etc.) that are a far more economical way to gain more HP/Torque than the Avenger. I'm happy w. what I have, but I sure wouldn't turn down that blower if it fell in my lap somehow. :D

I have no idea what a powermaster's 190A is. As with any high amp load (halogens, electric fans, etc.) they should be be relay activated, and the stock wiring used only to trigger the relay coil. Standard automotive relays are normally rated for 30A-40A loads.

Sounds like you got the Laredo door panels? :needpics: :D

Negative. Depending on the system load, the alt will only put out enough amps to keep the battery charged within the voltage regulator HI-LO settings. Issues start when more system load is added (i.e. 10KW headlamps and driving lights, winches, ghetto stereo amps, other power-hungry accessories, etc.). This added load requires more amps through the stock wiring that it was never engineered to handle, thus wire frying could result. If your overall system load stays the same, no problems. :cheers:

Why? You can pickup the 136A NipponDenso alt for cheap at the yard from these Mopar vehicles: 1997-1998 Dodge B.Series Van 1997-1998 Dodge Dakota 1998 Dodge Durango 1997-1998 Dodge Ram Pickup 1997-1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee as well as others. PN:56027913. All you need to do is wire in an external voltage regulator for it; the provisions are on the alt for this. There are several writeups on NAXJA and other Jeep forums for doing this on a Renix.

:D Hey, you have to Bob to communicate. When I first moved here all I said was Huh? Huh? Say What?? :cheers:

Dayem - the Saints sure put a whippin' on the Cards today. :eek: I think Warner retires during the off-season.

That's a legitimate Bama-speak contraction Jim. Perfectly legal. A few other examples include: we all - we'uns he is - haze I have - Ah've that there - attair isn't it? - idinit? much obliged - muchablige over there - ovair tire irons - tar arns did you hear? - ju-here?

I don't give a damn what your opinion is mate. Y'all want to text go join a chat forum somewhere.

For some dumbass reason I couldn't dicyfer what you were talking about at first Jake. Put me down for a set. These could also be adapted to the front bulb sockets using the right punches? Si?

Cool. We're not chattin' here mate. But you are right: Jeep People Rock. :cheers:

bummer :dunno: Not really, it's not needed. The HO ECU is fully capable of refining the A/F ratio at altitude, unlike the limited Renix system computer that is wholly external sensor dependent. :D

NOT! I know you have good skills too Jeff by eyeballing your garage thread, so you'll have to earn your keep too mate. I'll drink beer and stupidvise while you guys do all the work. Deal?? :brows: :brows:

What's ppl?? :???:

Warm! This is the first day the temp went over freezing in two weeks. Very cold for down here mate. My lake out back is frozen over solid and the Canadian geese and mallards are walking around looking an open water spot to feed in. Gus my Cocker Spaniel was out running around chasing them on the ice yesterday having a good time. I've never seen the lake freeze over like this before. And yeah, I know the tailgates are expensive, but they're available and someone might want a new one. hard to find nowadays. I'll pay for your trip down here mate, but you'll have to work for your keep. I need new windows, doors, etc. installed, and the wife wants a damn greenhouse addition. She'll feed you good and I'll provide all the Miller High Life you can inhale. Deal??? :brows: :brows:

Not these Bob. Just figured someone could use one up in the Rust Belt. :cheers: But I'm pretty sure I've located a stash of NOS MJ OEM tail lights though. :brows:

Part Number 57000890. I've bought body parts from this outfit and never had a problem. Aftermarket, but it all fit. http://www.iautobodyparts.com/jeep/

Grab the steering box. It has a quicker ratio (12.7:1) vs. the 14.1:1 MJ box. Bolt-in too. But since it's a 4.0 the sway bar and tie rod won't do you any good. :D

The WHT/BLK/GRN is just a 3-conductor 12AWG piece of power cable I used from the left kick panel to the right door. The splices in the right door are to the OEM pigtail wires for the power window rt. door switch. The colors of these wires are represented by the circles within the switch.

I installed power windows but did not use the factory crossbody harness, I made up my own from the fuse panel out. Answers: 1. The 12AWG TAN wire is power. Needs to be fused on a hot 25A source. The ground is the BLK/GRY wire in the left kick panel. 2. I had no plug, I don't think it's there w/o factory power windows. I installed an aux fuse panel for the H4s, power windows, fogs, etc. and picked it up there. 3. You only need 3 wires crossbody for the windows. 2 more if you're adding power locks. I can send you a wiring diagram if you need it.