HOrnbrod

Hers's how I did it: http://www.comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=17120&hilit=vacuum

The drain plug sets about 3/8" above the floor of the pan, so you won't get much info by peering in. Stick a telescoping magnet in the hole and probe around; it will pick up any loose ferrous material that's in there. Might give you a clue if you have to go deeper. :D

It's possible, but if you douche down the dipstick joint up real good beforehand w. PB Blaster, it will usually come apart by twisting back and forth carefully efore trying to separate it. I haven't broken one yet. :eek: Just replace the o-ring on reassembly. As mvusse suggests, you can not change all the fluid as there is no drain plug on the converter, stupid engineering, so you could bring it a tranny shop w. a suck and blow machine. But I'd like to see what's in the bottom of the pan first.

I'd pull the pan at least to eyeball for metal shavings. If okay, do the fluid/filter change - can't hurt in the condition it's in. But the symptoms really sound like a shot torque converter mate. :(

It's possible I guess Paul - but finding a loaded hinge that will mate w. the firewall and hood brackets and hood could be difficult. Might be easier to hinge the hood from the front. Long ago I saw a universal kit to convert a Jeep hood (among others) to open from the rear, but can not find now. I have a complete set of Greenlee chassis punches w. the hydraulic ram (left over from my Navy days :D ) that could nibble out about a 3/8" semi-circle from the cowl lip overhang that would be plenty enough to clear the left post. It would hardly be noticeable, but I just have to built up the nads to give it a go. :eek: It's just one of those annoying little things that kind of gnaw at ya...........

Dayem, that's better than Wisconsin prices and it's not a rust bucket either. :cheers:

Congrats! You now have one of the few.

Crap, was hoping for a cure. Maybe Paul can come up with one - I'm out of ideas short of cutting the cowl back. :eek:

Hey, you're a Jersey guy - you know what to look for. Rustus Maximus. :cheers:

""life's tough, but it's tougher when you're stupid." John Wayne" :rotf:

Mine do that now on my 91. :hmm: I'm just looking for a miracle cure to prevent my cowl hood from hitting the right wiper post when fully open. :???:

So what good do the 97+ wiper arms do Matt? First I've heard of this. :dunno:

For Renix era remove the aux fan relay which is mounted to left inner fender panel. Using a jumper wire with an In-line 25 amp fuse, supply battery voltage to terminal 4 of the relay connector. If fan operates, the motor is good. If fan motor does NOT operate, check for continuity between terminal 4 of the relay connector and body ground connections on the fender panel back from the relay connector. If continuity exists exists replace the fan motor. If continuity is not found repair the open and retest.

Mine was made by Drawtite. :dunno:

Back in 87-88 just the bumper faceplate was $245 according to my crash manual, so that's not to bad a price considering the scarcity and you ge the brackets, endcaps, etc. Hey Jim, you could always paint it. :D EDIT: That chrome bumper would look simply maaavelous on your black Grandpa MJ Jim. :cheers:

You can usually tell the AAL from the original leafs by the way the ends are cut - they don't normally match.

The only way I see this happening (if it's the original axle) is if the spring centering pins have sheared off at the axle and allowed it to shift to the side through loose u-bolts. I'd loosen up the u-bolts and make sure the centering pin "nub" is in the axle hole and not broken.

Who says there were not any of these left? :cheers: Item number: 160399233934

Hey, I guess I can't complain Paul since she's keeping her grades up and the Air Force is paying most of her bills in Tuscaloosa. I had a pristine baby blue 1988 Mercedes 300CE similar to this one I was going to give her for college, but she wanted the stupid Mustang. :nuts: And Gus is cool too...... Good luck w. the new Mazda; it looks good. :cheers:

I like it but the son doesn't care for it. I guess it's the generation gap at play here. I told him he had to leave it because it would leave holes that would leak if we took it off. :cheers: Aw, what do kids know. Most of them are clones concerned with image only. :nuts: If Dad be paying the bills, my kids better like it or they be walking the shoe leather express. :fs1: My daughter at UAH is driving a 07 Mustang. I hate all Mustangs built after 1966. It's not terribly difficult to see old Dad isn't getting his way around here. :(

Errr, remove the seat belts, unbolt the brackets from the floor pan, lift up over the floor studs, then slide it out a door with a helper?

Roger. It fooled me. That visor looks good on the Ford. :thumbsup:

Hey Paul; What's with the rear wheel not centered in the wheel well on the newly commissioned D/D? Looks to be too far aft. :hmm:

Hang in there mate. Do whatever your told - no arguments. :D You know MJs as well or better than anyone here, but you don't know the best way to "upgrade" you own self as well as they do. :cheers:

Yep, that's a regulation export RHD Euro cluster. It (the speedo) can be easily retrofitted into a 91-96 US HO model by creative jumper wiring on the back of the cluster and drilling a couple of new mounting holes for the speedo gauge mounting. But to mount in an 88 cluster you would have to swap out the mechanical speed sensor on the tranny tailpiece or t-case (4WD) for the electronic sensor. It's doable in an HO fairly easily, but very difficult in a non-HO because the cluster cable pinouts are very different - lots of rewiring and would be a major PITA. And the fuel and tach gauges are completely different physically and in how they are wired. EDIT: That pic looks like a cut-and-paste from Gojeep's site. Or do you have this cluster in-hand?