HOrnbrod

Tough game. Congrats Canada. Y'all deserved that one. :Canadaflag:

Anyone watching the Canada/USA gold medal hockey game? Holy crap, the US tied it up in the last twenty seconds of regulation and it's headed for sudden death O/T. I kinda figured this game was going to be like this. :cheers:

Speaking about old hands we haven't heard from in awhile - anyone hear from TNT?

Yes. An old guy in town has a 88 Laredo he bought new from our local dealer. It's up on blocks in his driveway. He's too old to drive anymore, it's mostly beat to crap w. sheet metal damage (low mileage though). He ordered it new w. a factory 4.10 D44 rear. But he won't sell it, and it will just sit there forever. :(

Yep, it's that simple. Just do the drop in and rip out or don't do it at all. Just end this pointless thread..............

The oil pressure gauge and sender are easy enough to check. Turn IGN switch to RUN, disconnect the wire from the sender and measure the voltage at the wire connector. It should read approx. 7.5 VDC. If not, you have an open circuit from the gauge cluster. If the voltage is okay, the sender is bad. :cheers:

Yes.

No shell is going to fit perfectly except the factory Leer or Brahma shell. Below are the dimensions of the LWB MJ and the 93 and below S10. The SWB will be the same except shorter of course. If you can't find one Comanche specific, the S10 is the closest. I had an S10 camper shell on mine a few years ago, and researched them pretty well. It fit the bed perfectly, but was a couple of inches lower than the cab rooline, and angled in a bit more than the MJ's cab lines. The dimensions are close but not the same. It looked good, but not like a factory shell.

Off topic: Jim, are you awful big or is that horse small? Or is it just an optical illusion? :D

You're welcome. Something is causing that connector to get hot like that, like maybe upgraded H4 headlamps w/o running them through a relay?

Do a search for AIRTEX Part # 1P1190. That's the headlight switch connector you need. RockAuto carries them among others. I knew I'd seen these somewhere...........

The connector uses 1/4" standard female spade connectors, so if you can't find one you could easily terminate the wires individually and use heat shrink. Just a thought............

The 90 XJ & MJ vent valves have the same part numbers, so I'd say yes. :cheers:

Yes, you have. :thumbsup:

Yeah, but guess what Tom. The 52003676 3+2 MT springs I purchased long ago (copies from another vendor) had 5/16" center pins. Everything else was correct according to your print (3-leaf w. 2 overloads, free arch, load, etc.) except the pins. I've since drilled them out and used 3/8" pins when I inserted shims for the lift. :hmm: I don't think anything is written in stone for these rigs Tom. :D

Don't install a Reflexxion cowl hood then. The hood won't open past 45 degrees unless you pull off the right wiper arm. :fs1:

Of course there's always a way. Have you crawled under yet to inspect the wiring going into the tank, check for good 12V power and ground, and/or pulled the sender/pump assembly out of the tank yet? It's not going to fix itself mate. :cheers:

Good to hear that. Keep your promise to only sell to your local yokels and don't get your a$$ overloaded with too many projects again. Just some friendly advice to prevent future problems. :cheers:

The 93-98 ZJ boxes are the same 3-bolt Saginaw mounting. Someone wrote it's a "better" ratio. The ZJ boxes have a quicker ratio than the stock boxes 12.7:1 vs. 14.1:1). The quicker ratio is much better on the highway, but maybe not if you use your rig primarily off-road pushing bigger tires.

Usually the center pin for the standard XJ/MJ springs are 5/16". The HD springs (Up-Country, Metric Ton), etc. are 3/8". But throughout the years there were many optional spring packs offered, sometimes as many as 6-7 annually. :eek:

The 27-spline GM Turbo 350 yokes LIKE THIS ONE work fine too. They use the Spicer 1310 u-joints and you can get them up to 7" long and cut them off to whatever length you require. The inner yoke may require grinding though on driveshafts with a higher operating angle. I used one on my LWB to gain an extra 1-1/2". It's fully splined too. :D

CLICKY HERE

I've been using the OME 930 coils (together w. OME shocks) for about four years now. By using doubled up stock spring pads, the front lift was a mite over 3". And LEAD is exactly right saying: REMEMBER THAT THE COIL SPRING RATE DOES NOT DETERMINE 100% OF RIDE QUALITY!!! IT VARIES GREATLY BASED ON THE SHOCKS YOU RUN!!! NOT TO MENTION CONTROL ARM ANGLES!

OME coils and shocks. Expensive but handling and ride much improved. http://www.rocky-road.com/xjome.html

I have the stock 91 HO fuel pump and the Hesco HES9195FR adj. FPR. It comes pre-adjusted at 44PSI. I would definitely use the adj. regulator and try the 21# injectors first at the pre-adjusted pressure setting. I think this will be fine for your application. If you need more, you can always swap in a set of the grey tops after having them checked and cleaned, then fine tune the regulator. A good A/F meter is good to get the mixture correct. Here's a little blurb on injector sizing: Stroker engines require oversize injectors to provide adequate fuel flow rates and prevent pinging due to lean air/fuel mixtures. To calculate optimum injector size, use the following formula: Injector flow rate (lb/hr) = [Expected HP x 0.5 (BSFC)] / [no. of cylinders x 0.8 (injector duty cycle)] The actual injector flow rate from each injector depends on the fuel pressure (FP) in the injector rail. Most injectors have rated flows at 43.5psi fuel pressure. The actual flow rate from each injector is: Actual injector flow rate = Rated injector flow rate at 43.5psi x square root of (FP/43.5) This can get you in the ballpark, then hook up an A/F meter to get the mixture correct. :cheers: