HOrnbrod

Joop, as Jim says, nothing is written in stone concerning Jeep MJs. The factory "Metric Tonne" or "Big Ton" package was offered from 1987-1990. These were usually badged by a tailgate emblem or a sticker on the back cab glass. However, a lot of suspension/drivetrain (and other) options (D44, 5-leaf HD springs, HD shocks, etc.) were dealer installed, and usually had no badging. So since you have an 86, there will be no badging in any case since the package wasn't offered officially until 1987. Also, you have an export model. Some of the suspension/drivetrain options on the exports were standard equipment while on the domestic models they were optional. So your AMC-20 diff and 4+1 springs may be standard equipment for the 86 Scandianian exports. Every country they were exported to had different equipment installed, even special parts unique to the country, like side markers, different color lamps, etc. :hijack: Saw on another post you're a Volvo lover - me too. But my favorites were the PV 544s and the 122s. I had many many of them, and the popular swap for me was the B20 engine w. Webers. I love the 544s and supposedly they were designed from the US 1939 Mercurys. Here's a video you might enjoy:

I'm not Tom Wahoo :D , but I suspect these are similar in specs to the stock MJ 4+1 (overload leaf) p/n 52001825 built w. additional arch over the stock MT springs to guarantee the 4" lift. The arch on the stock MT 4+1 springs was about 9". I would think these would ride hard unloaded. I used the 3+2 MT stock springs w. the stock arch specs that netted about 2-1/2" lift, then used TeraFlex shackles to get another 1/2" to equal the front w. the OME 3" lift coils. I thought this was a better way to go since 90% of the time I don't carry a load and wanted to retain the ride quality. I can carry about 1K lbs. before any sag appears. And they ride very nice unloaded. Tom, correct me if I'm wrong, but by all logic it would seem if MT springs built w. additional arch would naturally ride hard unloaded. Of course I may be AFU on this too......... :cheers:

http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/Engine/Basic_Sensors_Diagnostics.htm

Easier way is to simply strip off the black coating. It's polished stainless underneath. :D

Sorry to hear. But at least all this stuff can be had from an XJ.

I hesitate to respond to this Chico-san. Kind of hard to answer with the limited details you provided. :D For me I initiated it because there was nothing left. I lost everything through the efforts of her scumbag lawyer except the bills, then started again from scratch with a good non-American lady, and am now living happily ever after 20+ years later. And the original kid, my son, is my best friend. Sometimes change is good mate. Just takes time. :cheers:

I don't think it's the MAP sensor. Sounds like a vacuum leak - suggest trying these two checks. 1. Disconnect the brake booster vac line, plug it, then try. 2. Disconnect the EGR vac line and see if that makes a change in idle RPM.

Check to see if one side of the power steering pressure switch connector is grounded. On the 2.5's, this switch closes under pressure and sends a ground to the computer to kick up the idle. Or apply a ground manually to your version of pin 2 on the switch to see if the fast idle circuit even works.

Congrats. BUT, I have to say: :needpics: :cheers:

Love you too Darren. I'm beginning to understand your sense of humor. That's scary.................

Congrats congrats Freakman. :D Happy for ya, and stick with it. :cheers:

Yep - some guys have all the luck Rob. Damn you! :D Only kidding - congrats again. Do you know the ratio?

Are you aware that the Isuzu rear diff axle shaft size is 5 on 5" centers? Not a showstopper as the width is okay, but not that bolt-in "easy". I'm like easy too. :D

That's why people your age shouldn't be driving, especially at night. Pi$$ off mate.............

Definitely sounds like a fuel delivery problem - something's gummed up. Replace the fuel filter as Eagle says. If this doesn't cure it, check the fuel pump flow rate. Connect a hose (an A/C hose works well) to the rail test port and put the other end in a bucket. Pinch off the return line, and crank it over. A good pump should deliver at least one liter of fuel/min; you can try it for 15 seconds and do the math. If it does not, since you have already replaced the the fuel filter, the pump is defective (clogged) or the inlet sock in the gas tank is clogged (most likely cause). If you have good flow, the problem is most likely clogged injectors. Good luck. :D

I had to do the same thing. Instead of pulling the ignition cylinder, I pulled the cylinder off a side cover that uses the same key as the ignition. Told the locksmith it was my desk drawer lock cylinder. $10 and out the door. :D

It looks like you'll need the valves and the rubber grommets they squeeze into. It's like the vents on the valve cover. J536 0058, VALVE, Fuel Vapor J536 0059 SEAL, Vapor Valve http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Jeep-fuel-tank-roll-over-VALVE-and-GROMMET-new-OEM-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQitemZ310244267245QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

Good eye Paul. Fixed the left crooked lamp soon as I saw the pic. :D The lamps came from Riga, Latvia in exchange for some MZ motorcycle parts I had via an MZ forum. Even swap. Anyone need any MZ 500 parts? :D New factory bumper was from Ebay, $40, local pickup, was still in the factory box.

How true Paul. I love BJ auctions, and see some 40s-50s mostly Ford (and a rare GM or Chrysler pickup) going for decent $$, but only because they have 10 miles on them, were owned by a celebrity, or were a one of a kind factory model. I've never seen a Hudson or Studebaker pickup at BJ, and really doubt any MJ will ever grace a Barrett Jackson auction either. The mainstream collector public regards the MJ as an unimaginative Cherokee XJ spinoff, and that's basically what it was. An attempt by AMC trying to save itself from extinction. Unfortunately it didn't work.

Been having trouble seeing well driving at night even w. the H4 Hella head lamps and decided to upgrade. Over the last year or so I located a NOS pair of the original chrome 181 Hella driving lights along with a NOS factory bumper and it lit up my world. :eek:

If yall could spell and not cheep like a bird maybe ppl woulda read what u say. C'mon man. :shake:

Most Laredo MJs were made 87-89 primarily, although I've seen a couple of 90s. Most interior pieces of the XJ and MJ Laredo were the same (door panels, dash bezel, etc.) except for the MJ bucket seats that had a small piece of carpeting on the seat back to protect fraying the vinyl on the MJ cab back cab wall. The exterior body side moldings and emblems were the same too (just different lengths for the moldings). But the kicker like Jim says is that it's in the VIN. Even though I have a complete Laredo interior and can add the body side moldings and emblems, it will always be a clone because my VIN says so. :D I'd sure like to know exactly how many legal MJ Laredos the factory made as compared to other trim packages. I'm sure they are more rare than the Eliminators. Maybe the Chief was the rarest of all since they were only made in 87-88?

Factory cable with a Ford clevis. Image Not Found

Stick the 4D XJ buckets in there for now, it's not bad and beats the he!! out of the bench. But in the meantime keep an eye out for a donor 2d XJ. I had the 4D XJ buckets w. the large bolsters for a year or so before I found some buckets from a 2D. The upholstery was better on the 4D seats, so I swapped it to the 2D seats. Any buckets are better than the bench IMO, but the 2D folding seats are the best. :D