HOrnbrod

These are better: http://radesignsproducts.com/default.aspx

A new OE frame track bar bracket is history as you know - not available. Your best bet is a low mileage replacement from a junkyard XJ (up to 2001 will fit) or repair your existing bracket as Jim and others mentioned. If you can not do it yourself, pull the bracket and bring it to a local welding shop. Should not cost too much. I would not spend $$ on an aftermarket track bar/bracket kit as it may or may not work on your unlifted rig. :cheers:

Yes, this is true. I installed a new factory tranny cooler I picked up on Ebay. The holes are already there to mount the cooler in front of the condenser, and you simply unplug the existing return line quick disconnect under the oil pan and plug the cooler inline with the return line. You don't touch the in-rad cooler. In reality the in-radiator cooler's most important function is really to heat the tranny fluid in cold weather.

Eagle wants a situation report at 0800. Tell him that's to damn early. :D

Heatsoak is when a component gets hot and acts weird. For instance there was a factory recall awhile back concerning heatsoak on the #2 injector causing rough running and stalling. Jeep's fix was to place a heat shield between the exhaust manifold and injector rail. I believe this applied to the HOs only though. I put one on when I installed the 2000 intake manifold. Figured it couldn't hurt.

Lol. I usually can remember an interesting post I've read on CC and a key word or two so it makes the search easier. But normally I can't find my own butt either. :D

http://www.bc4x4.com/tech/2009/jeep-steering/

http://www.comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=18813&p=191866&hilit=headrest#p191866

Thanks Rob. I'll check it out tomorrow - hope it's still there. :cheers:

http://sandiego.craigslist.org/ssd/pts/2005347487.html :(

Nope, because it's stupid and could cause the accelerator pedal to stick and/or bind. :eek: I'd rather just adjust the slack out at the throttle body.

Ah yes, that's right - Renix. I'm sure you have seen this link: http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/Engine/Basic_Sensors_Diagnostics.htm but if not I'd test the TPS and CPS next. Can you "borrow" a compatible ECU to test with? It almost sounds like a heatsoak issue..........

I don't understand the 1.4V output with the engine running. It should be closer to 4.5V or so unless it wasn't warmed up enough to go into closed loop. Try changing the O2 sensor, run it for 3-4 minutes, then test the MAP output again. Oh, and be sure to use some sensor-safe anti-seize on the O2 sensor threads. :D -Don

The only way I know to test the O2 sensor is with an Air/Fuel (A/F) meter to verify it's doing it's job after startup to convert from open to closed loop. I'd say if you don't have an A/F meter, replace the O2 sensor since it's due anyhow. What's your gas mileage look like?

How did the plugs look when you changed them? All a relatively uniform color? Try a voltage output test on the MAP sensor. Maybe it's going back and forth between open and closed loop. When is the last time you changed your O2 sensor?

You don't need drop brackets or adjustable LCAs for a lift 3" or below. There is plenty of adjustment behind the stock LCAs to add additional shims to effectively lengthen the LCA enough and get the caster angle back to specs. You can make your own like the pic below or get them at the dealer for cheap. All it took to get my caster spot-on after a 3" lift was an additional 4mm shim on each side.

How was the fuel pump filter sock inside the tank when you replaced the pump? Dirty, gummed up? The inside of the tank could have lots of junk slowing fuel flow. Also do the rubber portions of the fuel pressure and return lines look okay? These hoses can collapse with age. Might check for a cracked ignition coil as it can cause similar symptoms.

Nice Rob. I just finished up a 12 x 14 shed for the lawn mowers, bikes, and used some left over cedar shakes for the roof. Now I know what to do use for the ridge cap. :D

Agree on the Gatorback belts. :cheers: Does it squeak at idle, at rev, turning on the A/C (if you have it), or all the above? Have you tried the poor mans 1/2" heater hose stethoscope to your good ear at each pulley? Had a similar problem; turned out to be a bad idler pulley bearing. Common bearing, easy fix. HTH.

Whoops - read before you type. :doh: Sorry, sneaking out now...........

Nope. Get them out if you can w/o breaking them then replace. Unless you enjoy drilling, tapping, etc. :nuts:

Just the usual. Douche them down liberally every day w. PB Blaster at least four days before you attempt surgery. Use a 5-point socket for the best grip, and hope for the best. :cheers:

Husqvarna manufacturers only their high end saws (359 & up) in Sweden (not Switzerland). American Yard Products (owned by Husqvarna) makes their low end saws now. I've been using Homelite saws for years and they go forever.

An old school 3/8" speed wrench with a long extension through the hole works well.

AAAARG. A lot of the SC players had the game of their lives, especially QB Garcia, but they'll be their normal mediocrity soon. :cheers: